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Rebarreling, lots of pictures

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 02:27
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As many readers like to see pictures I decided to show some rebarreling pictures.
There is many ways of doing things, and those methods used here are maybe not the common ones, but how I do it.
 
First the Machinery.
First machine is a Thörn toolgrinding machine used to make special cutters and some of the action correction work on.
 
 
Storebro Lathe where the majority of the barrelwork is done
 
Värnamo CNC milling machine used for correction of the action and bolt.
 
 
The pictures are not taken during one rebarreling but several, so there is actually not the same bolt, reciver, barrel etc on all the pictures and they do not fit togeter eiter.
 
The action should get "blueprinted" in order to be as correct as possible.
In the past I used to do it in a toolgrinding machine but the setup was very timeconsuming and I couldent do anything about the threads.
 
 
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 02:32
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Optics Journeyman
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In this particular case the threads in the action was damaged while removing the old barrel that had galled to the action. And the action is very hard on the surface so the lathe is not an option for correction of the threads.
Here is the setup in the CNC machine.
In the same setup the threads are recut, the front of the action is recut as well as the locking lugs.
 
After the action have been fixed, the bolt should get some correction.
The back of the lugs gets grinded in the toolgrinding machine to better their surface and correctness, before the final lapping in the action.
 
The breachface was very uneven and the bolt is hard.
So I corrected it in the CNC milling machine with carbide end mills.
 
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 02:46
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In order to get the barrel correctly centered in the lathe I turn out small brass inserts and put them in the barrel. Those are even very helpfull when barrelwork on barrels with finnished crowns should be made.
For smaller parts like this I prefer a smaller Shaublin lathe.
 
 
 
 
 
With the brass piece in place in both ends the shank are turned true with the bore.
 
When the shank is correct I mount it in a Jacobs precision chuck and indicate it up with dials so it goes as true as ever possible. And then the thread are turned out.
 
After threading its time for the chambering reamer, and very important is the floating reamer holder.
 
 
My son is helping me with the chambering, and guess who is the owner of the barrel........well not me........
 
Finally the action is mounted to check the headspace
 
Hope you enjoyed the pictures is here any opinions or questions?
Technika
 


Edited by www.technika.nu - September/02/2008 at 02:51
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 05:51
pyro6999 View Drop Down
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OT TITAN

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must be nice to have all those tools at your disposal thats pretty cool tech
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 06:27
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Optics Master Extraordinaire
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Cool stuff...I'm with Pyro-- lucky to have all those tools
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 06:36
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Awesome stuff. I never use that word except when something like tis comes up. Thanks for sharing and explaining some of the mysterious stuff we rifle owners take for granted!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 07:15
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Nice work technica.
 
I don't have that kind of talent or resources!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 07:55
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Nice work technica.
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 08:43
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Excellent  Excellent photos and commentary!!   Bandito
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 12:31
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Thanks........ I've seen some of those types of machines before at a local smith and wasn't quite sure what they did........ now I have an idea!    I hadn't asked the local smith because sometimes when you get him started, he's hard to get stopped!  Smile
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 16:16
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Technica did that just to make us all jealous. He did a good job too. One good thing with my not having access to that kind of equipment is it will keep the ATF from visiting. There are some things I would love to try that they frown upon. That is a good picture story, start to finish.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 18:09
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Nice post, Technika!  A couple questions:
 
1.  When blueprinting the action, do you ever install bushings on the bolt body behind the locking lugs and forward of the bolt handle to provide a close tolerance fit with the i.d. of the action at the front ring and rear bridge? 
 
2.  Many smiths I know will rough out the chamber first with a small boring bar prior to feeding the chamber reamer so the reamer has less chance of chattering and has less material to remove.  Your reamer will last longer too.  Just thought you might consider trying that.
 
3.  Why is it necessary to make the brass center pilots when truing up the shank end of the barrel?  If you have a live tailstock center, it will run true without causing any damage to the barrel, and besides, you're going to remove additional material in the i.d. of the shank end when you chamber it anyway.  It seems to me you are introducing another potential tolerance stackup by adding the brass pilot when the live tailstock center will true up on the bore anyway.
 
4.  When threading the shank, how come you don't use an inserted toolholder with UN laydown threading inserts?  Sandvik is near where you live, and we use their "R166" style U-Lock threading tools almost exclusively in the shop where I work.  In the long run, I believe that's a less expensive way to thread, if you do a lot of threading, especially since the insert has 3 indexable cutting edges.
 
5.  What kind of single point thread mill are you using when you recut the threads in the milling machine?
 
Good job!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 21:07
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i got another question how much are your services??
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 21:46
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Originally posted by pyro6999 pyro6999 wrote:

i got another question how much are your services??


+1

Very cool pics.  It is fun to see the process.  Thanks for the post! Thunbs%20Up
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 23:40
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Rifledude
1. No I have never installed those.I have considered though to have the bolt plated with "Nedox" that is a Nickel teflon coating that can be had very thick.
But if that should be any idea, the bolt first or after must be machined, cause they are not round.........
 
2.I have roughing reamers as well, I did not show it on picture.
But when it comes to chattering that is not a problem, cause however I do I never have a problem with it. I belive chattering is caused by worn out lathes and poor reamerholders.
 
3.I want the barrel to be centered when turning the shank true with the bore.
One way is my brass inserts, another way is live centers in the barrel.
But in such case I first have to dial the barrel in to recut the angle where the live center should touch and that takes much more time.
When I have turned the shank and put the barrel up in the Jacobs chuck I insert rods with tight fit into the bore that I dial on. And usally I fairly quickly get the barrel very well centered in the lathe. I the centeres caused problem, those would show up here.
 
4. Carbide needs much more speed that it's possible to handle in a manual lathe.
So in my opinion for normal steel there is no advantage with carbide bits for threading ( I have used it in the past) I am making loads of my special tools in house and have always done that. It's fast, convenient and make the jobs running much smoother than haveing to wait all the time for specialtooling to arrive.
When i cut 55degree threads I have a kit of CE Johansson steel tips that works very well, but I havent been able to find those in 60 degree yet so I am using homemades....
 
5. The mill for the threads are a destroyed T-Slot carbide mill that I have re-grinded to 60 degrees thread mill.
 
Regards Technika
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2008 at 23:48
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Pyro
 
I don't make civilan works any longer. My days are full of writing articles and developing new solutions such as sight mounts, NVG mounts etc.
So I give you the same answers as everybody else, I don't work on civilan guns for money, but if you got a nice kriegsmarine binocular or a old classic gun, we can trade...........
 
Technika
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/03/2008 at 06:50
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Thanks for the follow-up response, Technika.  I totally understand.  Again, good post!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/03/2008 at 20:51
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Originally posted by www.technika.nu www.technika.nu wrote:

Pyro
 
I don't make civilan works any longer. My days are full of writing articles and developing new solutions such as sight mounts, NVG mounts etc.
So I give you the same answers as everybody else, I don't work on civilan guns for money, but if you got a nice kriegsmarine binocular or a old classic gun, we can trade...........
 
Technika
define "old classic gun"
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/03/2008 at 21:09
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Great post technika and fine follow up questions Ted.
The roughing reamers are a good idea. The question I have is that the boring bar will give you a truer hole. Reamers follow the existing hole. Boring bars do not. What do you guys think?
I have a few live centers and fully understand the reason for the brass. All the live centers I have seen are steel. The brass inserts are much softer than the barrel and I like the call.
Carbide demands speed and feed................yeah! It is not efficient and cost effective at lower speeds and feeds.

Doug


Edited by tahqua - September/03/2008 at 21:10
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/03/2008 at 21:18
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Originally posted by tahqua tahqua wrote:

The roughing reamers are a good idea. The question I have is that the boring bar will give you a truer hole. Reamers follow the existing hole. Boring bars do not. What do you guys think?
 
Correct.  Boring bars will always cut a bore concentric with the axis of rotation, and reamers follow existing holes.
 
My only comment on the live center is that I think it is all that's needed because the material at the chamber end of the bore where the live center contacts will be later removed during chambering.  As long as you have a chamfered, burr free leading edge to the bore, the live center will true up the barrel just as well for turning the o.d. concentric to the bore.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/03/2008 at 23:04
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Optics Journeyman
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The problem is that the bore have to be dialed in and then have the chamfer cut with a boring bar if the chamfer should be consentric.
If a chamfer tool is used with a pilot, that will not get a true result, and therefor I don't use it anymore for those purposes but using a brass insert instead.
 
Technika
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/04/2008 at 00:27
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Tech. Man I am in awe. You are a handy fellow to have around sir. Thanks for the thoughts, pics and sharing of tips.
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