Best way to level a sope?

The SAKO I am using does not have sights.

Hey Folks,

What you really want in leveling a scope is to align the the crosshairs through the center of the bore while making sure the crosshairs are horizontal and vertical. I use the Segway Reticle Leveler... it doesn't care if the rifle is sitting level or not when leveling the scope. It just helps you align the crosshairs to the center of the bore and assures they are true. Best and easiest tool of it's kind i've ever seen.

And, sure you will most likely cant the rifle a tad when shooting in hunting situations, but at least you can rest assured that it won't be compounded with scope mounting problems! Not to mention the headaches and cost in bullets trying to sight in with that new BDC reticled scope! Here is how it works...

Now picture this tool with the metal bar sitting on the scope mount base with the sides pushed in and hugging the scope. A rubber band is used to hold it steady as pictured below...

I found that the camera would not focus on the crosshairs and the reticle leveler lines at the same time, but hopefully this blurry compromise will give you a rough idea of how it works.

I won't advertise where I buy most of my shooting supplies,  just do a search on 'Segway Reticle Leveler' for purchasing information. There is a version of the leveler with a small bubble level on the left hand side, but this is not needed for the unit to do it's magic.

Hope this helps out anyone confused with how leveling a reticle should be done. The 'level level level' tool will work fine too... I just find this one so much easier and better to work with.

Randy 

I use a rifle vise and two levels then level the scope on it before I even think of boresighting; but then I do want to shoot pdogs at 600 or more yards. I am suprised that anyone would not go to the trouble to mount a scope properly to avoid screwing up a hunt.  It is much easier to fix problems before they begin than to try and do it in the field and you would feel silly if you spend a couple of grand on a hunt and miss the trophy because you diden`t take 30 min and 20 bucks to do it right. Not to mention getting a clean kill.

Duce   

Trying using a bipod on a level table. Then align your crosshairs with a level reference. It will get you very close.

Consistency is what you are looking for though.  As stated before, it doesn't matter how you angle the rifle, the bullet will always drop straight down.  The angle at which you sight the rifle in has to be repeated each time.  I shoot a lot off of a bench, so after getting the scope where it seems straight to me, I always level my targets.  Align your crosshairs with the target lines and you're guaranteed to always shoot the same angle and the bullet path will follow the crosshair lines if nothing else is effecting it.  Like CarnageZ28 states, you can have it perfectly level on a bench but if you don't install a scope mounted level or have  a scope that has a level in it then there is no way to insure it will be level on every shot.  So.... I think the best way for hunting purposes to mount the scope, is to have a level reference point.  Shoulder your rifle like you are going to shoot something and level the crosshair with your reference.  The crosshairs will more than likely look canted off a bench or to other shooters and is very irritating to me when I do it, but it is what will work.   Actually, the bipod method works very well for getting the rifle and scope level.

But do you guys realize that even if the scope is mounted PERFECTLY LEVEL, as already stated, almost everyone holds the gun canted to one side or the other SEVERAL DEGREES.  This does the same thing, as not mounting it level.  Think about it.  If you hold the gun canted a little bit, the vertical crosshair ( Assuming the scope was mounted exactly correct ) is STILL NOT GOING to lie under the bullets path.  No matter what, a bullet will drop STRAIGHT DOWN from gravity, whether the gun is held sideways or not.  So if the gun is canted, it will affect your point of aim.

Inless you are a benchrest shooter, at varios distances, or you are shooting at prairie dogs 600+ yards out, there is NO NEED for that tool.

Get the gun mounted level in a gun vise, line the crosshairs up on a pefectly verticle structure, like a window frame or door, and tighten the screws down evenly.  Use locktite on them, the temporary stuff.  And call it a day.  Double check it once tight btw.  Ive shot crows multiple times, out in big feilds with some 300-400 yard shots, and never had that be a problem.  Your money would be better invested in a range finder or something.