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Wheeler Cerama Coat Finish

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/20/2005 at 18:09
ranburr View Drop Down
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Has anyone used this stuff?  It is one of those spray can finishes that you bake in the oven.  I want to try it out because it is supposed to be really hard and it requires no prep work (sandblasting).  Does it work as advertised?  Does it go on evenly?  I picked up a new toy last night; Teddy Jacobson worked over Springfield 1911.  I didn't need it, but Teddy does great work and it was only $425.00.  It was one of those I need cash now deals.  Anyhow, it is a cop gun that was carried a lot and shot a little.  Thus the finish is worn and I have been wanting to try this Wheeler stuff out.

 

ranburr 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/21/2005 at 08:56
Dale Clifford View Drop Down
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When no prep is done on a gun, it is just like the finish on an automobile fender, any blemish there before will be amplified. It is not sandblasting but "glass bead" blasting.  The slides on most 1911's are not flat (parallel) ground as they used to be on the old Colts (one of the reasons they were so expensive). After finishing the gun the shinier the finish the more apparent the dips and dishes will become. At the very least try flat filing the slide sides first  (unless you have a precision flat grinder of course) since it shows the most surface area, the new finish will be "toned" down. If possible the receiver should be also. All the bake on finishes whether teflon, ceramic, or laquer depend on pore size of the gun metal and the "set" of the epoxy (Use extreme cleaning MEK techniques). Ceramic coats are now the hot thing, as well as shades of colors, but harder also means more brittle. I've never seen a home job, I'd accept (of any type, blueing etc.). Two points to consider, 1) if you like to experiment go for it. 2) after shooting in competive events for more years than I have left I always looked for the guy with the dirty holster and the worn down gun, that was the guy I had to beat not the new $2000 gun. (probably doesn't have any thing to do with your choice but something to think about). Sounds to me like you have an excellent practice gun as is.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/21/2005 at 18:45
ranburr View Drop Down
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Thanks for the info Dale.  This is more or less a science project.  To be honest, after the newness wears off, I don't know that I will ever shoot this gun again.  It is not set up the way I like my 1911s.  But, it is a nice gun, the guy needed the cash, Teddy does great work and is not in the best of health.  Thus it is doubtful that there will be many more of Teddy's guns floating around much longer if the rumors are true.  I actually needed another 1911 like I need a hole in the head.

 

ranburr 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/21/2005 at 20:16
dilligaf View Drop Down
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Ranburr,

 

I have used most of the finishes on the market. Be very wary of anything that says it requires nor prep work. ANY oil, dirt, or even cleaner residue will affect how any coating will adhere to the part it is covering. (even any left around pins or srews will bleed out when you bake the part which can result in the coating bubbling and flaking) Even if you use spray paint disassemble as much as you can & clean it as best you can. I'm so anal about prep & cleanliness that I dont even touch the surface once cleaned without plain latex gloves on.

 

DO NOT use glass beads to prep a surface prior to application of a ceramic, Moly, or DuraCoat finish. Glass beads will have a polishing effect the surface resulting in the coating not adhering properly to the surface. Go to almost any coating manufacturer's website or refinishing website and most say not to use glass or ceramic beads, fine sand will work but personally I use anywhere from 80 to 120 grit alum oxide it seems to give me the best results. You dont have to media blast the parts but when you do a lot of refinishing its faster & easier to blast. You can use 400 to 600 grit sand paper and just rough up the surface to give the coating something to "bite" on.

 

Spray cans are never easy to control and their pressure gradually decreases. Pick up a small hobby airbrush starter kit. Any hobby shop in your area should carry them. It dosent need to be anything elaborate or fancy. It just needs to shoot 35 psi.

 

For the application you have described I'd recommend Norrell's Moly Resin or DuraCoat. Both are fairly easy to apply.

Moly will require preheating and baking to cure. It dose have a smell when it bakes. So timing the project when you have the house to yourself is recommended. But it will be cured when you take it out of the oven.

DuraCoat will not require baking to cure but will take 3 to 4 weeks to fully cure. If you have any questions or need assistance I'll be more than happy to get you squared away.

 

You can contact me through this website or my contact info is on my website: http://www.larsontactical.com

 

Joe

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/22/2005 at 13:04
Roy Finn View Drop Down
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Dale is 100% correct about prep. work and refinishing. My favorite finish for the last 20 years has been " Black-T" by Walter Birdsong and my feelings are shared by a ton of riflesmiths, top gov. agencies and law enforcement departments. Walter has forgotten more about refinishing then most who will ever know.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/15/2006 at 10:05
RacialSlang View Drop Down
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Roy Finn, can you give me some more information on Walter Birdsong. I found his mailing address and phone number but I can't find a website.  Do you have any examples of the work he has done for you, and what is the price? Theres a good article on sniper central but they don't really put out any information.

 

Thanks, Eric

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/15/2006 at 16:10
Roy Finn View Drop Down
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The easiest and fastest wat is to go to www.tacticaloperations.com and read the story in SWAT magazine on the " Tango51" rifle. As far as pricing is concerned, I am not at liberty to discuss that issue. I would be happy to talk to Walter on Monday if you are serious about the process.

Edited by Roy Finn
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/15/2006 at 20:34
RacialSlang View Drop Down
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Thanks for the info, great articles by the way. I do like the finished from what I've seen so far but the price will be the deciding factor. I have a couple rifles that I built on surplus actions and I really don't think they need anything overly expensive.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2006 at 17:15
Roy Finn View Drop Down
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Spoke with Walter Birdsong and he stated that I can release the following. tel. # 601-939-7448. Current price to general public is approx. $200.
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