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Sighting in Nikon Omega Scope

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 06:22
jsagraves View Drop Down
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I am a novice shooter at best and am getting ready to sight in my TC Omega and scope tomorrow, but have a few questions about the procedure.

 

First the directions read the following:

Place the large target at 20 or 25 yards.

Then fire a shot at this dot from a stable

shooting rest. Unless your scope mounting

system is very incompatible with your rifle you

will hit the target somewhere.

Now for the neat trick! Replace the rifle in the

shooting rest and place the crosshair

intersection on the aiming dot. Without

moving the rifle, move the crosshairs to the

bullet hole.

 

and...

 

Now move your large target paper to one

hundred yards. Enlarge the aiming dot to two

inches with your felt pen. Now

fire a shot and again the bullet should hit

somewhere on the large target paper. You can

repeat the previous technique of moving the

crosshairs to the bullet

 

and...

 

Now for the shooting procedure that will fine

tune the BDC-250 reticle to your load.

• zero the scope at one hundred yards so that

your point of impact is identical to the point

of aim.

• setup large cardboard targets at two

hundred and fifty yards. The target should

be at least three feet tall. Place an aiming

mark at the top of the large piece of

cardboard.

• shoot three to five shots using your one

hundred yard zero. Do not be concerned

about bullet drop. The challenge is to have

a large enough cardboard to catch each shot

and to form a nice group.

• mark the center of your 250 yard group

with a large X using your felt marking pen.

• go back to the firing position and align your

scope on the aiming point and note where

the 250 group is relative to the bottom

circle. Do not be concerned if the group is

not in the circle.

• vary the power setting on the scope to move

the bottom circle to the center of the group.

You might prefer to use the center, top or

bottom of an accuracy circle, your choice.

You now have a 100-yard zero and a 250-

yard zero.

• note the power setting that enables the 250

yards zero and do not move the

magnification ring. You might consider a

dab of nail-polish to mark the spot so you

can return easily.

• move your target to 150, 200 and 225 and

repeat the firing procedure, noting exactly

where your groups form relative to the

circles. Do not move the magnification ring

on the scope. Note the relationship between

the center of each group and the circles and

make simple notes to describe the

correlations.

You now have exact zero information for 100,

150, 200, 225 and 250 yards.

 

If you actually read all of that, I'm very impressed.  My question is this, when adjusting the cross hairs for say 200 yds.  Isn't that going to throw off your adjustments for 100 yds and the 250 yds that you just completed?

It also stated to not move the "magnification ring."  I'm assuming that by doing so, although the distance of the target wouldn't actually move, the perception of where you place the cross hairs would indeed change a bit.  Is that correct?  Again, when you change the magnification while sighting in at 250 yds, isn't that going to throw off the 100 yd setting that they previously told you to complete?

 

Thanks for your input!

 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 13:15
jd1234 View Drop Down
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You have just purchased an awesome scope for muzzleloading my friend.  I have two thompson center omegas, one thumbhole and one composite stock and both have this scope on top.  Before these scopes came out, I never used anything but a Leupold.  I am an avid shooter and have put at least three hundred plus rounds through my omegas in the past few months looking for the perfect load/sabot/bullet/primer combination.  I put up a lengthy post about the setup I am using and will copy it on to this reply.  As for your question, what I would do is sigh the gun in at 100 yards on 9x.  Keep it on 9x throughout the whole sighting in process.  If you think about it, anytime you shoot 100+ yards you are more than likely going to have the scoped cranked up to 9x.  If the shot is within 100 yards you can turn the power down and your point of impact will not change off the original crosshairs, only the circles for the longer shots are altered (and ever so slightly).  The only time I bring my scope off 9x is when the shot is within 40 yards or it is within that last couple minutes of shooting light (in which case you can only see for about 100 yards at most).  Hope this helps.  I would highly suggest trying the load I am listing below, it is VERY effective and accurate when used with the Omega and Omega scope.  Hope this helps you out!

I recently purchased a Nikon Omega scope with the BDC reticle for my Thompson Center Omega.  Before this scope, I have only hunted with Leupold scopes so I was a little hesitant to purchase it and try it out.  Glad I did though.  After about 300 rounds with different bullet and sabot combinations, I have found a load that really works wonders in the Omega with the Nikon Omega scope.  I am using 150 grains of Triple Seven in pellet form.  I am also using a 250 Hornady XTP bullet (not the MAG variety) and the black hornady high pressure sabots.  I have the gun sighted in at 100 yards.  To make a long story short, the circles in the scope work perfectly at 150 yards, 200 yards, 225 yards, and 250 yards.  With a bench rest at the range I was able to keep a 3 1/2 inch group at 200 yards, a 4 1/2 inch group at 225 yards, and a 6 inch group at 250 yards.  Before using this scope, the best I could ever do was a 4 1/2 group at 200 yards and could not shoot past that.  I had the opportunity over the past two weeks to hunt in Delaware and Maryland for the early muzzleloader season.  I was fortunate enough to take five deer over the two week time period.  The gun and scope worked flawlessly.  I hunt out of tripods with gun rails so I did have a gun rest while hunting.  I took two of the deer inside of 100 yards.  Another deer I took at 170 yards.  The final two deer is what completely sold me on this scope and gun combination.  I took a doe at 215 yards and a nice buck at 247 yards (all ranges were found using a nikon legend rangefinder).  The bullet hit right were I aimed both times.  Both deer went about 25 yards and fell over.  If you are looking for a great scope, look no further than the Nikon Omega.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/04/2006 at 23:02
wecole View Drop Down
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Excellent post jd.  Thanks.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/06/2006 at 20:07
Urimaginaryfrnd View Drop Down
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A couple of thoughts here. I sight mine in on 9x at 100 yds then shoot a hole in the 200 yd target by placing the cross hairs on the center of the 200 yd target. Where the bullet strikes is where the second circle is on the BDC reticle which confirms that you are indeed getting exactly what Nikon said you would with a 250 gr sabbot and 150 gr of Tripple 7. ( Cross hairs at 100 first circle at 150 second circle at 200 third at 225 and fourth at 250.)  Keep testing if you want but somewhere in the back of your mind store the information that the bullet drop if sighted in at 100 yds is about 8 inches at 200. You can use any power 3x ,  6x whatever and the bullet drop will always be that same as trajectory does not change so just hold over about where the backbone is at 200 yds  and you should hit the heart using any power. The BDC reticle will only be truely accurate as far as distance hold over at the 9x power, but if you are hunting from a stand with a rest that is what you will most likely use.  Now for the important part muzzleloaders are only consistently accurate if you seat the same powder charge and same bullet at the same depth. To do this you must run a wet patch then a dry patch down the barrel after each shot. If you get a patch stuck in the barrel pour some blackpowder solvent down to wet the patch and it will come un stuck. Then fire only a primer to dry it out. Most important do not ever fail to place breach plug grease on the threads of the breach plug - failure to do this ruins the rifle. 

 

 PS: I shoot at 25 make some rough adjustments to get it on the paper at 100 then fine tune it there.(short version)

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/06/2006 at 23:02
jd1234 View Drop Down
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That is a really good idea of finding the drop off the original crosshairs and making a note of it.  There are those precious moments of last light where I need to turn the power down to "suck" in all the light possible (especially when I am hunting from my stand and the deer comes out on the treeline-it is possible to see the crosshairs clearly but you can not make out the circles).  It would still be possible to take the shot as long as you know the distance and drop.  As for seating the charge and bullet consistently, the importance of it can not be overstated.  If you want great accuracy, you have to clean the barrel with a wet patch and then a dry patch between every shot.  It is a pain in the butt at the range, but it is the only way to go!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/03/2006 at 20:43
jsagraves View Drop Down
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Great input guys, I really appreciate it.  I purchased this combination to use during gun season in Ohio, but ended up taking my first buck ever with my crossbow instead.  I've shot my TC Omega a few times and was using 150 grains of powder.  I couldn't get a solid grouping, so backed off to 100 grains and was getting a group the size of a half dollar at 100 yards, which I was very pleased with.  I'll spend time this spring getting things fine-tuned with 150 grains of powder and practice at 150, 200 yards etc.  I've included a link to a picture of my first buck, that I'm thrilled to death about...according to my rangefinder, it was a 42 yard shot.  Good hunting gentlemen!

 

http://www.ohiodnr.com/wildlife/dow/Photos/PhotoDetailHorizo ntal.aspx?Num=8142

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/03/2006 at 20:55
jsagraves View Drop Down
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Another question...I noticed JD and Frnd that you're both shooting Triple 7 pellets and I've been using Pyrodex.  Is there going to be much difference between the two?  I use a wet patch and dry patch after each shot, but heard from others that Triple 7 is much dirtier than Pyrodex and should avoid Triple 7.  Does the Nikon Omega recommend Triple 7 specifically or just 150 grains of powder in general?  I appreciate both of your input.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/05/2006 at 14:59
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My perspective:  I moved from pyrodex to triple seven and will not go back.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/05/2006 at 21:46
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I would go with Triple 7.  It is what I have been using.  I would have to disagree and say that Pryrodex fouls much more than Triple 7.  Much more residue is left when shooting Pyrodex.  As far as accuracy, I have used both with good accuracy (the Triple 7 is just easier to clean). 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/30/2006 at 10:02
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do you like that scope. does do what they say let me know thinking about getting one
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/01/2007 at 20:14
jsagraves View Drop Down
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Originally posted by blue smoke blue smoke wrote:

do you like that scope. does do what they say let me know thinking about getting one

 

I love the scope...I have a black/blue TC Omega and bought the Nikon Omega scope off of eBay.  I purchased the black one but was shipped a silver one by accident.  I kept the silver, as I thought it looked great against the black/blue combination.  I sighted the gun in with just 100 grains of powder and my groupings got much closer, although to utilize the full capabilities of the scope, you should use 150 grains.  I'll really work this spring at getting consistent groupings with 150 grains of powder, but a 100 yard shot is a gimme.  The most I'd probably ever shoot is 150 to 200 yards assuming I get everything sighted in accordingly.  I don't have the skill set to shoot 200 to 250, even though the gun is more than capable.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/13/2008 at 16:26
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I just bought a tc omega z5 and omega scope. I had it boresighted, but dont know if the adjustments for left right up and down will move the hairs in that direction or move the shot in that direction?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/13/2008 at 19:51
jsagraves View Drop Down
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If you're shooting high on the target, you'll want to move your dial "down."  If your shooting right of the target, you'll want to move your dial "left" and visa versa.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/15/2008 at 20:24
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Silly question, just making sure.
 
thanks
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