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scope mounting/windage question...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/08/2010 at 23:33
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First time scope mounting for me, I mounted four scopes recently and finally made it to the range today.  Three of them are good to go.
 
However I mounted a luepold rx 2 on my winchester model 94 30-30.  I boresited and was way right at 50 yards with the first shot.  However, I maxed out the adjustments to the left, and the impacts were still right of target (not too far though).
 
I'm not entirely sure what the problem is though.  The rear base has windage screws on both sides.  This evening I looked on from behind the but of the rifle, the windage screw on the left side was flush, but the one right side was backed out a few turns.  So I backed out the one on the left slightly and turned the one on the right in a few turns.  Is this likely to correct my problem....or is there something else I need to do?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/09/2010 at 07:17
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Just do what 8shots says belowWink



Edited by SVT_Tactical - August/09/2010 at 09:51
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/09/2010 at 09:46
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The correct method would be to zero your scope by counting the total windage clicks. Say you get 80. Then dial 40 clicks from total left or total right, which should put your windage reticule approx in the center of the scope.
If you can get a laser boresighter or a normal boresighter, then use this for the next bit.
Use your windage screws on the mounts to move the scope to the bulls eye. Do not use the scopes windage turret dials.
Failing the correct equipment, use a big enough target placed about 10 yds or so in front of you and fire a round aiming at the bulls-eye. Then keep the rifle still in a gunclamp etc with the reticule aimed at the bulls-eye and again use the mounts windage screws to move the reticule onto your bullet hole, without moving the rifle.
This should put you on the paper at 100yds and then you can use the normal reticule dials.


Edited by 8shots - August/09/2010 at 09:52
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/09/2010 at 09:52
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Originally posted by 8shots 8shots wrote:

Use your windage srews on the mounts to move the scope to the bulls eye. Do not use the scopes windage turret dials.


Problem with doing that is now you have put your rings in different planes so when you tighten stuff up it puts your scope tube in a bind. 

It is pretty interesting to do that then put alignment bars in the rings and really see how out of whack that makes them.  I dare bet a lot of scope problems come about because of so called adjustable rings. 

Another problem with those types of rings is the front one usually gets locked in by pivoting.  Well again unless you have the correct tools you have no way to know for sure if that one is turned sqaure either.  After I got my alignment bars and saw how it is nearly impossible to get those types of rings square to each other I did away with the sets of them I have.  They are just a poor design.


Edited by supertool73 - August/09/2010 at 09:56
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/09/2010 at 09:59
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I agree that if the scope base mounts are a lot out of alignment then this can cause problems. But if Pass Thru has originally set the rear base up wrong through backing in one side screw more then the other, then this should fix that.
However if the problem is more a situation of a crooked base or crooked  tapped holes etc, well then a different fix is required.
 
Care must also be taken to loosen the front mount on the base, so that the whole scope can pivot on the front mount.


Edited by 8shots - August/09/2010 at 10:02
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/11/2010 at 01:23
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Pass-thru, before you do anything, make sure the bases are straight and tight. next, does the scope in question have audible clicks? if not you might try the "mirror method" to get the scope at its mechanical center. Place the objective bell flat on a mirror and look through the ocular end... you will see 2 sets of reticles...turn your adjustment dials to overlap the 2, so that you only see one. that will put you pretty close to center on scopes with no "clicks".  next, lay the scope in your rings, do not put on the top halves yet.... does it look straight? can you take it in and out of the rings with no binding or sticking? does it rotate freely? if not adjust your rings until it does. install your tops, boresight using the adjustment on the base to get close, and then finish by using the turret. as supertool73 said, if you use too much adjustment on the base, you will put your scope in a bind. I agree its a bad design.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/11/2010 at 08:41
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If you still can't get the rings lined up correctly after all this info,order a set of Talley's, lap the rings & don't look back.Before I would do anything I would make sure all turrets are turnedup/down to the middle.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2010 at 00:10
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I just ran into the same problem as pass-thru. Had previously mounted a (different) scope with one-pc. Talleys (different set) with no problems. This time, using a laser boresighter, I came two clicks shy of maxing out the windage to get centered on target. Granted, I haven't shot it yet. Did notice, when leveling rifle to square reticle that there was 1/3 of a bubble difference between front/rear ring halves; could mean holes in receiver or rings are off(?) Am wondering how lapping rings could cure problem if scope and rifle bore aren't parallel. Even if a reamer could make them exactly parallel to compensate for uneven bases or bad locating of rifle's tapped holes for them, wouldn't that create oval - not round - ring clamping surfaces? 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2010 at 01:22
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If the bases or receiver holes are badly out, a different fix is required. Lapping should be done only to fix very small out-of-alignment problems.
In severe cases the holes may have to be closed and re-drilled and tapped etc.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2010 at 03:41
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Something else too, that I have become quite a fan of are the Burris signature rings with the inserts.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2010 at 11:32
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I wasn't "geometrically" correct in referring to what isn't a parallelism problem in regards to windage and barrel bore/scope tube alignment, but you got my drift. How can things be off like this with all the modern machining and measuring marvels available? Back in "the day" when I spent many an hour over a surface plate as a machine-shop inspector measuring with little more than a vernier height gage and non-digital mic's, this kind of slacker workmanship would've never passed muster. And I used to walk five miles to school in the snow....Wink
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