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Slipping the turrets after initial zero

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/14/2016 at 03:08
Waldog2 View Drop Down
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Hey fellow shooters,
 
I just bought a SWFA SS 10x42 mil/mil(mounted on my ruger precision rifle) and was curious about slipping the turrets after I get it zeroed in at 100yds.
 
Are the elev/wind turrets spring loaded? Meaning, if you lossen the set screws to retun the turrets down to 1 on the scope for a 100yd zero, do you need to apply any inward pressure so the turrets and setscrew are in contact with the reticle gears? A man on another forum had some issues with his turrets being "loose" and not having any noticeable clicks after loosening the set screws and readjusting them.
 
I'm new to the optic world. Most of my shooting has been with iron's in service rifle matces and I'm very excited to use my SWFA SS. Just curious on what the best course of action was to take after I get my initial zero at 100yds and have a baseline on the turrets so that I can adjust accordingly for longer ranges(500yds+)
 
Salute
 
 
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/14/2016 at 13:50
cheaptrick View Drop Down
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Welcome to Optics Talk.

Establish your rifle/load 100 yard zero. Loosen the set screws, lift the turret covers off and set them back down on zero. Tighten the set screws and your good to go. They aren't spring loaded and are typically loaded with just grease, giving them a little "spring" when you press them down. 
There are 3 set screws. I SNUG each one down a little working my way around until they are all equally tightened. No need to strong arms them. 
Not sure how your friend did them, but I've never had any problem with them not catching. I would recommend him contacting SWFA if he still has a problem.    

You could use "1" if you wish, I guess. Most guys just use "0" though. I do any way.   
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/14/2016 at 17:05
Waldog2 View Drop Down
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Thanks cheap trick! Where do you suggest setting the windage at? It makes sense to place the elev. 0, but I'm not quite sure where to place the windage. Thoughts? 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/14/2016 at 17:10
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Is using blue thread lock acceptable or recommended so the setscrews and turrets won't slip around?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/14/2016 at 17:15
cheaptrick View Drop Down
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I would zero the windage dials too, my friend. Keep it all zero'd at 100 yards, or where ever you want.

No loc-tite. Not needed. 

What caliber is your Ruger? That is a sexy looking rifle.  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/14/2016 at 17:21
cheaptrick View Drop Down
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As an aside, I've never dialed windage. You can use your Mil Dot for that. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/14/2016 at 17:25
Waldog2 View Drop Down
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Originally posted by cheaptrick cheaptrick wrote:

I would zero the windage dials too, my friend. Keep it all zero'd at 100 yards, or where ever you want.

No loc-tite. Not needed. 

What caliber is your Ruger? That is a sexy looking rifle.  

Ok, I was thinking keeping the windage at 5 so its "in the middle" then adjust left right, accordingly. My RPR is a 6.5 Creedmoor. Even with Hornady factory 120gr & 140gr, it's a tack driver! Well worth the wait to get it. Yippee

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/14/2016 at 17:33
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OK. Again, I don't dial windage, so maybe that's a good idea. So long as YOU know where your at, that's all that matters. 
My 10 plus year old SS windage dial is on "0". 

I've never had any problems with the screws not seating and preventing "clicking". I've read about it and just assumed it was operator error, frankly. You made a terrific purchase, both in the rifle, caliber and optic. 

   
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/14/2016 at 17:46
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Originally posted by cheaptrick cheaptrick wrote:

OK. Again, I don't dial windage, so maybe that's a good idea. So long as YOU know where your at, that's all that matters. My 10 plus year old SS windage dial is on "0". 

I've never had any problems with the screws not seating and preventing "clicking". I've read about it and just assumed it was operator error, frankly. You made a terrific purchase, both in the rifle, caliber and optic.

Sounds good and thank you! It's a blast to shoot!  Oh Yea Baby From all the reviews I've read, I thought i'd be doing a disservice if I went with any other scope for my first one. A Nightforce, sure maybe one day, but I'm sold on my SS!! 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/14/2016 at 17:52
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I'll never part with my 10x SS. I use it to "true" rifles and for load development. It's the best $300 I ever spent. (North of Juarez.) Big Grin  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/14/2016 at 18:06
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