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talley vs warne mounts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/22/2007 at 17:21
ghost82 View Drop Down
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I am interested in using either of the two above brands as i've heard nothing but good things about both.  However, should i go with the talley one piece ringset or the warne rings and bases.  Ive heard that since the talley incorporates the base with the lower ring half its actually a more stable platform.  Any input would be helpful.  Also ive been using blue loc-tite to seal the threads on my scope rings but have recently heard not to do so, except for the bases.  Whats the best method for ensuring things dont come loose?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/22/2007 at 17:33
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Well ghost82 welcome to the OT.  First, I use almost exclusively Warnes mounts and rings, followed by one piece Talley mounts and Rings.  I love the Talley set up, because it is easy to set up.  I personally never use loc tite or nail polish in mounting any scope.  I have mounted hundreds of scopes and have never had a failure.  I have purchased rifles that it has been used on and had to drill out screws.  Not good.  Both are great platforms.  If you go with the Warnes, I do not recommend lapping the rings.  That is my personal opinion.  Rifledude, a very well respected member on this forum may disagree and he may be correct, but that is my opinion on these particular rings.  On the Talley one piece mounts and rings, I would definately lap.  Both are great products.  The Warne rings take a little extra time to get set up, but are bullet proof.  What type of rifle, caliber and use are you going to be doing?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/22/2007 at 17:41
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Welcome, ghost82!

 

What rifle are the rings to be mounted on? 

 

In general, unless there is a mounting length problem (scope tube too short to get proper ring spacing and/or eye relief), I would always opt for fewer parts where possible, and would be inclined to get the 1-piece Talley rings.  Simpler is usually more foolproof.  Plus, I think Talley rings look better than Warne rings -- the current Warne rings are now thicker and chunkier looking than they used to be, while the Talleys are sleeker looking.  Strengthwise, I'd say they're the same. 

 

I use blue Loc-Tite on bases with either slotted screws or hex (Allen) head screws.  However, it isn't recommended to use any thread locker at all with Torx head screws because you can torque them tighter without stripping the head, and both Talley and Warne are now using Torx screws.

 

Not trying to nitpick, but this question is best suited for the "Rings and Bases" forum.  I would say you'd get more responses there, but truthfully, you'd probably get more responses here, since this forum has more activity.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/22/2007 at 17:50
ghost82 View Drop Down
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I'll be mounting to a remington 700ADL 30.06.  Yeah i know,i posted to the rings and bases forum earlier and noticed the lower activity so i posted here as well.  Is the warne torq tool recommended or is it garbage?  It supposedly torqs to 25 foot pounds. Thanks for help by the way to all who have responded.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/22/2007 at 18:29
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I don't use a torque wrench with Torx screws, ghost.  If you're using the torx key ("L" shaped) that generally comes with the rings, just torque the screws until they're good and tight to the point the key is beginning to bend a little and you're as tight as you need to be.  If you're using a screwdriver handle type torx wrench, the design of the wrench will limit you from overtorquing the screw somewhat.  Keep in mind that torx screws will take more torque than slotted or hex key screws.

 

Since you said this is going on a 700, then the Talleys you're referring to are the "lightweight" horizontally split rings (Talley also makes 1-piece ring mounts for Ruger that are vertically split, which is why I asked the question), in which case I would personally lap them, but in many cases, you might be just fine without lapping if you don't have a lapping bar.  I have mixed feelings on lapping vertically split rings like the Warnes.  Sometimes I do it; sometimes I don't.  Vertically split rings will "give" somewhat due to the ability of the separate halves to "float" and self-align a little against the scope tube and base.  Basically, I only lap vertically split rings when there's an obvious problem like having to use too much of the scope's adjustments to zero the rifle, because properly lapping vertically split rings is a pain in the butt.  Lapping horizontally split rings is easy and relatively fast.

 

Dolphin, you posted while I was typing out my post.  Sorry to repeat some of what you said.

 

BTW -- I sorta agree with you about not using Loc-tite.  Since many of the mounts today now use Torx screws, Loc-Tite isn't needed for these screws.  However, I do still use it on conventional slotted screws and Allen head screws.  Just a tip for future reference -- unless the screw head is stripped, not allowing you to get a bite on the screw, in most cases, you shouldn't have a problem loosening screws that have been installed with Lock-Tite or nail polish with a little heat.  Simply use a hair dryer that puts out a good amount of heat and heat up the area surrounding the screw for a few minutes until it softens up the thread locking compound.  Using a good hollow ground screwdriver so it doesn't slip or an allen wrench in good condition that fits well, I've never failed to be able to remove a screw using heat.  A little strategically applied heat from the hair dryer also works most of the time in breaking action screws loose from a fresh bedding job. 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/22/2007 at 21:11
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I recently put the Warne rings/base combo on my Model 700 mountain. This is a good looking combo that I think you will be happy with. No lapping was required for a perfect mounting of my Zeiss Conquest. The low rings were perfect for the Conquests' 40mm bell. Plenty of room to spare. Good luck with your choice, Bricat
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/23/2007 at 07:54
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Originally posted by RifleDude RifleDude wrote:

I don't use a torque wrench with Torx screws, ghost.  If you're using the torx key ("L" shaped) that generally comes with the rings, just torque the screws until they're good and tight to the point the key is beginning to bend a little and you're as tight as you need to be.  If you're using a screwdriver handle type torx wrench, the design of the wrench will limit you from overtorquing the screw somewhat.  Keep in mind that torx screws will take more torque than slotted or hex key screws.

 

Since you said this is going on a 700, then the Talleys you're referring to are the "lightweight" horizontally split rings (Talley also makes 1-piece ring mounts for Ruger that are vertically split, which is why I asked the question), in which case I would personally lap them, but in many cases, you might be just fine without lapping if you don't have a lapping bar.  I have mixed feelings on lapping vertically split rings like the Warnes.  Sometimes I do it; sometimes I don't.  Vertically split rings will "give" somewhat due to the ability of the separate halves to "float" and self-align a little against the scope tube and base.  Basically, I only lap vertically split rings when there's an obvious problem like having to use too much of the scope's adjustments to zero the rifle, because properly lapping vertically split rings is a pain in the butt.  Lapping horizontally split rings is easy and relatively fast.

 

Dolphin, you posted while I was typing out my post.  Sorry to repeat some of what you said.

 

BTW -- I sorta agree with you about not using Loc-tite.  Since many of the mounts today now use Torx screws, Loc-Tite isn't needed for these screws.  However, I do still use it on conventional slotted screws and Allen head screws.  Just a tip for future reference -- unless the screw head is stripped, not allowing you to get a bite on the screw, in most cases, you shouldn't have a problem loosening screws that have been installed with Lock-Tite or nail polish with a little heat.  Simply use a hair dryer that puts out a good amount of heat and heat up the area surrounding the screw for a few minutes until it softens up the thread locking compound.  Using a good hollow ground screwdriver so it doesn't slip or an allen wrench in good condition that fits well, I've never failed to be able to remove a screw using heat.  A little strategically applied heat from the hair dryer also works most of the time in breaking action screws loose from a fresh bedding job. 

You are right Ted, I have long since purchased a nice gunsmith screwdriver set.  As you know I am putting more custom rifles together and doing more and more gunsmith work, learning alot as I go along and actually am trying to do a little buisness on the side.  Let me tell you Ted, I guess you know what I do for a living, but I am bored out of my mind, I wish I could sit and tell you why over a couple beers, but when I sit out in what I call my shop, I am as happy as I could be.  Just wish I could by a full size lathe.

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