QuoteReplyTopic: Sub $400 24X scope recommendations Posted: April/22/2008 at 13:26
I'd like to get a 24X or better scope for High Power Metallic Silhouette shooting. I've never done it before and would really like to get a dot reticle because they say those are the best for this type of offhand shooting. I can't spend more than $400 and would like to spend considerably less. I don't plan on winning matches or even competing in them. I'm thinking about buying my own silhouette targets and setting up a range at the hunting shack for me and my friends. I'd like the settings to be reasonably repeatable and the scope to be fairly sturdy.
Let me know what all you fine folks think would be an acceptable scope for me please.
Hard to find in that price range that will give you glass good enough to use at that high of a max magnification. Do you want a fixed power or variable? In a variable you might look at this http://www.swfa.com/pc-12807-1395-millett-6-25x56-lrs-1-tactical-35mm-riflescope.aspx The rings come with the scope but the scope with rings and shade is 499 so it is almost a 100 over budget.
What type of ranges will you be shooting? This seems like a lot of magnification for most ranges. I personally would use lower magnification and buy a higher end scope. About the only thing in that price range with that high magnification would be like an NC STAR, which I would't put on my air rifle not to mention a centerfire. My brother put one on his '06 in a 6-24x and it was nasty to look through. At these powers you will need fairly good glass to be able to see anything at high magnification, and good glass is expensive to produce. I would look into lower powered scopes with better glass, but it's not my call. You have to do what works for you.
"A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
Metallic silhouette is shot out to 550 meters (I think) at life size metal targets of chickens, pigs, turkeys, and rams from the offhand position. Usually very high magnification is used.
I compiled an excel list of everything in the 20-25X (upper) range to help me decide for my current project.
I am on my Mac at home now, but when I get on my PC at work I can (try) to attach that chart.
Basically, it allows you to make shorter and shorter lists by eliminating scopes from the big list based on your own priorities until you have just a few to choose from. I did this with the rifle as well, and ended up with a Remington 700P after several weeks of the elimination and research process, based on the various details that mattered to me.
So, remind me tomorrow with a reply here, and I'll try to get that list up here.
Hmmm... It seems he's suffered from acute lead poisioning...
I compiled an excel list of everything in the 20-25X (upper) range to help me decide for my current project.
I am on my Mac at home now, but when I get on my PC at work I can (try) to attach that chart.
Basically, it allows you to make shorter and shorter lists by eliminating scopes from the big list based on your own priorities until you have just a few to choose from. I did this with the rifle as well, and ended up with a Remington 700P after several weeks of the elimination and research process, based on the various details that mattered to me.
So, remind me tomorrow with a reply here, and I'll try to get that list up here.
Just copy it into excel and copy the list under the original, making deletions along the way. You will end up with a shorter list that closely matches your true needs and budgetary constraints.
Have fun!
Hmmm... It seems he's suffered from acute lead poisioning...
Those would become the first deletions from the list when you copy it under the original list. You may also remove the S&B offering, as it is a bit pricy.
That's how this system works!
Hmmm... It seems he's suffered from acute lead poisioning...
I'd scratch the ATN .... BARSKA .... and Millet ..... add New Nikon Monarch UCC 6-24x50 SF $488.99--- 4 rectile choices --- Free sunshade --- lifetime warranty --- beats all 3 of them . Can't understand why the nikons were'nt included originally ?
Edited by mercenary1947 - May/28/2008 at 12:28
One Shot One Kill .... *S.O.F * Head Shots Only
SWFAM
I like the New Monarch glass but only 34 moa of internal adjustment , I don't find a 6-24x50 UCC listed on the Nikon website except the new one but not the UCC above and no mil-dot reticle. I have the Millett LRS-1 with the Mil-dot and 140 moa of internal adjustment and like it for target.
Scopes with 1 inch tubes were (for the most part) not included in the original list. If I learned later they were 1 inch, they were removed then. This was to met my requirements to dial in elevation out to 1,000 yards. If you set a 200 yard zero and never move it, you can get by with a 1 inch tube quite easily and save quite a bit of cash as well.
The Nikon stuff (upper end at least) is quite good, and this is neither a "pro-Barska" nor "Anti-Nikon" list.
I was just trying to help out here. If you don't like my chart, make one from scratch that fits your needs.
If it matters to anyone, what I decided on is not even on this list...
A few rules I had (have) for myself:
Magnification should be equal to or less than half the objective diameter. So, a 20X scope should have a 40mm objective or larger to have a decent sized exit pupil. (25X - 50mm and so on)
30mm main tube (USUALLY) offers more windage and elevation adjustment than a 1 inch tube (but this is case-by-case and you should confirm before you buy)
If you use a ramped base (mine is 20MOA) don't forget to factor this in. A 90MOA scope has (roughly) 45 'up' and 45 'down'. If you add the 20 minute base, you gain that 20 minutes for additional elevation, but loose it for close up work (now a 65-25 range). With a 200 yard zero, it should not be a problem. I zeroed mine at 100 yards and it is fine. Basically, if you can get your zero as close as you intend to have it, you are all set.
Watch the base angle and objective OUTSIDE diameter when deciding on scope rings. This is particularly important with an extra-heavy barrel, long sun shade and/or flip-up cap on the objective. You DON'T want contact with the barrel, but you want it as low as possible too...
Steel rings are in 99% of cases (pro included) NOT needed. If you may find yourself dropping your rifle out of a helicopter at 100 MPH, then by all means, do get steel rings. The BASE in my opinion, should be one-piece, and solid steel. That being said, if you drop over 2 grand on the glass, why not get steel rings for it?
Make sure the rings are pushed fully FORWARD in their slot on the Picatinny rail, or they may move under recoil.
You do not need to crank the life from the ring mount screws.
I prefer to spread the rings as far apart as possible on the scope to distribute the load and stresses evenly.
Hmmm... It seems he's suffered from acute lead poisioning...
I like the New Monarch glass but only 34 moa of internal adjustment , I don't find a 6-24x50 UCC listed on the Nikon website except the new one but not the UCC above and no mil-dot reticle. I have the Millett LRS-1 with the Mil-dot and 140 moa of internal adjustment and like it for target.
Duce
Yea SWFA had some ..... all gone ... I bought the Nikon 6.5-20x44 AO Monarch UCC Riflescope with dual /green-red Illuminated mil-dot rectile . Statement from Snipers Hide :
Features & Specs An ultra long-range riflescope that makes short work of the really tough shots. From its target-style 1/8 MOA reticle adjustments and bright, 44mm objective lens to its substantial power range and Mildot reticle, Nikon's #6605 6.5-20 x 44 AO has precision written all over it.
I Love mine ..... and i see NIkon no longer has the dual IR in their new line ...... BUMMER ! I knew I should have bought 2 !!!!!!!!!!!
Edited by mercenary1947 - May/29/2008 at 12:40
One Shot One Kill .... *S.O.F * Head Shots Only
SWFAM
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