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ring to base to action alignment

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2010 at 19:51
paulsfin View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
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I just got a Remy 700 LTR and a Nightforce 3.5-15x50 mildot-zero stop mil turrets on a 15 MOA one piece base and NF low rings.
1. My question is this, do the rings need to line up with the base over the base screws?
2. Can the rings be uneven on the tube body?
 
The way the scope sits is a perfect fit for shooting and cheek weld. Does this mean the LTR's comb (butt pad) is too short? Thanks again!
 
 
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2010 at 23:36
3_tens View Drop Down
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1. NO
2. YES
I like to have my rings as far apart as I can get them to increase stability and reduce stress on the scope tube.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2010 at 11:50
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Originally posted by 3_tens 3_tens wrote:

1. NO
2. YES
I like to have my rings as far apart as I can get them to increase stability and reduce stress on the scope tube.
I concur +1
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2010 at 12:13
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Superstool

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That scope looks pretty high to me.  Not sure how you are claiming it offers a perfect cheek weld.  It would be more like a jaw weld than a cheek weld.  A proper cheek weld should hit you right at the bottom of your cheek bone. 

I am not exactly sure what you are asking here.
Quote The way the scope sits is a perfect fit for shooting and cheek weld.  Does this mean the LTR's comb (butt pad) is too short?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2010 at 12:40
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Chief Sackscratch

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A good test to see if you are getting good alignment would be to close yoru eyes and then open them after you get in the ready to fire position with your weapon.  If you can open your eyes and its clear, then your good to go.  If you not directly behind the scope youll know quick.  Also you can get in the ready to fire position and get someone to take a profile picture and see how you are lining up.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2010 at 19:18
paulsfin View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
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Supertool- right, jaw weld not cheek weld and SVT, right, I did close and open my eyes and found myself craning to get in the sweet spot of the scope.
I don't think there are lower rings than .885 though.
Best group of the day was 4 shots, 1" center to center at 100yrds but there were very promising 2 shots always with one, either the first or last to fly. I was very uncomfortable and fighting to stay on point.
Precision shooting very very challenging! I spent 60 rounds today just to find out that I was fighting the rifle the whole time.
 
Should I change the rings or add a cheek rest? After the range, I moved the scope back and switched the rear ring to sit in the last post of the base. Your continued help and advise is very appreciated...
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2010 at 19:57
Dale Clifford View Drop Down
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.885 are nf lowest rings, it's working (sorta) for you now because the length of pull is short and its bringing you forward, to get the entire sight picture. Check into Karsten adjustable check risers, and play around with your length of pull
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2010 at 21:42
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You pretty much have to retrofit with a cheek pad, such as the Karsten. You can't get rings and a base much lower than that. Notice how close the focusing ring is to the base.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2010 at 22:36
paulsfin View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
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Ordered the Karsten bsae from Mr. Hansen, thanks again.

This is probably the wrong thread for this but how do you feel about muzzle breaks? The LTR on a bipod has a very sharp flip when shot! Its def. harder on the shoulder than a 700P also, it's almost impossible to stay behind the scope to watch the round hit.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2010 at 22:38
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You could add some lead shot into your butt stock.  Those stocks are hollow and you can add lead shot mixed in epoxy to add some weight to it to help with recoil.  I have several buddies who have done that and they said it helps immensely with the recoil.

Brakes work great, but they make your gun crazy loud to shoot. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2010 at 23:16
paulsfin View Drop Down
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Supertool, I'm not sure if I want to mod the stock just yet or wait for funds to upgrade. As for the brake, yeah, I was sitting next to a gentleman with a braked 308 and I could feel the heat blast and ring in the ears.
 
So having the rings as wide as the scope/base can accomodate is better for the optics? They shouldn't always be centered on the straight portions of the tube?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2010 at 03:45
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Lord Of The Flies

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Definately go with supertool on weight in the stock. May as well fit a mercury suppresor as part of the weight.
I had my hollow stock filled with wood insert and a mechanical suppresor, allmost like shock absorber. Not sure the suppresor helps, but the weight and better balance definately works.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2010 at 08:18
Dale Clifford View Drop Down
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your stock length of pull and design are the problem, while additional wt may hold the gun for follow through, the drop in the comb is the biggest problem. Also if you are getting behind the the gun correctly - a short stock or lengthof pull makes you pull your head up to get the sight picture, especially in prone, which will cause you to loose the control when the gun recoils, (the reason you're looking at wt and brakes now).
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2010 at 08:25
paulsfin View Drop Down
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How much weight are you suggesting to add? and is it something I can do myself? Supertool, I thought the process of adding epoxy mixed shot was something a gunsmith needed to do so I thought it was going to be a big cut abd chop job, sorry.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2010 at 08:30
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Dale, how is the legnth of pull increased? I'm looking at all options but also trying to figure out the core of the problem.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2010 at 08:39
Dale Clifford View Drop Down
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The best way to solve the problem is to get a Mcmillian or Manners stock, everything talked about to this point is a compromise. The wt, can be added after you take off the recoil pad. the easiest way is to use the small bars used in bullet casting if you can find them, then use filler for the left over space. Length of pull can be increased by using spacers from Brownells.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2010 at 08:41
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Chief Sackscratch

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Normally you can simply remove the buttplate pad and tis hollow.  If not a dremel tool can make you a hole and you just mix it in and let it dry.  You can add LOP with buttplate spacers or even a larger more forgiving buttplate.   
 
I think overall you would be ahead of the game if you just bought a new stock.  manners, HS, B&C, Mcmillan.... all good upgrades!
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