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Proper way to use Burris rings w/ inserts?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/10/2008 at 19:42
tykemp View Drop Down
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I recieved some rings with 4 "0" inserts, a "+10", and a "-10".

I mounted my scope (a Burris Sig. Sel. 8-32x) with a "+10" in the bottom half of the rear ring.  My gun was shooting almost 2 feet low!  So I placed a "-10" in the bottom of the front ring, with the "+10" still in place in the rear ring.  Shot about 2 feet high this time!  Good groups for my new barrel, about .75 MOA from a totally clean barrel, just way, way off where I need them.  The Burris has only 22 MOA of adjustment so I can deal with the windage with the base, but the elevation has me stumped.

I have been tinkering with the rings at home, and I see that with everything in place, the metal parts of the rings touch, if this happens it would seem the scope wasn't tight in the plastic inserts.  The "+ and -10" inserts seem "extra short" and when in place in the metal part of the ring, don't even fill up that half.  The "0" inserts are a slightly different color and just about fill their half of the ring.  So how should I go about getting my scope secure in the rings?  Do I need to use the "+ and -10 together?  If so then the rings will be touching, and if I use the "+ or -10" at all then the rings will still touch. 


I want my rifle to shoot where I'm aiming.Whacko
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/10/2008 at 20:42
RONK View Drop Down
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 You need to do things in a logical sequence so you know what you need to do next, at every step.

1. Center the scope mechanically. (Count turret clicks from left to right stops and set the windage halfway between the stops.)  Do the same with elevation.

2. Mount the scope using only the four ring inserts marked "0". If you have a windage-adjustable base, center the rear ring on the base, by eye.
 
 3. Carefully fire a three-shot group, preferably at 100 yards, on a large, clean paper target, having a small aiming point clearly marked near the center. It is important that this target be LARGE, so you can find your shots if something is way off.
 
 4. Measure the distance to the center of that group to the aiming point you used, and the direction, using clock-face reference. (e.g. 11-1/12 inches at Two O-Clock).
 
 5.Measure the distance between your front ring and your rear ring, as closely as you can.
 Within an eighth inch is close enough for now, but measure from front edge to front edge of each to get a fairly accurate measurement of the center to center dimension. If this seems strange, I will explain later why this is good to know.
 
 
If you do these things, and Private Message me, I will give you further instructions in this thread, for others to read.  Just be sure to notify me when you get to that point.  I've done this many, many times and can help you, but have to go for now.
 
 edited for continuity.


Edited by RONK - March/10/2008 at 21:04
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/11/2008 at 07:35
tykemp View Drop Down
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I can't shoot tonight, but I can get a quick group in tomorrow, and I'll PM you.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/11/2008 at 18:33
tykemp View Drop Down
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It's too dark to shoot, but are bore-sighters ever "wrong"?  Just wondering, as it looked fine through the bore sighter, then the gun was shooting real high.  Didn't know if having the scope over the barrel a bit higher than a "sporting" gun would alter the bore-sighters performance.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/11/2008 at 19:18
RONK View Drop Down
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 Well, I think there are probably ways to mis-read them, etc. based on the problems people tend to have with them.  I don't use them, preferrring to boresight the old-fashioned way.

 Here's how I would suggest bore-sighting your rifle: (And you can do this at night from your kitchen table if you or your neighbors have yard lights or streetlights.)

 1.  Remove the bolt from the rifle.

  2.  Prop the rifle up in a rifle rest, sand bags, etc.  Look through the bore from the rear, and center a light bulb or other object in it. Object should be 75-200 yards away, not real critical for this purpose. After dark, yardlights or streetlights work well for this, as long as they're not glaringly bright. It doesn't matter that they are not at your level, either. The important thing is a solid prop for the gun. It will take a bit of fiddling to get the rifle solidly positioned with the distant object centered in the bore.

  3.  Without moving the gun at all, look through the scope. This will give you a fairly good idea of where things are. If the crosshairs are within a few inches of the bulb at the distances I suggested, things are probably good. Otherwise, we have work to do..
 
 BTW, do all this discreetly.  You don't want your next-door neighbor thinking you're fixin' to take a potshot at him!
 Also, it may help to turn the lights down in your house to aid your sight picture, after you have the gun propped up...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/11/2008 at 21:02
tykemp View Drop Down
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Well I "think" I have it bore sighted, almost dead on the top of a fence post at about 50 yards.  I'm out in the middle of nowhere, a street light would be perfect, but no lights for miles.  I tried inside, but the scope won't focus and it's still a bit off due to the bore and scope not being on the exact same line, especially that close.  I guess I'll shoot sometime and post how it goes.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/11/2008 at 21:20
RONK View Drop Down
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Originally posted by tykemp tykemp wrote:

Well I "think" I have it bore sighted, almost dead on the top of a fence post at about 50 yards.  I'm out in the middle of nowhere, a street light would be perfect, but no lights for miles.  I tried inside, but the scope won't focus and it's still a bit off due to the bore and scope not being on the exact same line, especially that close.  I guess I'll shoot sometime and post how it goes.
 
 If the bore and the crosshairs are both on the top of your fencepost at 50 yards you should be in pretty good shape, if you are still close to the mechanical center of your scope.
 If you have used up a lot of your windage or elevation range by turning the turrets to achieve that, then you may need to go back a few steps.
 I assume you've mounted the scope using only the "0" inserts at this point in time?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/11/2008 at 21:53
tykemp View Drop Down
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Well the "0's" were  looking good this time so I put the +10 in the bottom of the rear ring, and finally everything looks good.  I have a couple MOA left to go down, but mostly up is left, just what I wanted.  I am using standard mounts so I used the base to get my windage real close.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/11/2008 at 21:54
tykemp View Drop Down
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However, the rear rings are touching.  Just barely though, the scope is secure and tight in the inserts, this will not be a problem will it?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/12/2008 at 06:16
RONK View Drop Down
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If the rings are tight on the tube, it should bo OK.
 The +10 and -10 should be used in the same ring, opposite each other, if you need to use them.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/12/2008 at 16:02
RONK View Drop Down
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Originally posted by tykemp tykemp wrote:

Well the "0's" were  looking good this time so I put the +10 in the bottom of the rear ring, and finally everything looks good.  I have a couple MOA left to go down, but mostly up is left, just what I wanted.  I am using standard mounts so I used the base to get my windage real close.
 
 This part doesn't make sense to me.  Why did you put a "+10" in if the "0"s looked good?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/12/2008 at 19:39
tykemp View Drop Down
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So I would be more towards the end of the "down" range of adjustment so I have as much as possible for longer range.  I counted clicks and I have 175 that actually move the crosshairs, or 21.87 MOA, Burris says 22 which is pretty darn close.  I have 3-4 MOA left of "down" when bore sighted at 50 yards.  I will have enough "up" out to around 800 yards depending on my bullet and load, but wind is gonna kill me if it blows very hard.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/12/2008 at 19:53
RONK View Drop Down
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 I know why you want the scope canted downward for long distance shooting; I guess I just  wasn't understanding the context of that particular sentence.  No matter; it sounds as though you are good to go. I am a little concerned that you have a "0" and a "+10" insert together in the rear ring.  They are meant to be used in sets, ie.+10and -10 in the same ring.  If it clamps the tube tightly it won't be an issue though.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/12/2008 at 21:28
tykemp View Drop Down
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I tried the + and -10 in the same ring, but it was a worse fit.  The "0s" are longer, and grip better with the +10 than the -10.

Thanks a bunch for your help RONK.  This weekend I will either be at an NRA banquet or a 600 yard range to see what the 6mm will do.  Win-Win situation, although at this point shooting sounds better.


Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/13/2008 at 12:47
Ed Connelly View Drop Down
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Originally posted by RONK RONK wrote:

 Well, I think there are probably ways to mis-read them, etc. based on the problems people tend to have with them.  I don't use them, preferrring to boresight the old-fashioned way.

 Here's how I would suggest bore-sighting your rifle: (And you can do this at night from your kitchen table if you or your neighbors have yard lights or streetlights.)

 1.  Remove the bolt from the rifle.

  2.  Prop the rifle up in a rifle rest, sand bags, etc.  Look through the bore from the rear, and center a light bulb or other object in it. Object should be 75-200 yards away, not real critical for this purpose. After dark, yardlights or streetlights work well for this, as long as they're not glaringly bright. It doesn't matter that they are not at your level, either. The important thing is a solid prop for the gun. It will take a bit of fiddling to get the rifle solidly positioned with the distant object centered in the bore.

  3.  Without moving the gun at all, look through the scope. This will give you a fairly good idea of where things are. If the crosshairs are within a few inches of the bulb at the distances I suggested, things are probably good. Otherwise, we have work to do..
 
 BTW, do all this discreetly.  You don't want your next-door neighbor thinking you're fixin' to take a potshot at him!
 Also, it may help to turn the lights down in your house to aid your sight picture, after you have the gun propped up...
 
Now THAT'S going to look GOOD to the law-enforcement types!! A Sniper, in a darkened house, aiming a scope-sighted HIGH POWERED SNIPER RIFLE at Neighbor's house!!Shocked
 
Roll%20on%20Floor%20Laughing    ( Why doesn't anybody ever use a LOW POWERED Rifle to commit crimes??)                                    
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/17/2008 at 17:54
tykemp View Drop Down
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I no longer will use a bore sighter.  They worked "ok" for most of my guns, then this 6mm AI about had me pulling my hair out.  I looked through the barrel, got the scope on and I finally got it sighted in.  It just nicked the top edge of the paper at 100 after I bore sighted by looking through the barrel, but that was good enough.  I brought it down to right where I wanted it, about a .75 inch group, and my knobs were adjusted just where I wanted them!

Not 100% sure how far I can shoot with this low adjustment scope, but I shot out to 600 with no problems.  My only two shots at 600, the divots made by the point of the bullet nearly touched, I figured I better stop while I was doing well.Bandito

Thanks for your help RONK, she shoots really well.Big%20Grin
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