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Removing barrel

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 15:00
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Chief Sackscratch

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How hard is it to remove a barrel from a Win 70 LA and then re-install it?  I've never done it before and don't really know what tools are required or needed either. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 15:33
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I'll first say that in my opinion, it is not a job for shade tree mechanics (that includes me). However, you would need a heavy duty vise, a barrel wrench (specifically designed for barrel removal) , headspace gages (go and no-go gages) and possibly a heat torch if it's stuck on there.
 
 
PS. I know this is a stupid question, but why do you want to remove the barrel ?


Edited by Roy Finn - January/19/2011 at 15:35
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 15:47
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 15:54
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Added a barrel nut.  That is pretty cool, would make barrel changes easy.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 15:58
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Well now I dont' need to.  lol  The place i was gonna send my barrel to have it fluted had on the net it couldnt be on a reciever, when i called they said for an extra $20 theyd remove it and reinstall it with a headspace gauge so I'm good now.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 16:01
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I've removed and installed several barrels.  It isn't hard to do if you have the right tools. 
As Roy stated, you will need a barrel vice along with tapered bushings for the vice, rosin, anti-seize grease, and an action wrench.  If you don't have bushings for your barrel taper, you can make some with aluminum inserts and some bedding compound.  Buy an action wrench with a long handle so you have plenty of leverage and securely mount your barrel vice to a sturdy surface.  You won't need headspace gauges IF you're reinstalling the same barrel you removed.  Just make sure you stamp an index mark on the underside of the barrel next to the receiver before you remove it so you will index it to the same location and ensure the same headspace when you retighten it.  Make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize before reinstalling.
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 16:01
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 Simple, trade it in for a Savage model 110, buy a barrel nut wrench and change whenever you want,to whatever you want.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 16:41
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In the video at 3.25, does the bolt go from being open to closed as the camera zooms out with the no go gauge still in as he tightens the barrel nut?

Edit:

Magic of Hollywood, they were changed during the zoom out.


Edited by SD Dog - January/19/2011 at 16:44
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 17:11
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I have done this before in order to make turning a barrel down for a suppressor easier...  The biggest thing is using a reference or indicator marks some have witness marks that are precise (very very very precise) so that it goes to exactly where it needs to be the head-space gauges are still an absolute necessity for precision and safety 3 gauges not just go no go service...  Using the writing or caliber mark on the barrel is not precise enough...  I have only done it with CZ's and FN's...They both have indicators on the barrel and receiver
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 18:05
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I've done this on a few Savages and it was quite easy seeing they use a barrel nut.  I haven't any experience doing this to any other action, but I would think the process to be very similar, but not a simple.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 19:25
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Originally posted by 338LAPUASLAP 338LAPUASLAP wrote:

The biggest thing is using a reference or indicator marks some have witness marks that are precise (very very very precise) so that it goes to exactly where it needs to be the head-space gauges are still an absolute necessity for precision and safety..


Installing new barrels always require headspace gauges, and it's never a bad idea to use them even if it's not a new barrel.  However, IF you are doing what SVT is doing -- removing and later reinstalling the same barrel on the same action, the barrel tenon hasn't been modified in any way, and IF the barrel has a standard threaded shank with fixed shoulder (i.e. Remington and similar, not a barrel nut, like Savage) -- then the witness mark alignment method is perfectly sufficient without headspace gauges.  The reason being... headspace is a fixed relationship that has already been established with that action and barrel between the barrel shoulder to chamber face length and action face to bolt face length.  With the standard 1-1/16" - 16 t.p.i. threaded shank, you will be torquing the barrel to around 100 ft/lbs when you reinstall it, and you will won't be able to continue turning the action wrench very far after the barrel shoulder makes hard contact with the front of the action or the recoil lug face before you get the index marks aligned.  The exception would be if you continually remove and reinstall the barrel over and over again such that you have deformed the threads and barrel tenon shoulder.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/19/2011 at 22:24
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Originally posted by RifleDude RifleDude wrote:

Originally posted by 338LAPUASLAP 338LAPUASLAP wrote:

The biggest thing is using a reference or indicator marks some have witness marks that are precise (very very very precise) so that it goes to exactly where it needs to be the head-space gauges are still an absolute necessity for precision and safety..


Installing new barrels always require headspace gauges, and it's never a bad idea to use them even if it's not a new barrel.  However, IF you are doing what SVT is doing -- removing and later reinstalling the same barrel on the same action, the barrel tenon hasn't been modified in any way, and IF the barrel has a standard threaded shank with fixed shoulder (i.e. Remington and similar, not a barrel nut, like Savage) -- then the witness mark alignment method is perfectly sufficient without headspace gauges.  The reason being... headspace is a fixed relationship that has already been established with that action and barrel between the barrel shoulder to chamber face length and action face to bolt face length.  With the standard 1-1/16" - 16 t.p.i. threaded shank, you will be torquing the barrel to around 100 ft/lbs when you reinstall it, and you will won't be able to continue turning the action wrench very far after the barrel shoulder makes hard contact with the front of the action or the recoil lug face before you get the index marks aligned.  The exception would be if you continually remove and reinstall the barrel over and over again such that you have deformed the threads and barrel tenon shoulder.


Yeah what he said...

No really that sounds a lot better than my garbage...

Does anyone know if the Win70 has these such punch marks or line indications (impressions)???
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/20/2011 at 02:19
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Roy,
That was a cool video, thanks!
Sam
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