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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2010 at 21:31
Lennyo3034 View Drop Down
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Hello I discovered this forum a few weeks ago, and after careful deliberation, decided to get a SS16X. I finally got it in today along with base and rings and mounted it on my Remington 700 SPS Varmint. Unfortunately, I have not been impressed. The optics are considerably better than my $20 remington branded scope that came with the rifle, but that is expected. I did however look through a Millett TRS-1 last week at the range and based on memory, seemed to be a lot clearer than the SS. However that may be due to the relatively low light available, as I did not get the SS mounted until late in the day.

Unlike some of the posts I've read, my turrets work perfectly with no mushiness. My windage turret does have a little slack before it clicks, but I'm not too concerned about that. What I am concerned about is the focus markings. I looked at targets about 50-75 yds away and adjusted the focus until I had a clear view, when I looked at the focus setting, I was shocked to see that I was between the 300m and 500m marks. I did not have that much further to go until it stopped at the infinity mark. I do plan on making shots at longer ranges eventually and was wondering if the lack of focus range will have an adverse effect at those longer distances? I also did not mess with the Parrelax because I'm not exactly sure what it does, any advice on that as well?

I have not taken this scope to the range yet, or even viewed objects during the day, so that could change things. I plan on going tomorrow morning (screw work, I just got new toys) and posting my results.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2010 at 21:54
neilbilly View Drop Down
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16X at 50-75 yards? 

I personally feel like once you get some daylight and sight in on something 200 yards away your opinion will change a bit. 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2010 at 22:28
billyburl2 View Drop Down
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Not to flame your post, but did you clean the window you were looking out of? Before you claim horrible glass, check the scope out throughly, as it should be checked out, as a sighting instrument on a rifle!  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2010 at 22:59
doublechaz View Drop Down
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If you were turning something with distance marks on it as you describe then you were not focusing the scope you were adjusting the parallax.  This seems counter intuitive on this scope because of its innovative design.  Most scopes put that adjustment on the objective end of the scope.  Even though that parallax wheel is at the back it is adjusting lenses at the front.  The eyepeice turns to adjust the focus by moving lenses at the back.

I have seen online directions for setting the focus correctly as well as the parallax.  One of the experts here can probably repeat that, or you could google it.

Good luck with your further adventures.  I really love my SS 10x42hd and I suspect you will love yours with a little more investigation.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2010 at 22:59
Lennyo3034 View Drop Down
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I went outside with it and set it down on the table on my deck (the scope that is, before mounting on rifle). However, it was getting dark at this point so that may not have been the best test for it. Tomorrow is supposed to be bright and sunny so we'll see how it does at the range. I'm more concerned about the lack of adjustable range on the focus than anything. I just took sight of a wall outlet from about 20 feet away, when I focused it, it was past the 20 yard mark. Would changing the parallax have anything to do with this?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2010 at 23:21
cyborg View Drop Down
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At a set 16X the scope is going to be very poor in low light. No matter how good glass is, 16X with a 42mm Obj is giving a tiny exit pupil. 2.65mm to be precise.
As far as the Parralax/focus adjustment. Every scope I have ever used that was adjustable, the closer you get to infinity, the more it seems to be focused at all distances. In fact on my Bushnell, infinity is where the scope sits for most shots under 100 yards. Bare in mind that this isn't a common or advised tactic for an adjustable parralax scope. it just happens to work well for me.
 
You should also bare in mind that everyone sees differently through a scope, depending on your eyes. The parralax should be used to remove parralax error which is the moving of the cross hairs as you may move your head, or your heart beats and you move within the eye box of the scope. Properly adjusted and the crosshairs only move when the scope moves regardless of where your head or eye position is relative to the scope centerline.
Focus should be achieved using the ocular focus adjustment first. If this isn't properly achieved first everything else will be off.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2010 at 00:04
Lennyo3034 View Drop Down
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Thanks, I wasn't sure what the Parralax actually did. I also noticed the title of this thread might be a little unfair to the SS considering I haven't taken it to the range yet, is there any way to edit it? Or can a moderator just take off the "not impressed" part?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2010 at 00:05
cyborg View Drop Down
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I can do that if you wish.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2010 at 00:10
cyborg View Drop Down
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You will notice there are set screws in the turrets. The windage turret set screws may not be tight. Check them all, that is usually the problem when the turret seems to turn a bit before it clicks.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/03/2010 at 08:53
Lennyo3034 View Drop Down
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Well after a day at the range, and putting about 80 .308 rounds downrange, I am still undecided. The focus/parallax was definitely an issue as moving my head cause the reticule to move, even at 100 yards. The optics quality was decent but not spectacular, although I think this was because the range was 100 yards and 16X was way overkill for it; the 10X certainly would have performed better.

My biggest problem was being able to see the reticule. It is quite thin compared to the cheaper scopes i've used, and i often lost my target because i couldn't see the reticule. I solved this problem slightly by opening my left eye during shooting. Switching to a lighter colored target also helped.

There were other people at the rang, one with a high end nightforce tactical, and another with a swarovski. The nightforce did not seem much clearer than the SS, although the swarovski seemed to be quite a bit. Neither of these were zoomed in all the way to 16 however, and might not have been as clear at the higher magnification.

All in all, the rifle/scope combo did well, capable of 1/2" groups from an unskilled shooter. I really had my eyes on a Nikon Monarch 4-16 or the Millett TRS-1 however, and I can't help but think the adjustable magnification would be nice.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/03/2010 at 09:30
cyborg View Drop Down
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Spend more time getting used to using parallax adjustable scopes. Most people that haven't used them take some time learning to appreciate and use them properly. Bare in mind also that the higher the magnification the more apparent any POI shift will appear (harder to keep the cross hairs on target.) Use a gun vise, or other shooting apparatus to secure the rifle at the range, adjust the parallax accordingly to eliminate error (not according to the markings) Many scopes have no yardage markings for that exact reason the people try to use this as a yardage estimating tool, or set according to the estimated yardage, and it will usually be off when used in that manner. You will note that several scopes only have dots, and not numbers on the parallax knob.
Also, you are correct that the 10X would have been a better choice in a fixed power scope. At least until you have a bit more range time using higher power. Too many inexperienced shooters are drawn to the higher power scopes mistakenly thinking it will aid them in getting better groups, or that it will give them a competitive edge. This simply is an incorrect assumption. You would likely have the same problems with a variable, due to the assumption that you need that higher magnification, and would then have the tendency to stay at the higher power.
It has been my observance that higher power scopes are more for higher experienced shooters, and they generally don't need the higher power to shoot tight groups. Bottom line, is practice, practice, and then more practice. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/03/2010 at 09:42
billyburl2 View Drop Down
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There are very few scopes on the market where the paralax markings actually match the range you are shooting. Paralax should adjusted out, especially since it also up to the individual shooters vision. Did you also focus the diopter correction? 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/15/2010 at 23:59
Lennyo3034 View Drop Down
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The addition of the sunshade has made a huge difference. I have no trouble seeing the reticule now. I'm still a bit confused on how the properly use the fast focus (rubber bit) eyepiece. Right now I just have it set at the most clockwise setting so its nice and tight. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/16/2010 at 00:07
cyborg View Drop Down
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The fast focus is for adjusting reticle focus. Look at a wall that has nothing to focus on. Take a quick peek through the scope, the reticle should be in focus before your eyes have a chance to correct. If the reticle isn't crisp, adjust the fast focus, and repeat the procedure until there is no correction time needed.

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