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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 18:51
koshkin View Drop Down
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Not surprisingly, it turned out that my wife has a hard time working the slide on my semi-auto handguns.

With that in mind, I am considering getting a revolver for a house gun.  I do not know jack$hit about revolvers.  Any suggestions?  Who makes a good revolver?

Originally I wanted to stay with a caliber I already have, but the only 45ACP revolvers I saw are S&W and they are pretty expensive.  Are they worth the premium?  If I go with 357Mag/38Special, S&W is still a fair bit more expensive than Ruger or Taurus.

Is it worth the price difference?

Thanks.
ILya
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 19:10
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Tagged.

I don't know much about wheel guns either.

 

All I know is a couple of S&W I fired felt real good and had nice accuracy.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 19:11
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koshkin,

 

for once my friend I can offer you advice...usually its the other way around.  S&W have the best trigger of them all, it is one of the reasons why people buy S&W.  Taurus, made in Brazil, pretty much copy everything, sometimes offer something new but in this case nothing really note worthy IMO, trigger pull will not be as nice but will be OK.  They offer good value and quality sometimes skiping a step here or there. Ruger, IMO, is a fantastic manufacture.  Thier products are built to last but I feel they are often not quite as fine tuned as other manufaturers and are somewhat blocky but are the most durable IMO.  They are almost always assoicated to heavy trigger pulls however.  For a defensive weapon, trigger pull shouldnt be an issue as it would most likely be close range and would definitly need to be intended, durablity......how many of us have actually worn a revolver out...seriously.  If you have the money the S&W will make you the "happiest"  the other two are toss up really but one is made in America, which currently isn't under a crazy leftist President and allows more freadom in firearm ownership.  I would suggest going to a Sportsmans warehouse or some place that stocks all three and compare them side by side.  You will know which you prefer as I am sure I just started a Ford vs Chevy type thread.  If you want a cheap S&W .38 J&G Sales in Prescott, AZ has used police guns with fixed sights for around $250-300 if you wanna check that out. http://www.jgsales.com/  Let us know what you decided.  Thanks for all your past posts, I really do admire your knowledge

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 19:22
koshkin View Drop Down
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Thanks for your kind words.

I looked at a few and the one that I really liked was a S&W with a 5" barrel on a small frame (J-frame, perhaps? I havn't yet figured out all the different S&W frames).  Since it is a house gun, I do not need a snubby, but it is nice to get something that is not too big for my wife's hands.  Once I learn a bit more about revolvers, I'll take her to the store to see how they fit in her hand.

I really liked the grip on Ruger GP100, personally.  Hogue rubber grips that S&W uses on their larger revolvers do not fit my hand well, but rosewood grips are pretty comfortable.

Trigger pull is not a major concern unless it is really god-aweful.  How do double action trigger pulls compare between Ruger and S&W?  Also, if I want the trigger tuned, how much does it normally run?

Thanks.
ILya
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 20:05
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Kosh, samhill79 has pretty much hit the nail on the head. S&W makes the nicest wheelguns IMO and in many others I'm quite sure. Something in the 38 class would probably be best for the wife being able to shoot "wadcutters" for practice. The last thing you want is for her to feel uncomfortable shooting something with a lot of muzzle jump and loud report, which is where the wadcutters come in. I am not aware of any police agency that wore out a S&W wheelgun or any other duty/carry gun for that matter. It is not that hard to lighten the trigger pull on a S&W either and you could probably do this yourself. I also feel that the S&W's respond best to any type of smoothing or lightening of the action. Just as a FYI, I have sold many Beretta auto's to folks wanting something along the same lines as yourself. Never had a customer come back bitching.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 20:26
koshkin View Drop Down
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I do not know about Berettas, Roy.  I used to absolutely detest them, now I simply do not like them.  They do not feel good in my hand, and every time I rent one at the range it jams (I've tried a few different ones).  I know people like them, but they just do not work well for me.

I'll look into S&W revolvers a little more intently.  Does it matter much which frame size I go with?  Is trigger reach very different between different frames?

Thanks.
ILya
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 20:52
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If you are looking for a 38/357 you would be getting a medium frame or what they used to call K frames for the 38's. That size would probably be best suited for smaller hands. You would need a fairly decent size mitt to feel comfortable with the large frame S&W's or what I believe they use to refer to as N frame. I mention the previous designators, K/N in case you want to research they somewhat. I would stay away from any of the small frame revolver's not because of strength, just recoil/muzzle jump.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 21:09
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I think that they make semi-autos for ladies that don't want to pull the slide back, such as the beretta tomcat.

 

I thought you should know (if you don't already) that a revolver that shoots semi-auto cartridges (ie 45 ACP) has to hold the cartridges in the chambers, which is difficult with a rimless case. so what they use are called moon clips, not speed loaders, but essentially like having a detatchable magazine for a revolver. You can load as many moon clips as you want at home, and when you load the gun, the whole clip fits in the cylinder, and when reloading the old clip is taken out and another can be simply dropped in. I think it eliminates several annoying traits you find in revolvers.

 

you would usually want a J frame for one handed shooting and a K frame for shooting two handed, and shooting an X frame will always require two people, or one tuff marine

 

Oh and if you think cleaning any sort of weapon is difficult and tedious, just wait

 

 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 21:29
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I mostly concur with what has already been posted. 

 

S&W offers the highest quality revolvers available.  Their triggers are fantastic and would only need work if you were going to be participating in active competition. Currently I own three S&W revolvers (a J-frame .22lr, a J-frame .357 mag, and an L frame .357 mag) and their triggers out of the box are as good or better than any of the "slicked-up" triggers I have felt on various custom semi-auto pistols.

 

My J-frame M60 has a five shot cylinder, a 3" barrel, and adjustable sights. It is a great general field gun and is very easy to carry/conceal.  It's a bit bigger than a snubbie but, the extra barrel length helps with accuracy as do the adjustable sights. Recoil is pretty tame with .38s and is O.K. with standard .357 mags.  But, it is pretty stiff with heavy .357 loads.

 

My L-frame M686+ Mountain Gun is interesting because it has an N-Frame (Large) cylinder with K-frame (Medium) sized grips. It holds 7 rounds and sports a 4" barrel with adjustable sights.  It would be my choice for a "home gun." Recoil, even with heavy loads, is very manageable and is basically non-existent with .38s.

 

Rugers are also very good guns though, they are constructed with a bit less finesse.  They are however, tough as tanks. Triggers on all Rugers are pretty poor. Taurus guns have never impressed me.  I've owned three and have later sold all but one of them off. The only one I've kept is a small .22lr auto.  It's pretty good for a pocket gun but, it is terribly inaccurate beyond about 10 yards. If you're on a seriously restrictive budget, Taurus is a viable option.  But, if you can afford to spend a bit more, Ruger or S&W will be your best bets.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 21:31
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Originally posted by Anthony Anthony wrote:

...if you think cleaning any sort of weapon is difficult and tedious, just wait

 

Would you explain this comment better?  I'm not sure what you mean but, my revolvers are some of the easiest, quickest guns to clean that I have ever owned (and I've owned more than my fair share.)

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 21:50
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I am talking about the powder residue that results from the gap between the cylinder and the barrel, all the little places that are extremly difficult to reach get most of the fouling, and then you have to decide which tool will actually do something to it, without taking the finish off.

 

if you have some other sort of system that works, I am begging you to tell what it is!!!!!!

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/02/2006 at 22:38
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I suspect one of two things is happening here as I don't have this problem to the degree you imply you are:

 

1. You are shooting a lot more rounds out of your revolvers than I am.  (Probably pretty likely.)

 

2. I am way too obsessive-compulsive and clean my guns too often.  (Also highly likely.)

 

I clean my guns after every outing where any shots are fired. I also clean them every so often just because I need something to do. Aside from basic tools like bore brushes, bore cloths, etc. I generally use an old, stiff toothbrush and liberal amounts of guncleaner (usually Hoppes #9) to get into all of the nooks and crannies of the gun. For the bore, I like to use Barnes' CR-10 as it is the best product I've found for getting the copper from jacketed bullets out. At least once a year I also remove the screws and side plate and give the internals a good scrubbing and then lubricate everything with a dry lubricant (Remington's spray-on "Rem-Drilube.") I don't care for gun-oils because they can attract and hold dust. Using this method I just haven't had any problem with powder residue (or anything else) building up anywhere.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 01:13
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Thaks for the information gentlemen.  I'll look at S&W more closely.  It sounds like I should look into getting a 686 or something similar.

As for the recoil, I fired an X-Frame 500Mag once (with 4" barrel, I think).  I am obviously not a marine, since I immediately returned the gun with a few choice words.  As background info, I am 6 ft tall and weigh 260lbs.  I've been involved in martial arts of all sorts, starting with judo and kung-fu and last few years - muay thai, for a little over twenty years.  I fought a fair bit as a junior back in Russia with reasonable success and a little as an adult under a few different rules.  I am not new to pain.  That bloody handcannon is way too much for me.  I can't imagine hating anyone or anyting enough to subject myself to that recoil and muzzleblast again.

ILya
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 08:16
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Indeed there should be a second pistol grip under the barrel.

 

I shoot about 300-500 rds per session (once every two or three months, just to keep my home protection skills in check), and clean as soon as possible, and it takes a total of 2 days for everything to finish soaking . and then 2 or 3 fricken hours of using nylon and sometimes brass wire brushes. and it never all comes off.

 

 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 09:54
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Koshkin,

Going to get alittle out in left field here, but my wife has the same problem.

While I did get her a S&W 686, we did a couple other things also.  Taught her to use a pump shotgun, but inside the residence it's
cumbersome, she's small in stature and a 12 guage with 00 shot isn't really viable.

Ultimately I got her up to speed in using an M4 carbine.  With a collapsible stock, aimpoint, 16 inch barrel and a 20 round magazine it offers
all the pluses of a revolver, is easily handled and transitioned to ( pistol grip to pistol grip ), need not activate the aimpoint to use, more stopping power , more rounds loaded and less through wall penetration to endanger inoccent neighbors.

Just something to think about. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 10:45
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Another vote for the S&W model 60 5".  It's pretty much a LadySmith with a few changes.  I bought one for my wife and it has worked out well.  I sarted her out with .38 Specials and she worked up to medium .357 Mag lods pretty quickly.  I keep it loaded with .38 +P for the house.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 11:47
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I looked up the specs on various S&W revolvers.  It is interesting that all of the ones of interest to me are pretty heavy wuth the 5" model 60 being the lightest at 30ozs (still sufficiently heavy, I think).  The part I like about model 686+ is that it is a sevenshooter, while model 60 is a fiveshooter.  Looking at medium frame revolvers I see a model 620 and 686+.  Both are seven-shooters.  Are the only differences between them the weight of the barrel and the length of the lug?

Another question: since concealment is not really a consideration here, does it make sense to go with a longer 6" barrel on a medium frame revolver?  Is there a large difference in muzzle blast?

Thanks.
ILya
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 11:59
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Originally posted by Mike McDonald Mike McDonald wrote:

Koshkin,

Going to get alittle out in left field here, but my wife has the same problem.

While I did get her a S&W 686, we did a couple other things also.  Taught her to use a pump shotgun, but inside the residence it's
cumbersome, she's small in stature and a 12 guage with 00 shot isn't really viable.

Ultimately I got her up to speed in using an M4 carbine.  With a collapsible stock, aimpoint, 16 inch barrel and a 20 round magazine it offers
all the pluses of a revolver, is easily handled and transitioned to ( pistol grip to pistol grip ), need not activate the aimpoint to use, more stopping power , more rounds loaded and less through wall penetration to endanger inoccent neighbors.

Just something to think about. 


While I own a shotgun (Remington 870), I also have neighbors.  Overpenetration is a concern.  Besides, before I teach anyone to use a shotgun properly, I should really learn to use one properly myself. 

As for the M4, here in California, my chances of legally getting an M4 with collapsible stock, high-cap magazines, etc., are roughly equivalent to your chances of abandoning your guns, joining Greenpeace, and giving every piece of botanical shrub in the neighborhood a heartfelt hug, Mike.

ILya

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 12:46
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Koshkin,

 

If you're considering bigger revolvers look at the S&W 627.  This is what I carry.  It's a Performance Center gun, 8 shot, can be used with or without moon clips (I like the clips), perfect trigger, and a smaller grip on a large frame.  They are a bit more, of course.  Usually around $900 or so.  It is a very fine weapon.  I've taken a good bit of game with mine, from rabbits up to deer and good sized hogs.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 13:49
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joining Greenpeace, and giving every piece of botanical shrub in the neighborhood a heartfelt hug

ROFLMAO  Oh man that was too good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 13:57
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Originally posted by Mike McDonald Mike McDonald wrote:

joining Greenpeace, and giving every piece of botanical shrub in the neighborhood a heartfelt hug

ROFLMAO  Oh man that was too good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   


Thank You.

I was just trying to convey what it feels like living in Southern California.

ILya

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 14:11
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Originally posted by koshkin koshkin wrote:

...since concealment is not really a consideration here, does it make sense to go with a longer 6" barrel on a medium frame revolver?  Is there a large difference in muzzle blast?

Thanks.
ILya

 

No, 6" barrels are quite a bit more unweildy.  They are great on a hunting gun where you want to both maximize velocity and sight-radius but, for a general field gun and home defense weapon, the 4" barrel is a better choice.

 

The level of muzzle blast is not really significantly affected.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 14:26
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Hey ILya, don't feel so bad, it could be worse. You could live in NJ. Here when you want a handgun you have to apply for a handgun purchase permit for each purchase. OK, so you go down to the local PD and meet with the Chief of Police where he has the right to interview you. Depending on what side of the bed he rolled out of that day it can be sh*ttcanned that day. If not, you wait approx. 3 months to get the purchase permit. When you get the call from his Majesty, you rush down to the store to make the purchase and wipe the drool of the counter tops only to find out that yet another roadblock awaits you, the "instant background check". Usually only takes an hour or so, but can take another 3 days. Now, I don't know about you, but, isn't it retarded to have to go through another background check when you just left the Chief of Police's office. Naturally, you could have held up a 7-11 or a WaWa on your way to the gun shop, been caught, arrested, tried and convicted and your arrest record would reflect this all in a matter of 20 minutes. Of course, the background check is not free either. I guess they never figured this process could send the most stable of mental fortitude over the edge.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 14:59
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Hearing all this makes me feel somewhat embarrassed at my good fortune.

Here in Texas a 22 rifle is issued at birth. 

You have wait until age 9 for  your 1st deer gun.

 When you get pulled over on a traffic stop the cop looks disappointed and runs your plates if you tell him "No sir, I don't have a gun in the car".
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2006 at 15:45
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[QUOTE=Mike McDonald]

 When you get pulled over on a traffic stop the cop looks disappointed and runs your plates if you tell him "No sir, I don't have a gun in the car".
[/QUOTE}

 

I just saw this thread, this is to funny Mike, Koshkin what you said about the treehiggers overhere is so true.

I have owned two revolvers  The Ruger had the strongest frame IMO and best weight for recoil. S&W is

also very nice but I slightly preffered the Ruger, I have sold them and do not own any revolvers any more.

They were 44 mags.

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