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Rifle painting camoflauge....

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/25/2006 at 22:41
Yotecaller1 View Drop Down
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Anyone ever done it?  I am thinking of painting my rifle, to match the area the I usually hunt.  Does anyone have some good advice, type of paint, know how, how long it usually takes, and how long the paint lasts on the rifle, does it affect accuracy, painting around the scope turrets and the bolt and action, etc.  Your advice would be greatly apprectiated....and does anyone know how to put a pic up on this this forum...I finally got some pics of my rifle and scope and haven't found a way to put it on here.  Says the image is too large, I am no good with computers....again thanks for the advice.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/26/2006 at 04:18
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Yotecaller.

 

I use a company called Hydrographics for all my cammo requirements, i dont know if you have anything similar in the USA.

All the rifles i have had done had to be striped for processing so a full rebuild and re-sight is needed.

I opted for the rubberized finish and have had one for over 5 years with no marking taking place on the rifle and it does get thrown about. I sent the whole rifle except the bolt so everything is dipped and it is a fantastic finish, some are done in plain black, some are realtree pattern and one is in DPM NATO. I couldnt reccomend a better process. Unfortunately the website is down and i keep getting gobbledygook from it but you may try it later for info. Here is the web addy

 

www.hydro-graphics.org.uk

 

 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/26/2006 at 13:58
Brady View Drop Down
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Joe Larson at http://www.larsontactical.com/ is a member here and could give you some good sound advice on the pro and cons of refinishing a rifle.

 

We have a photo galley you can host your picture at here. It will automatically resize the pic to the right size. You can then just copy and paste it in here. Or you can click the yellow square with the mountain and paste the link where the pic is hosted.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/26/2006 at 16:55
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Originally posted by Brady Brady wrote:

Joe Larson at http://www.larsontactical.com/ is a member here and could give you some good sound advice on the pro and cons of refinishing a rifle.

 

We have a photo galley you can host your picture at here. It will automatically resize the pic to the right size. You can then just copy and paste it in here. Or you can click the yellow square with the mountain and paste the link where the pic is hosted.

 

A BIG PLUS 1 ON JOE!!!

 

I wouldn't let anybody else touch my rifle....Joe's good to go!!! 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/26/2006 at 20:18
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Yote Caller,

 

There ae many finishes available for the project you have decided to undertake. There is nothing extremely difficult about it. There are two main types of finishes.

 

Ambient cured finishes. These are finishes that cure at normal room temp. The can be had in both single and two part component finishes. I recommend these for camo work or finishes on items that will not tolerate the heat / duration that the thermal cured finishes require (optics, synthetics, plastics, & electronics).

 

Thermal cured finishes are finishes that must be baked to achieve a cure. The temps range from 250 to 350 degrees depending on which product you use. I only recommend the use of thermal cured finishes on 100% metal items.

 

There are all kinds of different coatings, poIymers, ceramic, teflon, moly, and a tone more. Most are about the same but DuraCoat, CeraKote, and KG Gunkote have given me the best results. I could go on for hours on the various coatings, their strengths and weaknesses, best application for each use or coating, etc, etc.

 

Bottom line for what you want to do I would recommend DuraCoat. It is an easy to use ambient coating. It can be purchased in over 80 premixed colors and you can mix the colors to get the desired color you want. It is marketed and distributed by Lauer Custom Weaponry. They have an instructional CD and a good support system should you need to ask questions. They sell kits that have most of what you need to apply the coatings. Last time I talked to Steve he said they were going to market a prefab kit that included the coatings, templates, airbrush, & some kind of propellant for around $120.00. Their website address is: http://www.lauerweaponry.com

 

To do this you will need access to a airbrush, the coating, a template, and a person with a blast cabinet. In a nut shell here is what you need to do:

 

1. Disassemble as much as you can or take it to your local smith and have it 100% disassembled.

2. Totally clean all parts to be coated

3. Media blast all parts with 120 grit alum oxide (dont use sand or plastic beads)

4. Mix the coating a good rule of thumb is 4 TBL SPNS of coating to 1 tsp of hardener.

5. Lightly spray the coating using smooth even passes until you get complete coverage.

6. Let sit overnight then apply the camo templates.

7. Repeat steps 5 & 6 until you use all the colors you want.

8. Let sit overnight then remove the templates

10. Wipe off tape residue with mineral spirits and its done. The rifle will be able to be used after it sits overnight but wont reach a full cured or hardness for 3 to 4 weeks.

 

 When done it will look good and have better wear and abrasion resistance than a park or bluing job. Most of the coatings unless abused will last the lifetime of the weapon. If you would like to see some different patterns and color schemes on rifles visit my website: http://www.larsontactical.com

 

Good luck and post some photos when you get her done.

 

Here is what a DuraCoat camo job looks like:

 

 

Joe

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/27/2006 at 15:16
lucznik View Drop Down
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Although I'm sure it won't last quite as long as the above described option nor does it look as high-tech and fancy, I have has a lot of success with some much more common and economical materials.  In total, the materials to do this job cost me only about $15. This picture includes a rifle that I camoflauged about 5 years ago.  After all that time, there is only the smallest amount of wear starting to show.

 

 

What you will need are:

 

One can of spray on primer paint - any color will do, but just for kicks, I use rust.

 

Hunter's Specialties (HS) Camo spray paint.  This comes in three colors: green, brown, and tan.  You will want one can of each.

 

One roll of nylon para-cord.

 

One roll of painter's masking tape.

 

Two packets of leaf-shaped stickers. You get these from scrapbooking shops. I use the the SP-MH-07 Metallic Leaves from Stickopotamus. You can actually use any shape sticker you want just as long as you ensure that the stickers you choose meet two criterion:

1. They are not paper-based. You want plastic stickers.

2. They are cut to the exacting shape that you want (i.e. no border along the edges.)

This camo job can be accomplished without taking your rifle apart and if you are not comfortable with the mechanics of taking apart and putting back together your gun, I would recommend leaving it intact.  If you are comfortable with taking your gun apart, then do so.

 

You begin by using the painter's tape and covering up anything that you don't want to get paint on.  Take special care when covering your scope's optical glass so as not to scratch it and make sure you cover up the scope's adjustment ring(s) so you will be able to see/use them later. If you have taken the rifle apart, you may want to use lunch baggies, etc. to help you cover up the rifle's action and trigger assembly, etc.

 

Now you want to hang the rifle in the air.  If you have taken the rifle apart, run the para-cord through the barrel to hang it and hang the stock from the sling swivels.  If you left the rifle together, just hang it from the sling swivels. (You will, of course, want to have removed the sling for this activity.) 

 

Following the directions on the can, paint the rifle with the primer and let it dry completely.  This can take anywhere from several hours to a couple of days, depending on the ambient conditions (temperature, relative humidity, etc.) The point is that you should not go on to another step until there is absolutely no tackiness left in the paint.

 

Once the gun is totally dry, paint it again with one of the three camoflauge colors.  Again, wait until it is completely dry.

 

Once dry, take one of your packets of stickers and place them all over the rifle (stock, barrel and scope.) Now paint the gun again with the second of your three colors.

 

Once dry, take your second packet of stickers and place them all over the rifle. Now paint the gun yet again with your final color.  This will be most prominent color on the rifle so choose the order in which you paint carefully.

 

Let the rifle dry one final time.  Once it is completely dry, take a small, sharp knife and using the point of the blade, pull off all of the stickers.  They will come off leaving a nice leaf shape of different colors. 

 

You should be aware that this technique does not work as well on scopes with a gloss-finish (the paint doesn't stick as nicely.) Matte finish is best. I usually wait 24 hours between coats, which means the completed job for me usually is about 4 days, though actual time working comes to only 3-4 hours.  Most of this is just time spent waiting for paint to dry.  As I mentioned, the camo job on this gun is about 5 years old and it is still intact so, longevity is not really a problem.  If it ever does wear down too much, I'll just spend another $15 and redo it.



Edited by lucznik
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/27/2006 at 19:00
Yotecaller1 View Drop Down
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Thank you guys for the advice, I'll have to make up my mind here within the next couple weeks.  BTW, both rifles look great!

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/02/2006 at 22:43
Garrand View Drop Down
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I had my rifle Mil-spec coated black. When I want to get tactical, I slip on a gillie. You can make several cheap for what ever terrain you are in. I have 3, summer/winter woodland, and desert. 
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