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Stevens 200 and SS ?s

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/26/2006 at 11:12
MNnaloxone View Drop Down
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Hi, folks!

 

Just starting to get into "tactical rifle" shooting.  Have a class coming up next spring, and have purchased a Stevens 200 in 308 (think Savage w/o the accutrigger).  Liked a IOR 10 power fixed, but not sure I want to spend $700 on something that may not get a lot of use.  Enter the Super Sniper 10x42.  Have some questions, but all comments are welcome and appreciated. 

1. Medium rings?

2. Go with a 20MOA base?  I can't see shooting much past 800. The school I'll take the class from recently had a short rifle event, and targets were from 200 to 600.  Aluminum one-piece base OK?

3. Would you spring the extra $100 for the side parallax--does it make THAT much difference?

4. I poked around the Sample list, and saw some SS that had knobs "not audibly consistent with each other".  What's this mean, is it a big deal, is it repairable?  (Saw some posts on re-lubing the adjustments.  Would this take care of it?)

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/26/2006 at 12:22
TPS_Phil View Drop Down
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Low Rings

 

You don't need a 20moa with all the moa in the SS Scope.  Some might say to get one, just in case you upgrade the scope later, but you don't need one with the SS.

 

Side parallax will be your preference as a extra $100 is a extra $100.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/26/2006 at 15:28
cheaptrick View Drop Down
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Welcome to The OT!!

 

TPS Phil pretty much summed my thoughts.

I have a 20 MOA Badger rail with mine, but the SS has so much "up", that it's not needed. 

 

As far as your #4 question is concerned, give the greatest optics dealer on planet earth (SWFA) a call and ask them for a definition of what "not audibly consistent with each other" means.

Ask for "The Optics Goddess".....Tell her cheaptrick sent ya.......

 

The "relube" you mentioned may indeed fix that, but check with those folks and just ask about it.

If you have any doubts, why not just buy a brand new one??

Mines still clicking away, unchanged from when I bought it.... 

And believe me when I tell you, I'm a "clicker". 

 

http://www.riflescopes.com/products/SS10X42/super_sniper_10x 42_30mm_rifle_scope.htm

 

 

My 10x, rear parallax Super Sniper has been absolutely amazing! 

I couldn't be happier with it. I feel like I stole it for $300...... 

 

Something to consider.

I'm a left handed shooter and prefer the rear parallax model so I can correct parallax and still leave my trigger finger close to the trigger.

Right handed shooters may prefer the side focus model for the same reason.

 

What class are you taking??

 

All the best!!

 

Edit to add:

This pic is my factory Remington .308, with a 10x SS, 100 yard, 5 shot group.

 

Is this "Tactical" enough for ya??......

 

 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/27/2006 at 21:17
Urimaginaryfrnd View Drop Down
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No sense spending two times what the rifle cost on a scope so I would go with the Super Sniper 10x. Dials not being audibly consistent means you can hear the clicks on one better than you can hear the clicks on the other. Not unusual as the elevation knob gets used more. Doesnt affect how well the scope works but for such a small difference I would buy new. The side focus is a feature that I really like but left handed guys dont like it as well. I think you should have gotten the savage 10FP with the accutrigger but that's history. I dont think you will need anything more than standard rings and bases although I might choose a dual dovetail  Leupold or Burris for added strength as I have had issues with large heavy scopes on the type of base that does not dovetain in the rear. Another option Warne steel rings and base are affordable and seem to be good solid steel. I see no reason for you to go plus 20 moa as I doubt your gun will be so extremely accurate as to be useful over 600 yds. Where you get into needing the plus moa base is past 600 yds.  My .308 sighted at 200 yds is on sight at 600 yds with 13.25 MOA correction. After 600 they drop like a rock. Spend a hundred or so and have it pillar glass bedded with the barrel floated.

 

Read my lips - No aluminum base, and No alunimum rings - The only exception might be someting from Badger Ordnance.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/11/2006 at 06:53
Fla.Shooter View Drop Down
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NICE SHOOTING CHEAPTRICK,VERY NICE.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/11/2006 at 13:59
cheaptrick View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Fla.Shooter Fla.Shooter wrote:

NICE SHOOTING CHEAPTRICK,VERY NICE.

 

Thanks...

I get lucky sometimes...

Plus, I only show you guys my "good groups".

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/14/2006 at 11:16
never e nuff View Drop Down
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Welcome MNnaloxone, I am sure you will get many opions on scopes, mine is simply not to buy the least expensive optics. Save up and purchase the best you can. The rifle you purchased might benifit most from the addition of a quality trigger. I have purchased many and feel that the Canjar set trigger is best quality out there for the Savage. it is less than $100. Also a solid stock has another advantage. The Choate varmint stock with its full length aluminum bedding block would be my suggestion. From your username can I assume you are from my home state of MN?    
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