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The real difference

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/25/2004 at 07:27
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Optics GrassHopper
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I'm am still trying to decide on a scope to mount to my new left-hand Browning A-bolt Hunter in .270WSM.  I deer hunt mostly edges of fields and tree lines with between 50 and a 250 yard shot.  After researching different scopes and going down to my local gun shops to look through some scopes, I have come to determine that I can't tell that much difference between them all.  Why is a Swarovski $1,000 and a Simmons $89?  OK I will admit I could tell some differences in the clarity, but what will that extra $900 buy me?  5 more minutes of shooting time?

I want a scope that will be be clear, will not black out when I move my head, and will stay zeroed in.  For my price range(<$300), I think I like the Bushnell Elite 3200 3-9X40 with the Firefly reticle.  Comparing the 40mm to the 50mm scope, I see that the 50mm is heavier, longer, and has a smaller Field of View.  I would think bigger is better, but it doesn't appear to be so.  Maybe more light transmission, but what does that translate into real life?

I have to give thanks to this forum for I have read through many of the listings to help me figure out what is the best scope for my money.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/26/2004 at 11:19
Chris Farris View Drop Down
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 .270WSM. deer mostly between 50 and a 250 yards.

 

First let me start by saying that it is very difficult to compare optics inside a retail store.  There are huge differences between low end and high end scopes.  Most of the middle of the road scopes are similar and it might come down to what features a specific model has that makes one better than another for what you are doing.

 

The difference between a $100. scope and a $1000. scope will be in the inner workings of the scopes mechanics, the materials used, how precisely it is assembled, warranty, quality of glass, quality of coatings, etc.  A high quality scope will last generations, stay on target, be repeatable and allow you to shoot at least 30 minutes earlier and later sometime longer depending one conditions.  Only you can decide if it is worth the extra money.  You do reach a point where you pay a lot more to gain a little.

 

50mm scopes are not brighter than 40mm scopes.  It is all relative to what power the scope is on.   It is easier to explain using a fixed power scope for now.   People up to around 40 can perceive a 7mm exit pupil from the scope, because that is the maximum diameter of their pupil in low light or darkness.  So ideally you would want a scope that transmits a 7mm exit pupil, the only problem is how do you know what its transmitting (its easy).  Just divide the objective lens size by the power and the answer is the exit pupil or the amount of light that is coming out of the back of the scope. ie: a 6x42 scope transmits a perfect 7mm exit pupil (that's why they make scopes and binoculars in strange numbers like 8x56, 6x42, and 9x63.  The formula is a little different for a variable scope, you would take the objective lens size and divide it by 7 to determine what power to put your scope on for a 7mm exit pupil (the most your eye can handle). ie: a 3-10x40 would need to be set on 5.7x to produce the desired 7mm exit pupil. A 3.5-10x50 would need to be set on about 7.1x to get a 7mm exit pupil. You see, these two scopes 40mm and 50mm are just as bright, they just do it on different powers.  A larger objective allows you to use your scope on a higher power and still have perfect light gathering.  A 3-12x56 transmits perfect light on 8x.  A 1.5-5x20 does it on 2.9x.  First decide what power you need for what you are doing, then multiply that by 7 and the answer will be the size of objective lens you will need.

All of these formulas for producing the same light with different powered scopes are only relevant if you are comparing scopes from the same manufacturer and the same models.  ie:  Weaver Grand Slam.  You can't get a BSA 3-9x50 and set it on 7x and expect it to be just as bright as a Leupold 3-9x50, because it is the glass and coatings that primarily determine the scopes ability to transmit light to your eye efficiently.

 

I think for what you are doing the Bushenll Elite 3200 3-9x40 would be an excellent choice.  The FireFly reticle is unique and really aids in extreme low light shots and the rainguard coatings can't be beat for hunting if fowl weather.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/31/2004 at 19:42
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Optics Apprentice
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IF YOU WANT A GREAT MIDDLE CLASS PRICED SCOPE I WOULD NARROW MY CHOICES DOWN TO EITHER THE LEUPOLD VARIX III, NIKON MONARCH GOLD, OR THE ZEISS CONQUEST. THEY ALL HAVE FULL LIFE TIME WARRANTYS WHICH MEANS THEY ARE VERY HIGH QUALITY SCOPES.  I STARTED OUT WITH A LOW QUALITY SCOPE, I THEN MOVE TO A LEUPOLD VARIX III. I BOUGHT A GERMAN MADE ZEISS VMV A YEAR AGO, AND THAT WILL BE MY LAST SCOPE PURCHASE, BECAUSE I KNOW YOU CAN'T GO ANY HIGHER QUALITY THAN ZEISS. THE 30MM ARE MUCH MORE DURABLE THAN THE 1 INCH TUBE. THE HIGHER QUALITY GLASS USED IN EXPENSIVE SCOPES WILL NOT STRAIN YOUR EYES  LIKE LOW QUALITY SCOPES WILL IF YOU HAVE TO FOLLOW THAT DEER WITH YOUR SCOPE BDFORE YOU CAN TAKE THE SHOT.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/05/2004 at 20:39
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Not knowing much about scopes is what brought me to this forum, to learn more before puchasing my new scope and gun. One thing in your post what caught my eye was you might only get an extra 5 minutes shooting time with much higher priced scope. I also said the same thing when talking about purchasing a new scope at the end of this hunting season. My buddies reply was fairly simple, I was willing to part with $2500 for a lease, $ 800 for licsense's for me and the wife, hundreds of $$ each time we drove from Fl to SC to set stands and hunt, all the scouting and campfire strategy's (not saying I don't enjoy all this), yet I want to buy a cheap scope to save a little $, well what good is going all the way "but save a few bucks" on the only thing that will allow me to see at the best time of day. All that money spent and a deer of a lifetime could be standing 50 yrds from me but I can't shoot because I can't see it. I've seen many pictures taken at night from cameras set up on trails with deer way bigger than I've ever seen hunting. Why is this? My guess is the smart ones move at night only or hopefully sometimes at dusk and I know I want to be able to see it that one time it decides to walk a little early.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/05/2004 at 23:18
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Anyone that is in the market for a riflescope, binocular or spotting scope would do themselves a huge service to purchase a book titled " Optics for the Hunter" by John Barsness. He covers every topic about purchasing quality optics that one could imagine. It is avaiable through Safari Press. As stated in his book with regards to the high cost of European optics, part of the reason of the high cost has to do with the high cost of wages and import duties tacked onto the price of these Euro marvels of optical excellance. Yes, Europeon glass is great, but there are many scopes out there that will give you everything you are looking for at a lower cost and you won't have to compromise quality. My vote is for the Bushnell Elite 4200 2.5-10x40 which is now available with the FireFly reticle.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/06/2004 at 14:13
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That is a really great book to have.It teaches you alot of stuff about optics!

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/21/2004 at 13:56
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Another good read is Sporting Optics by Wayne Van Zwoll

 

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