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Rings and mount basics?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/14/2007 at 22:32
brdsideofdabarn View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
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I am about to buy a Nikon Monarch and I don't want my weak point to be the mount or rings, so I have a couple questions.  Any input would be appreciated.

1.  Steel or Aluminum

2.  Rings... do you want to get the same manufacturer as the scope? If not, why not?

3.  Base one or two piece?

4.  What type of base? Picatinny, dove tail, quick release?

5.  Do the rings need to be the same manufaturer as the mount?

 ...And any other basic info you think would be helpful.

Thanks

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/15/2007 at 03:33
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What type of rifle??

What model Monarch?

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/17/2007 at 09:42
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Optics GrassHopper
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Rem 700 SPSV .308 w/ a Nikon 3.3-10x44 Monarch UCC Riflescope

 

I was looking at the Burris Xtreme Tactical 1" Rings  because with the 3 screws, they seem like they would be pretty secure, and look like the Badger mounts for 1/3 the price.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/17/2007 at 16:09
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brdsideofdabarn,

To answer your ?s:

 

1.  The quality and design of the rings are more important than the material they're made from.  The Talley lightweights are an example of quality aluminum rings that are still very rugged due to the fact the lower part of the rings are integral with the bases.  However, if it is a heavy recoiling rifle with a heavy scope, unless you go with tactical style rings offering a lot of clamping area, steel rings will be more durable.  For most scopes on most hunting rifles, the tactical style rings don't really offer an advantage sufficient to offset the additional weight.

2.  It is not necessary and in some cases, not even possible to get rings from the same manufacturer as the scope.  Any rings of the proper height will work with any scope of the same main tube diameter, provided you select mounts that work within the scope's mounting length restrictions and at the same time, allow for scope positioning for the proper eye relief.  As long as you select rings from any of the high quality name brand manufacturers, they will work fine.  Just consult the manufacturer or their mount selection charts for compatible bases for your rifle.

3.  1-piece bases are theoretically stronger and provide better ring alignment, but they may block part of the ejection port and to some, they don't look as good as quality 2-piece bases.  2-piece bases are less obtrusive looking and save a few ounces of additional weight if that is a concern, such as with a dedicated mountain rifle.  Either will work fine, and unless the rifle is for extreme hardcore use, where the rifle will take a beating, the 1-piece base strength advantage is basically insignificant.

4.  Type of base is a personal preference.  QR bases are useful if you also have iron sights on the rifle and/or may need to remove the scope periodically for some reason.  Picatinney bases offer the advantage of being compatible with many different brands & types of rings, especially tactical style rings, as well as being offered in long range versions with built in taper in several MOA compensations, but if you're concerned about aesthetics, they aren't very sleek looking. There are so many different base & ring coupling designs that it isn't practical to discuss the pros and cons of each design, but suffice it to say that almost all have both advantages and disadvantages. 

5.  The rings do not have to be from the same manufacturer as the bases if you're using the "Redfield style" dovetail & cam design, Weaver style, Picatinney style, etc., but if you're using such mounts as Warne, Talley, Conetrol, etc., you need to use rings from that manufacturer which were designed for the bases.

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