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Recoil absorbing rests,,good or bad for reticles

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/05/2012 at 22:41
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I was wondering if the "double whammy" of a recoil absorbing shooting rest could be bad  news for a scope. Seems to me the scope gets a forward shove as the rifle moves rearward, and then a shove rearward as the motion of the the rifle stops suddenly. The shoulder absorbs the recoil gradually, eliminating the sudden stop. I know caldwell says theirs won't damage anything, but what would you expect them to say.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/05/2012 at 23:24
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I broke a Zeiss Conquest on my 338 win mag using a lead sled.   I don't know if it was the lead sled or not, but I stopped using it.  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2012 at 00:09
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I've had a couple of less expensive scopes go haywire, but I figured it was just "cheap" scopes. Recently my weaver grand slam mil/mil started losing zero. It's not a zeiss, but it is a pretty well made scope. I have a new vx3 on the way, and it's NOT going on the lead sled no matter what they say. Back to the bags !       Thanks for the reply,    Gary

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2012 at 04:29
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I have one, but I've only used it for boresighting and ~five rounds dialing-in on a consistent basis. I noticed there is a propensity for vertical stringing when using it.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2012 at 07:15
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I remember seeing a video of an old guy putting oil on a front flat rest and sliding the rifle back and forth until it was "lubed" up.  He then proceeded to shoot keyholes with it - that changed my phylosophy on how not to secure a rifle when shooting.    
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2012 at 08:53
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I've seen a couple of BR guys dust their front rests with talc as a less messy lube.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2012 at 09:23
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Originally posted by budperm budperm wrote:

I've seen a couple of BR guys dust their front rests with talc as a less messy lube.


I use a little dab of KY warming lube. It helps keep my hands warm during the winter months.


Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2012 at 09:37
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To the OP, bad idea.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2012 at 09:37
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Originally posted by tpcollins tpcollins wrote:

I remember seeing a video of an old guy putting oil on a front flat rest and sliding the rifle back and forth until it was "lubed" up.  He then proceeded to shoot keyholes with it - that changed my phylosophy on how not to secure a rifle when shooting.    

1.  Don't believe everything you see on YouTube.
2.  Maybe he was shooting keyholes - or smaller keyholes - prior to lubing his rest.
3.  If you need a lead sled or other rest to shoot well, you might have too much gun.
4.  When I shoot from a rest, my fundamentals suffer dramatically.


I don't shoot competitive BR, so I cannot intelligently say what works and what doesn't.  Most of my shooting is real-world, from improvised positions, and lots of bench shooting actually makes me a worse shot in the real world.

Opinions vary, but I say practice the shot you will be taking.  If you will be shooting offhand or from the prone and under a vehicle, shooting from a bench won't do much to improve your preparedness.

As the key question is reticle-related, I cannot see a rest causing a well-made scope (in good condition with no factory defects) to fail.  I shoot some heavy hitters with and without brakes, and that is a very traumatic experience for a scope.  If it can handle a 338LP or 50BMG with a brake, a rest should be easy.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2012 at 12:46
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Originally posted by Bigdaddy0381 Bigdaddy0381 wrote:

I use a little dab of KY warming lube. It helps keep my hands warm during the winter months.
 
That's funny . . .
 
 
Rancid - I try to simulate bench and actual conditions. But to the OP, if you clamp the firearm down, get back and let us know how that works out . . .


Edited by tpcollins - August/06/2012 at 12:52
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2012 at 12:59
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Originally posted by Bigdaddy0381 Bigdaddy0381 wrote:

Originally posted by budperm budperm wrote:

I've seen a couple of BR guys dust their front rests with talc as a less messy lube.


I use a little dab of KY warming lube. It helps keep my hands warm during the winter months.


Needless to say it keeps your stick warm too.... Bandito
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2012 at 13:48
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I took the back off my Lead Sled, partly because I couldn't even use it with one rifle. I just wanted to front end though for stabilizing the rifle while sighting in. Anymore though, I just use a bipod and fire prone. The theory being: At best, that's the most stable position you're ever going to get in the field. And you are part of the rifle system.
 
If you're going to stick with a bench rest, I'd take the back off it or get one of those ones that's just the front part and use a bag under the butt.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2012 at 21:47
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Thanks for all the input. I have been using the sled for testing my load workups. I wanted to eliminate as many variables as I could to better evaluate my loads. The model I have is the Lead Sled Solo. I got it when I got the ar15 bug. I will take the advice and take the back end off and use the front part, and a bag at the back. I also have an old Hy-Point "10 ring" monster that has the springs and strap. Looked like a good idea in the ads, but after you get it rigged up, there's no room to get your hand and trigger finger  in position. I don't do any competitive shooting, just pigs at night, and usually resting the rifle on the top of a fence post. Where I live, you don't do "prone" on account of the mesquite, huisatche, and fire ants. Those huisatche thorns that have been laying there curing will penetrate a 1x4 :). I may look into one of  those less pricey mtm rests that doesn't "clamp" the rifle down or limit the recoil. Thanks again,, Gary
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/07/2012 at 19:10
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Actually, if you have one of the better scopes that has the reticle etched into the glass - it won't pound any wire reticles - it will just pound on the entire scope.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/07/2012 at 20:29
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It can be tough on stocks too.  
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