Optics Master Extraordinaire
Rather than continue to hijack the thread on annealing brass, I thought I'd share what I learned and what I decided to do regarding these dies. (If you want the background, refer to pg. 2 of http://opticstalk.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=17865&PN=2)
I talked to tech guys at both Redding and Sinclair. Both told me basically the same thing in slightly different ways as well as providing some other info. I ended up ordering the Redding Type S Match FL die set and a .336 titanium-nitrate bushing. Both assured me that Match was just a marketing term since I expressed some concern about ending up with brass resized for a semi-auto chamber. Since I'm employing the partial-FL resizing technique until there's too much brass flow, setting back .002, the casing will be minimally affected.
The Redding tech had actually loaded .308 Win using Lapua brass (as well as other calibers). He confirmed that for maintaining the right neck tension with that brass the .336 was the way to go and there was no need to have an intermediate bushing to do the resizing in two steps since .009 is not that drastic (my fired brass ends up going from .338 when loaded with a Nosler Accubond 165 gr. bullet to .345).
Once I get some loads made up using these dies I'll post an equipment review comparing them to the standard Redding dies I've been using. The accuracy I've gotten is already quite good but I've been concerned about working the brass too much and how the thicker Lapua brass gets pulled out of shape by the standard expander ball in most dies.
Another thing I should mention: While individual experience may vary, it really does sound like the best way to pick a bushing is to take a decent sample size of loaded rounds (5-10), measure the O.D. of the necks (which at least in my case were all .338) and subtract .001 or .002 to get the bushing size (.002 if you'd like a bit more secure tension).
Edited by jonoMT - June/26/2009 at 20:41