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Taurus 1911 series

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 09:12
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When DC first joined the forum I remember in a debate he once stated that I was probably one of those guys who did not own among other weapons a 1911 pistol.  Well, at that time I stated I did not and I still do not, but am sort of in the market for one, but do not want to blow the bank.  I have looked at the Taurus 1911 series and heard alot of good press about all the features that would normally go into a custom pistol.  I know a fair amount about pistols, but I am truly a rifleman.  Does anybody have any first hand experience with this pistol or any other suggestions in this price range?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 09:16
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I don't own one, but my local gun smith is a 1911 fanatic.  He builds 1911s and has about 15 of them all different makes.  He bought a couple Taurus 1911s to sell in his shop and he was so impressed with them that he kept one of them for himself.  He said it is probably one of the best production built 1911's he has seen.  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 11:20
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I'd look at the Dan Wesson (c-z).  They have a nice Commander size gun.
 
The High Standard's  I have seen are VERY well fitted, but have a crap finish.  I think they are made the same place and the Rock Islands
 
Most of these guns have Novaks.  I do not care for Novak or his sights after custmer service issues on a gun.  That does bring me to my next "issue" I do not like many of the "custom" features that come on these guns.  I find then to be a hinderance rather than a help.  I find the less I change things the better.   
 
If you give us a mission statement for the gun, then I can help some more. Most of the game guns are not great carry guns.  In the long run I'd buy a Colt.  You get more of your money back (percentage). 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 11:25
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The main reason I want one, is just to have a 1911 to add to my collection.  I want a well put together model that does shoot well, but do not want to spend alot of money.  I reload for all of my rifles which are many, but not for my pistols/revolvers, just because I do not shoot them enough to justify the expensive of the dies and so forth.  But, it is getting to the point that during the summer, it might be more fun to shoot pistols and I just might by some reloading dies for a variety of them.



Edited by Dolphin - June/25/2008 at 11:25
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 12:50
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You can have one that is well put together or not spend a lot of money.  Both is a crap shoot. 
 
I looked at your choices and am not impressed.  Anything I saw would at least need the hammer buzzed on the belt sander.  Most have tons of sharp edges.  The factory beavertails fit sucks and will grab clothes.  I also want the beavertail fitted so that when the thumb safety is on, there is no exposed hole (why you see so many guns shown with the safety off).  
 
A GI Springfield will need the hammer buzzed and the ejection port lowered.  A Colt 1991(series 80) or Series 70 will need the hammer buzzed.  Colts hold thier value better. A typical charge for cutting and sanding a hammer is 25 to 40 dollars depending on if they also work over the grip safety.
 
Buy a Commander in stainless and get an old school wilson beaver tail, a yost rear sight and a good extractor, Have the slide fitted and barrel link adjusted if needed.  Shave the slide stop and get 20lpi vertical serrations if you want to get fancy.  That will shoot and carry a couple of life times.
 
 
The more 1911's I buy the less I have done to them.  I don't want any hammer bite.  I just want good sights and a good trigger.  The slide should be running straight and not rattle.
 
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 12:56
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This model of the kimber is a good one. IT will have all the things done to it to make it comfortable to use. http://gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=102552360
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 15:07
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Originally posted by supertool73 supertool73 wrote:

I don't own one, but my local gun smith is a 1911 fanatic.  He builds 1911s and has about 15 of them all different makes.  He bought a couple Taurus 1911s to sell in his shop and he was so impressed with them that he kept one of them for himself.  He said it is probably one of the best production built 1911's he has seen.  


That sounds like a pretty good endorsement. I haven't seen one, but Taurus says they have forged frames, slides and barrels. That is a great start for a gun that has an MSRP of $719.
I would get one and shoot the heck out of it. If it is reliable and a good shooter you can get into modifications later.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 15:10
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Vernon "Flea" Harrison of Central Virginia Tactical bought one of the Taurus's and loves it.  He talks about it quite often over at snipers paradise and said it has yet to have a problem.  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 15:33
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Originally posted by silver silver wrote:

You can have one that is well put together or not spend a lot of money.  Both is a crap shoot. 
 
I looked at your choices and am not impressed.  Anything I saw would at least need the hammer buzzed on the belt sander.  Most have tons of sharp edges.  The factory beavertails fit sucks and will grab clothes.  I also want the beavertail fitted so that when the thumb safety is on, there is no exposed hole (why you see so many guns shown with the safety off).  
 
A GI Springfield will need the hammer buzzed and the ejection port lowered.  A Colt 1991(series 80) or Series 70 will need the hammer buzzed.  Colts hold thier value better. A typical charge for cutting and sanding a hammer is 25 to 40 dollars depending on if they also work over the grip safety.
 
Buy a Commander in stainless and get an old school wilson beaver tail, a yost rear sight and a good extractor, Have the slide fitted and barrel link adjusted if needed.  Shave the slide stop and get 20lpi vertical serrations if you want to get fancy.  That will shoot and carry a couple of life times.
 
 
The more 1911's I buy the less I have done to them.  I don't want any hammer bite.  I just want good sights and a good trigger.  The slide should be running straight and not rattle.
 
 
 
Now, I have several autos, but am wheel gun man, so I am just learning about 1911s.  The Taurus has 30 lpi checkering on the vertical of the hand grip.  Have you handled one of the Taurus pistols.  I picked one up at the local gunshop and the basic model, i.e. blued I could probably get them to sell it to me for about 500 or so.  I liked the look of the Dan Wesson Commander in a 10 mm, but I guess I should stay with the traditional caliber.  I already have a Glock in a 10 mm.  Thanks for all of the input guys.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 16:50
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A co-worker of mine bought the Taurus PT1911 stainless and he loves his as well.  The store he bought his from said they couldn't keep them on the shelf.  Haven't shot one yet, but the ones I handled looked to be well made, especially for the money!
 
Here's my Kimber Pro Elite .45 with tritium sights.  It's stock except for the cocobolo grips I added.  I like it really well, but I've heard mixed reviews on some current Kimber 1911's pertaining to QC issues.


Edited by RifleDude - June/25/2008 at 17:00
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 17:26
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Own one and love it, sure there are better, but not for $500.00, highly recommended.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 17:36
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Dolphin,
 
I DONT LIKE CHECKERING.  I carry concealed against my skin or in the winter often a silk liner or wool sweater.  The checkering eats at your clothes or skin.  If you do the vertical serrations then you do not have that problem, but get good traction with sweating hands.  Since your clothes stick on the checkering then you print more.
 
I have seen Taurus at the gun show, but have not taken a close look.  They seem to be getting great  feed back, but what does not for the first year or two?  For the money they are a reasonable gun, like the rest of Taurus's products. 
 
Take the recoil spring out of the gun and cycle it by hand and that will tell you a lot about it.  It should feed most rounds smoothly without the spring in place.  Field strip the thing.  Slide a case under the extractor and see how it fits. Does it hold the case just barely with the case unsuported with the slide as you would shoot the gun?  Look at how the barrel is linked.  Is there a gap between the slide stop and the barrel? (They will run with a big gap, but feeding hollow points can get wierd).   Run the bare slide up and down the frame rails and see how it fits.  A little verticle play is ok, but you do not want a lot of side to side.  Nor do you want the ejector to take up  the slack in the slide.  And as wierd as this may sound, check the slide and rails with a straight edge. A warped slide, and I have gotten one on a Springfield is about the only thing, you can't salvage with money.  The rest of it is "just" labor.       
 
Have somebody do an action job, not a trigger job.  They should not change the sear unless things are really bad.  They should polish the crap out of every moving part and where it rubs against the frame.  Expect a couple of hours of shop rate.  That's how you get that glass rod break. 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 17:42
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Roger that Silver.  I am the type of guy who measures spaces between scope molding mag ring indentations to see how even they are.  I think I am going to take Friday off, sight in one of my rifles and go back to the gun shop and take a closer look at it.  The only reason I mentioned the checkering is that it seems to come with custom work, or at least that is what I read.  Again, you know a lot more about this type of gun than I do.  I am a complete novice when it comes to a 1911 pistol and that is why I am asking for help.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 17:49
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The checkering problem is the simplest  to solve, there are literally 1000s of after market grips for the 1911. Silver has some good advise, which I might be inclined to look at myself.  Got to love the wealth of knowledge available here.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 18:34
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Checkering IS a measure of the quality of craftsmanship a maker is capable of doing.  The finer the lines the better craftsman.  The lines should be square over the curved surface and thus the checkering should be square under a magnifiying glass.  It is one of the test to be in the guild.  The Taurus would be nice and square, but machine cut not done by hand.
 
I like vertical serations, kinda like a Gold Cup.  Golf balling and some variations with a ball cutter are popular.  Michiguns does some WAY cool EDM stuff that make little knobs.  Stipling, nobody gets thrilled about it, but it works.  There are two main ways of doing.  One looks nice.  It grabs clothes worst than checkering.  The other looks crappy and for the money you should just get the serrations.
 
GRIPS???  Man the sky is the limit... It is the key to pimpin'
And the serious grip porn
I like thin grips with vertical serations instead of the basic diamond check.  I have Ahrends in bocote. Purple tuilpwood and some extra thin maple with lazer checkering are on some of my others
 
It has not been mentioned yet, but Metaform magazines are the only thing that will run in all my 1911s.  They make the factory Colt and are across the street from Colt.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 19:00
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Geez Silver, you are getting me into a budget I did not want to experience.  Beautiful stuff, though.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 19:07
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Originally posted by silver silver wrote:

GRIPS???  Man the sky is the limit... It is the key to pimpin'
 
 
I bought the cocobolo grips on my Kimber from esmeralda.  At the time she didn't have the variety of woods she has now, but she always managed to find some of the prettiest cocobolo I've ever seen!
 
Good 1911 advice and tips, Silver!
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Holsters:
http://fist-inc.com/holsters These guys are my preffered maker.
 
 
http://www.coronadoleather.com From the lifestyle section
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2008 at 21:35
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Originally posted by Dolphin Dolphin wrote:

  I already have a Glock in a 10 mm.  Thanks for all of the input guys.


I can see your reason for a 1911 is for a .45. I think if you are going to get a .45 that is a good choice.
I don't carry my 1911's because I carry a G20 in cold weather and a G19 in warm.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/26/2008 at 06:10
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Dolphin, there is a guy in my IDPA group who shoots the Taurus and he says it is the BEST production 1911 on the market.  He is a true .45ACP shooter, always in the top 3 and since he started shooting the Taurus, more #1.  I've fired it and love the feel.  It is certainly equal to anything I have fired in .45ACP.  He shoots .230gr factory Speer Gold Dot, I believe.  Says the .230gr actually helps him "stay down" on the target better than lighter ammo. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/26/2008 at 09:14
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Thanks for all of the info guys.  Keep it coming.  I am leaning more and more towards the Taurus.  If it were ya'll, would you go with a standard blued model or a more fancy model?  I do not intend on shooting it in the rain or using it as a back up when hunting.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/26/2008 at 09:27
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If you go with the Taurus, I have heard the finish on the regular one is not holding up very well.  So I would probably get the stainless.  Or you could dura coat the black one once it starts wearing off.
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the biggest problem with all the "new comers" are the barrels, and really the downfall. few are turned from bar stock, (Barsto,Nowlin,etc.) but on the other hand you get a gun that 15 years ago had to be hand built. none of the checkering is diamond checkering it's "line" checkering cut with triangular files, which can be made sharp enough to cut your hands. as mentioned the new breed are machined or in the mould castings. Colts are not really made by colt. they are farmed out and the company franchises the name from the city, I think. but that is beside the point as the ones being made are better than the either the 80 or 70 series. I think cz owns dan wesson now so expect better cs. but thats the best part of a 1911-all you need is brownells. stainless wears better, no need for coatings. Most gun finishes are worn out by practice draws anyway.  If you carry the gun wood grips will become dulled and worn, check out diamond wood, or micarta, aluminum or even good old Pachymers. Taurus makes good guns, certainly right up with any in this catagory, can't wait to check out there new slim 9. If the same shooter is is given a course of fire with the "middle of the line" vs. the high price stuff, there scores will not be statistically different. This has been tested by many IPSC gun clubs. (assumes good triggers, proper gun function). 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/26/2008 at 09:59
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Stainless finish.  Roguard the slide if you need to cut the glare.  Blue wears out fast on carry guns.  1911's like to be run wet and the stainless even more so. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/26/2008 at 12:56
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I second Silver on the Blue. The stainless would be a good choice.
I have been dealing with Tool and Die people from Brazil for several years and have a healthy respect for them. I believe their metallurgy and machining is of high quality. We have had very few problems with their tooling. I would give that Taurus in SS a try.
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