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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2009 at 15:42
pyro6999 View Drop Down
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i am looking for a list of very reputable stock carver/ finishers. i have a hand full of black walnut blanks i had made up a few years ago from a huge black walnut tree we had to take down at a job. im not sure i want to tackle this project on my own since ive never done any stock work, checkering and inletting scare me to death. i dont know if many guys will take a customers blank and do the work or not. thanks in advance.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2009 at 16:13
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I'd leave it to an expert, I personally don't have the patience for such a project.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2009 at 16:59
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Pyro I have looked in to this and there are lot's of places and or guy's that will turn you blank for a minimal fee.  $50.00--up to about $145.00 -Inletting to a percentage such as 50%----100% will vary, finishing is roughly $150.00--$400.00 depending checkering starts at $250.00 for basic. Do some searching! 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2009 at 17:09
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Most any stockmaker will use a customer provided blank.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2009 at 22:39
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Just remember if the stock splits while turning it is still yours.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2009 at 22:56
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 Before you send a blank in to be worked on, take it to a lumberyard or cabinet shop and have the moisture content tested and forward that data to your stockmaker.  He might want you to wait a couple more years!

 Don't let them drive large probe pins into a really nice blank, though, unless you can determine where the magazine well will end up. Or perhaps from the top edge into the barrel channel area.
 If you decide to work one yourself, remember to INLET FIRST, then shape.
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2009 at 11:25
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i have the saw mill down the road from me where i got the blanks cut and they have a moisture content tester. its been over two years since they were cut so they should be well on the way to being dry, eventhough i know a lot of the web sites i visited say you can never have them to dry.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2009 at 11:28
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.............go three years minimum.........................Bucky         
 
 
                             
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2009 at 16:37
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i guess when i get the moisture content tested i will know more.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2009 at 17:07
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 A great deal depends on the properties of the individual blanks, and the conditions under which they were dried. Also, whether the tree was alive when cut, the season of the year it was cut may factor in a little as well.
 
One rule of thumb suggests at least one year of air-drying per inch of blank thickness.
 
I've also heard pros espouse that rule, plus kiln-drying down to 6-8% moisture after that. And then seasoned another year to get it back up a couple points in moisture.
 I personally think that would make the most stable stock, as the kiln-drying sort of "kills" the wood.
  However, you will also lose a higher percentage of your blanks by kiln-drying, to cracks and checks, but at least you've worked the bugs out before you made a nice stock!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2009 at 18:00
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For strength, it's also better if the wood is relatively straight grained through the section that will end up being the grip.  If it has any fancy figure, it's best for it to be in the butt and/or forend.  You might be able to find someone locally who can kiln dry it for you to ensure it has sufficiently low moisture.
 
If you have a stock already that you'd like to model the shape after, there are some companies that offer stock duplicating services, where they use the sample stock as a template, and as they trace a probe along the template stock, a rotary cutter is milling out your rough blank to near net shape.  That would save you a lot of time in shaping, where in most cases, you'd be left with only minor shaping and prep sanding prior to your first sealer coats of finish.
 
If you want to do it youself, give me a ring, and I'd be happy to walk you through the process of inletting, shaping, whiskering and applying a satin "hand rubbed" look finish the "old school" way.  I used to do stock work, but I find I lack the time and patience for it anymore.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/03/2009 at 00:11
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There is a guy near Branson Mo. that does good work but he will not touch a blank unless it is at least 7 years old. I was going to get him to make a left hand thumbhole for me. I never found a blank that was what I wanted that would meet his requirements. He has a big selection of blanks some as much as 15 years old.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/03/2009 at 07:32
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this process seems overwhelming to me, i dont have any idea of where one would even start. i realize i would want to make a rough outline on the blank of the stock. after that im at a loss. the winters are long here, maybe i should wait another year before i start any way. the cost of the tools i will need is scary too.

worst of all, ive got no experience with wood in this aspect.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/03/2009 at 09:19
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Getting the correct fit is one of the secrets. For me, I like more drop in the comb and a slightly shorter length of pull on a hunting rifle that will be shot more from an offhand position. It keeps my arms in close so the stance will be more solid. Straighter comb for a rifle to be shot from the prone. You need to get with someone that has a fully adjustable rig. That way set up the dimensions and measure them just for you. Where is a whole different world when the weapon actually fits you. Its just like having hand made boots.

Edited by 3_tens - April/03/2009 at 09:19
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/03/2009 at 17:13
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thanks to looney i found a place with some very nice stocks here is one i really like in circassian, i really like circ walnut



http://www.dressels.com/stock_blanks/TR-2-2.jpg
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