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Zeiss Rapid Z basic question

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 11:50
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Optics GrassHopper
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I'm a novice shooter. I recently bought a Rapid Z 600 scope. I'm really confused with the whole 'zeroing the rapid-Z' process. My questions:
1. (real basic) Is my Magnification ring the 3-9 dial on the scope?
2. If I 'zero' the scope in for magnification of 3, will it working differently for say 9?
3. When I look up my ammo/altitude/load on the calculator, what it tells me matches almost exactly of what my scope already says (3=301, 4=404, etc). I'm just not sure why I have to do this excercise as you buy the Zeiss Rapiz-Z to match the caliber you're shooting - so what am I fine tuning?

Thanks - Very confused. :)
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 12:07
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X = 180 Y = 90 (X+Pyro)+(Y-Pyro) = ?

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The reticle in that scope is set in the second image plane. This means that while you magnify the image as you turn the power up, you are not magnifying the reticle. Since the reticle will always be the same size, the marks will only be accurate at one magnification. That is what the Zeiss calculator is for. Once you get your zero for the main crosshair, use the calculator to find out what magnification is correct to make the markings accurate for your load.
 
And yes the 3-9 dial is the magnification ring.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 12:29
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Optics GrassHopper
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Okay. What is the first steps to getting my 'zero' for the main crosshare? Thanks in advance.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 13:13
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Optics GrassHopper
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So is the idea of the 'zeroing' to determine what is the best magnification for your scope/particular bullet?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 13:21
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To zero is to set the scope to the point of impact for your rifle and ammunition at 200 yds.
Then by using the Zeiss ballistic calculator you determine the power setting that most closely matches the reticle size to the ballistic curve that resembles your rifle and load. This is approximate and will need to be fine tuned because no two rifles shoot exactly the same.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 13:49
sakomato View Drop Down
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Hey Nebraska
 
Tell us what caliber you are shooting, what bullet weight and speed OR what factory ammo you are shooting
 
And we will walk you through it
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 16:01
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Optics GrassHopper
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Thanks for your help... I using Winchester .270 WIN 130 GR. Power-point.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 16:25
sakomato View Drop Down
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From here
 
 
I get the 3060 fps velocity
 
from here
 
 
I get the .371 ballistic coefficient
 
Then on the Zeiss website using the RapidZ calculator, putting in the above information and zeroing at 200 yards, altitude of 1000 feet, 1.5" mounting height above bore and 59 degrees, I click
 
"SUBMIT DATA"
 
Nothing appears to happen but the online computer has stored your ballistics, then click
 
"Reticle Analysis Form"
 
Change the Maximum Power to 9 and click
 
"OPTIMIZE POWER"
 
It will show you a **New Operating Power** of
 
7.7
 
If you zero your rifle for 200 yards and set your scope power on 7.7 then the lines in your reticle should correspond to the listed yardages
 
Bar 3 - 304 yds
Bar 4 - 401 yds
Bar 5 - 503 yds
Bar 6 - 600 yds
 
If you are shooting at 100 yards then you should set your scope to hit 1.54" high as shown in one of the boxes at the top.
 
BTW, welcome to the OT forum.
 
 
 
 


Edited by sakomato - October/04/2009 at 16:27
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 16:27
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Nebraska, have you gone to the Zeiss website to check the Ballistic Calculator? It was very clear in the instructions. Ops got beat.

Edited by 3_tens - October/04/2009 at 16:29
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 17:46
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Optics GrassHopper
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Great information. Now help me apply it. So for my scope to be accurate with this ammo, I need to set it to a power 7.7; and moving the power up or down will make my hold-over incorrect.   I hunt in Western Nebraska where I need maximum magnifaction, but lets say I was in a wooded area where I only want a 3 magnifation (close shot). How would I accomodate for this?   
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 18:11
sakomato View Drop Down
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If you are in close cover then you don't need to hold over on the extended yardage bars, just use your crosshairs.
 
The crosshairs will always be zeroed for 200 yards no matter what power the scope is set on, 3 power, 7.7 power or 9 power.
 
Only set it on 7.7 power and use one of the lower bars if you are goint to take a long shot, like at 400 yards or more.
 
And I am of the opinion that it is always best to practice at the longer ranges if you intend to shoot game at those ranges.  There is a lot more to shooting at the longer ranges than just knowing where to hold your point of aim.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 19:39
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So, then is it accurate to say that the hold-over is only accurate for this cartidge if you have the magnification set on 7.7?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 20:52
sakomato View Drop Down
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Yes
 
Now, you could use a different bullet and change the power at which the reticle will fit.
 
For example if you used the Federal Premium 140 gr Accubond (ballistic coefficient .496, muzzle velocity 2950 fps), then the power you would set your scope on for long distance would be 8.56.  Which is so close to 9 power as to be interchangeable.  Then you wouldn't have to worry about what power you were on, just make your long shots on max power.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 20:56
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You can play around with it, zero at different ranges and what not.  Figure out what ammunition you need so that you can have the magnification set to a different number.  Go to the "Optimize Power" part and play with that.
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 21:01
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Remember you gotta do the information on your own and put the actual velocity your rifle gives, your altitude, your temp., your scopes measurement above the barrel, etc.  If you would actually shoot at 500 yards or more you can't just go by factory listed velocity.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 21:53
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Great information. What points do you use to measure scope height over the barrel? Or do you get that from the manufacture?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 22:23
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It depends on what mounts and rings you are using, after all mounted up just take a ruler to it and go from the middle of the bolt to the middle of the scope tube.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/04/2009 at 22:27
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Scope height does not make a huge difference in ballistics and is usually 1.5" to 1.6".  Except for the AR15 type of autoloaders where you have to mount the scope on ultra-high rings in order to get a sight picture.  If the scope has a 40 to 44 mm objective I just use 1.5" and if it has a 50 to 56 mm objective put in 1.6" in the calculator.  Nothing important there.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/16/2009 at 16:34
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Here is another suggestion that may make a little more sense for typical hunting situations (and one that will probably make the purists cringe).. "Zero" your load at 400yds on max power (and at the 400yd mark on the scope). Chances are if you are taking a 400 yard shot you want full magnification not 7.7.. Then shoot the rifle at 100,200,300,500, and 600 yds if possible and note the rise or drop as compared to where you were holding ( I like to shoot at least 3 rounds at each range and use the average). If it is excessive you can make a "Hold Card" to tape to your stock but my bet is your rise or drop will be well within the vital zone of a big game animal at all of the ranges on the scope and will allow you to take an ethical shot at long range without having to do mental gymnastics during the heat of the moment. The only thing to remember then is that the crosshairs are accurate at any range and any power setting and the drop compensating marks are more than accurate enough at the listed ranges at max power. Once you have that just take your rifle and go shoot a-lot of ammo at 300-600yds to increase your skill and confidence. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/16/2009 at 16:50
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Good info here, great actually. Neb. if u want to understand how these 2nd focal plane reticles work go look out a window of your house at something-(discreetly, of course--with bolt open please). Put the center x-hair on the "tgt." @ 9x. Now note where the lower stadia lines line up on that tgt. Now crank the scope to 4.5x and do the same thing. U should see that the lines are about twice as wide on that tgt. now. That's because the system is inversely proportional--as u DECREASE power, reticle subtension (measurement) INCREASES. Pretty cool, huh?

 

I learned this the hard way by missing a coyote at about 150 yds. once, using a Burris Ballistic Mil-dot reticle (just another 2nd focal plane ballistic reticle like yours), because i thought i would be cool and zeroed the optic at the upper mil-dot for 200 yds. at 24x on the 6-24x. When i cranked the scope down to 6, my zeros were all different EXCEPT for the optical center of the scope (the main x-hair). See how it works?



Edited by sscoyote - October/16/2009 at 16:52
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/16/2009 at 17:41
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Nice to see I'm not the only one that learns the hard way.. I guess thats why I'm on the "Short Bus"...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/18/2009 at 02:47
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biggreen747,
 
I just bought a new 7mm-08, Im going to be reloading for it if they ever send me the brass I ordered...I will be using 140gr. TTSX for all hunting situations, just one load for this new Sako Finnlight. The rifle is wearing a new 3.5x10x44 Rapid Z 600.
   So Im going to try and use the information you have suggested to Nebraska to see how well this works. It only makes sense to me to take advantage of 10X as much as possible since my eyes are not the best..I will not be shooting an animal over 400 yards anyway after much more practice with this new rifle...Its really not a super long range rifle anyway but Im sure I can kill an Elk with it at 300..Thanks! JF
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/18/2009 at 17:07
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7mm-08Big Smile IMHO that is one of the most underrated rifle caliber's out there. It will certainly take an Elk at 300yds with a 140grTTSX.. Now if I could only figure out an excuse to buy another rifle it would be a 7mm-08.
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