Proper way to mount a scope?

Got my Kahles 2.5x10x50 Helia C the other day off the "Sample List" It is in excellent condition and I am pleased with it! While I am waiting on the Tally Lightweight mounts I thought it would be a good time to find out the proper scope mounting procedure.
I know the torque value for the base should be 25in. pounds.(Thanks to this forum) What I need to know is how tight do you tighten down the rings? I have always been afraid of squashing the scope.....

Thanks

I don't know if Talley spec's any torque setttings for the LW's. Personally, I would tighten them firm in an  X pattern (4 screws per ring). I would be more concerned with equal presure than how tight I could make them. 

http://www.badgerordnance.com/folders/downloads/3/Ring%20Bas e%20install%202%20.pdf

 

http://www.badgerordnance.com/folders/downloads/3/Mounting%2 0rings%20and%20bases.pdf

 

Tighten ring cap screws to between 12-15 INCH pounds. 

Notice the way that the T-15 torx wrench is held. Tighten it up as tight as that will get it and that will be good. 

 

Place the scope in the rings, put on the cap and screws, do not use Loctite, holding the

short end of the T-15 wrench tighten about as tight as you can get it (holding the short

end of the T-15 wrench!) make sure the gaps on both sides of the rings are equal.

Copyright © Badger Ordnance 2002

 

 

The Badger instructions cover a lot of ground and are good to have.

Edited by cheaptrick

Badger's are alot stronger than Talley Lightweights. I wouldn't tighten aluminum mounts (ring caps) as much as steel. Note: I don't know what 15 inch pounds feels like. Firm or breaking a sweat????

Roy Finn wrote: Badger's are alot stronger than Talley Lightweights. I wouldn't tighten aluminum mounts (ring caps) as much as steel. Note: I don't know what 15 inch pounds feels like. Firm or breaking a sweat????

 

I thought 10-15 inch pounds was pretty standard, Roy, maybe I'm wrong.

Good thought on aluminum versus steel.

 

I don't think you are wrong, trickster. Some people really go ape sittt torquing down ring and base screws. I've done it myself.

Thanks yall!
Would you still put loctite(222) on the bottom of the base and on the base screws? Also,am I wrong on the 25in.#'s torque on the base or should I just tighten them until I can't turn it any more by hand with the supplied wrench?

PS. After looking at the .pdf Cheaptrick posted I believe that not using the torque wrench would be best

Edited by Plumbergeek

A rule that they taught us in Tool and Die apprentice school was that socket head wrench lengths are sized according to each screw size. If you start to bend the handle you have the maximum torque you would want for the screw. Looking at my Torx wrenches I find the lenghts very similar to both my metric and standard wrenches.

If you are using something like a Magna set with interchangeable tips you need to be more careful. The screw driver type handle somewhat limits how much you can torque down. If you strip the threads you can try chasing them with a bottom tap but you will remove some metal and lose surface, reducing the amount of torque the tapped hole can handle.

I don't use LocTite anymore and my .375 H&H has been holding for years. If you decide to use it, go with 222. It will allow you to break small screws loose without damaging threads.

Very important is to have clean screws and hole threads. A blow off can remove debris and an aerosol solvent will remove grease and oils.

 

Good luck

http://www.opticstalk.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=868&KW=lev el

 

Typically, aluminum rings require less torque than do steel rings, on the order of 5 to 10 lbs. per square inch.  But, I like Finn have done it by hand a couple hundred times or more with steel and aluminum rings, to include the Talley rings, that it has become second nature.  Tahqua brings up some very good points.  I have always read, that with the typical allen or torx wrench that is supplied with rings and bases, that if you exceed 15 to 20 lbs. per square inch, they will start to bend.  I have never had that happen and I tighten them pretty good.  I just bought a Wheeler torque driver, mainly for stock work and other areas for custom rifle building, but thought I would put it to the test for the next few scopes and see how close I am coming to the recommended values.  Nevertheless, I have never crushed a scope, or had one come loose.

There are many other aspects of mounting a scope.  From zeroing the reticle, lapping the rings (unless they are Warnes, S&K or Conetrol, my opinion), to leveling the reticle and everything in between, that can be done or not done, depending on how obsessive you are about doing the job.  Please give some specifics, as to what you would like to know and how knowlegable you are on the subject (i.e. have you had any experience).

Edited by Dolphin

On this subject (mounting) it would be interesting to get different folk's opinions of things such as loctite etc. I notice that Badger recommends against it. Personally, I am a big fan of blue loctite for mounting rings and I haven't ever had issues with threads stripping out. I also often put a extremely thin layer (wiped on with a damp bore patch) of loctite under bases and on the inside surface of rings. I have had good luck with this as a way to increase the friction between the mount and the receiver and the scope and the rings. Sure it leaves a bit of residue, but that is easy to clean up and it seems to do an alright job of keeping moisture out from between the mating surfaces.

Of course, I know other folks who hate the stuff. As they say, your mileage may vary.

Gentlemen, I just received an email from Talley and they recommend the following for the LW's.

 

25in lbs in the gun

17in. lbs in the cap screws

 

Edited by cheaptrick

I have read 15 lbs. per square inch for aluminum rings and 25 for the mounts, even steel.  I will check with Warne, since I exclusively, at least almost, use their products.  I know they have their T-15 torque wrench, which breaks at 25, which is what I would assume they recommend for their bases and rings.  Will call them.  By the way.  I never use any loctite or nail polish, ever. Not necessary.  Proper maintenance of your rifle with a coating of oil and light spraying in that area, will keep rust away.  Never have seen a problem after removing a scope.

Just talked to Warne and they recommend 25 and 25, just as I stated.

Vertically split rings are often more flexible in terms of how much you need to tighten them than horizontally split rings.  By the same token, vertically split rings also are less likely to require lapping.

ILya

Dolphin wrote: Just talked to Warne and they recommend 25 and 25, just as I stated.

 

Good to know, but the original poster asked specifically about the Talley LW in this thread, Dolphin. 

cheaptrick wrote: Dolphin wrote: Just talked to Warne and they recommend 25 and 25, just as I stated.   Good to know, but the original poster asked specifically about the Talley LW in this thread, Dolphin.

That is true, but he also asked "...I thought it would be a good time to find out the proper scope mounting procedure".  I just drifted to this point in the discussion.  Sorry.

No apology needed, my friend.

You and I are on the same page....AND in the same great state.......

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks guys for all your input & especially to Cheaptrick for E-mailing Tally! I have many years of installing scopes but I am not a Pro Gun Smith. It's just I now have a Beautiful & Expensive Kahles scope for my TC Pro Hunter and I wanted to make sure I dot all my (i') so I don't screw it up! Plus, I am ANAL about all of my hunting equipment.

Remember what they say...If you want it done right, do it yourself !

 

 

Be sure to post some pics of that rig, my friend!!!

 

Got new member of the "Kahles Cult" now fellas..... 

That scope line has really picking up steam around The OT in the last year.

Me, I am going to the be the big purveyor of Trijicon.

good info guys, thanks!!!

Nicely done, Mike. Good luck on your hunt!

Love the gold rings/mounts! You will absolutely love the Kahles C.  There may only be 1-2 scopes better than that IMO.

ND2000