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Bedding Actions

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Topic: Bedding Actions
Posted By: helo18
Subject: Bedding Actions
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 14:07
I am looking at trying my hand at bedding the action on my 270.  Is it easy to do on your own?  Any tips?

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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON



Replies:
Posted By: cheaptrick
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 16:16
I did my Rem. 700 synthetic a few years ago. Very easy.
I bought a kit off of Brownells, I think.
 
Follow the directions and use plenty 'o' release and you'll be fine. 
Good luck!


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If at first you don't secede...try..try again.


Posted By: Focus
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 16:25
Savage and remington tube style actions are very easy and as CT said a kit from brownells or somewhere would be the place to start.

Focus

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I Can See Clearly Now......<><

If Accurate rifles Are Interesting.....I've Got Some Savages That Are Getting Mighty Interesting......


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 16:45
I have a brownells kit.  I am trying to use it on a mauser 98 military action.

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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: RONK
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 17:07
 
 It's fairly easy, but if you goof up you will regret even attempting it!
 Read the directions twice before you start, set up a roomy work area with very good lighting, and recruit a helper the first time you do one, and you'll get geat results!
 Check it frequently as it cures so if a bit of the epoxy runs into someplace it shouldn't, you can remove it before it sets up. I like the gel kits better than the liquid ones, it stays in place a lot better. If you already have the liquid kit, just keep it cool, and it will stay put well, but take longer to cure.


Posted By: Duce
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 17:18
Here is a good article by a real pro, I have used it and it works great & like CT said don`t forget to use plenty of release.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html - http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
 
Duce Super
 


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Duce


Posted By: Focus
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 17:42
Release and clay are two important things to use.......the action can seem tight the first time you remove it from the stock. Remember to put a couple layers of tape around anything that you want to have a little clearance when the job is done.

Focus

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I Can See Clearly Now......<><

If Accurate rifles Are Interesting.....I've Got Some Savages That Are Getting Mighty Interesting......


Posted By: RONK
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 17:46
Originally posted by Duce Duce wrote:

Here is a good article by a real pro, I have used it and it works great & like CT said don`t forget to use plenty of release.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html - http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
 
Duce Super
 
 
 That was an excellent link, Duce!  I only got through part of it so far, but it's obvious that that guy REALLY knows what he is doing!  Thank you for posting it. Looks like I may have to reconsider Acraglass vs. Devcon for the next one I do, among other things.


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 17:57
Good link, Duce.  Learning alot here.  Wish I could have you guys around to help.

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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: RifleDude
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 18:03
The most important thing to a good bedding job is the prep work BEFORE you ever mix the epoxy.  Bedding isn't hard to do, but there's a big difference between bedding an action and PROPERLY bedding an action.  The latter just requires a little attention to detail and careful prep work.  It is important to fill in any crevices in the action or otherwise mask these areas off to prevent the epoxy from being forced into areas where it may mechanically lock the action in the stock.  I use modeling clay as filler material and also as "dams" to prevent epoxy from traveling in areas of the stock I don't want it to, like too far into the barrel channel forward of the front of the action.  As CT said, use plenty of release agent on the metal, take your time, and read the instructions CAREFULLY.  The stuff is strong, and if you make a big mistake, you can permanently glue your action into the stock. 
 
One thing I also always do is rough up the action inletting surfaces inside the stock where the bedding material will go with a Dremel tool so the epoxy will adhere to the stock better.  I always tape off the front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug to provide a small amount of clearance for removing the stock.  The back side -- the bearing surface -- is the only part of the recoil lug that actually should be touching the bedding.  It's a good idea to go ahead and remove the trigger group before bedding so that no epoxy will be squeezed into the trigger components, potentially locking it up.
 
I also wrap electrical tape several times around the barrel so it helps center the barrel in the barrel channel and provides support to the barrel's weight while the epoxy cures.  NEVER tighten the action screws while the epoxy sets, because you will impart stress on the action, and the epoxy will conform to the stressed action so that the action will be under stress when you later torque it into your new bedding job.  Simply press the action into the bedding as far as it will go, loosely installing the action screws just so epoxy doesn't squeeze into the screw holes in the bottom of the action.  Of course, don't forget to thoroughly coat the screws with release compound as well.  A stressed bedding job will hurt accuracy.  To test whether your bedding is stressed, attach a dial indicator base to the forend of the stock, with the indicator probe touching the barrel.  The indicator should not move more than about 0.003" or so when you tighten and loosen the action screws.  If you do have a stressed bedding job, roughen up the surface of the bedding and add another skim coat of epoxy onto the cured bedding and press the action back in the stock.
 
Before adding epoxy into the stock, mask off the top edges of the stock next to the inletting with electrical tape so it makes it easier to clean off the excess epoxy that squeezes out the top of the stock without risking getting some smeared on the stock finish that you don't notice until after it has cured.  When the epoxy does squeeze out between the stock and action... and it will... use a plastic knife, popsicle stick, or similar object to scrape off the excess epoxy, but wait until the epoxy is starting to become "tacky" so it will ball up better.  Follow-up with a paper towel with a little alcohol or vinegar to clean up any excess that smears onto the side of the action.  Once you have it all cleaned up and no more epoxy is squeezing out between action and stock, remove the tape you used for masking the top edge of the stock.
 
Then, let the rifle sit undisturbed in some sort of cradle overnight.  It can be removed from the stock in about 12 hours or so, but I would wait 2 days for total cure before firing the rifle.  If the stock is difficult to remove, as it often can be, with one hand grabbing the barrel, the other grabbing the stock, try to wiggle the two to see if you can work the action & stock apart.  If that doesn't work, get a WOODEN dowel (so you don't mar the metal finish) and insert into the magazine well opening in the stock to contact some flat surface of the action, such as the bolt race or edge of the magazine cutout.  Using the dowel as a punch, tap it with a rubber mallet, gently at first, then smartly until the action starts to seperate from the stock.  Usually the action will pop loose from the stock with a few good smacks from the mallet.  Be careful not to miss the dowel and hit the stock with the mallet.  If it still won't come loose, try heating up the action with a blow dryer, occasionally stopping to try prying the action loose.  Heating the action will sometimes help release the steel from the epoxy due to slight differential expansion.  If that doesn't work, find a freezer large enough to accept the rifle and keep it in there a few hours.  The differential contraction will usually release the action from the bedding.
 
Once you remove the stock, grind off the excess bedding that manages to run into the magazine recess with a Dremel tool and drill out the epoxy that ran into the screw holes of the stock so the action screws don't contact the bedding and create secondary recoil lugs.  It is important for best accuracy that the recoil lug alone and nothing else bears the rearward thrust from recoil.
 
As for what areas to bed, I have found it's best to bed only the portion of the action in front of the magazine in the recoil lug area (and maybe the first 1.5" - 2" of barrel forward of the action before it tapers down) and the small area of the tang just behind the trigger assy, where the rear action screw contacts the action and not worry about the small area on the sides of the action in the center near the magazine cutout.  This is assuming you have an action with a magazine.  For a single shot bolt action with a solid bottom, bed the entire bottom of the action. 
 
I usually also pillar bed actions when I do a bedding job, but that's difficult to describe here, and, though beneficial, isn't necessary to a good bedding job.  Pillar bedding just prevents the action screws from compressing the stock material when the screws are torqued.
 
Hope all this makes sense -- it's really simpler than it sounds, but it's just hard to describe in writing.  Sorry for the length of this post, but not everything that makes for a good bedding job is covered in the bedding instructions. 
 
Good luck!Big%20Smile


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Ted


Money can't buy happiness... but it's much more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle.


Posted By: Duce
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 18:15
Good advice from Rifledude prep and inletting are what makes a good job, get everything ready and check it before you mix the epoxy. If you need to rush don't do it,Smile put it off till you have time to do it  right.
 
Duce


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Duce


Posted By: Focus
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 18:51
Quote I usually also pillar bed actions when I do a bedding job, but that's difficult to describe here, and, though beneficial, isn't necessary to a good bedding job. Pillar bedding just prevents the action screws from compressing the stock material when the screws are torqued.


Thats what I call a "skim bed" job when working around the pillars when bedding the action, all the savages I do are like this. I prefer my actions pillared and bedded. Ted gives some great step by step advise. Let us know how it turns out.

Focus

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I Can See Clearly Now......<><

If Accurate rifles Are Interesting.....I've Got Some Savages That Are Getting Mighty Interesting......


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 19:15
RifleDude, could you explain more in detail, the process of using the clay on the action?  I just want to make sure I totally understand that part.  Do you just add clay to the spots that you can obviously see need it, or do you put clay on the whole thing and the scrape down to the metal only leaving clay to smooth the whole thing?
 
Also, how much more work does it take to do the pillars?  And how much does it benefit the accuracy?  I am shooting 1/2" groups right now, but would like to make sure the action is totally set in the stock since I did the stock myself.  Just hoping to take care of any imperfections in the inletting.


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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: RifleDude
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 21:08
Originally posted by helo18 helo18 wrote:

RifleDude, could you explain more in detail, the process of using the clay on the action?  I just want to make sure I totally understand that part.  Do you just add clay to the spots that you can obviously see need it, or do you put clay on the whole thing and the scrape down to the metal only leaving clay to smooth the whole thing?
 
Also, how much more work does it take to do the pillars?  And how much does it benefit the accuracy?  I am shooting 1/2" groups right now, but would like to make sure the action is totally set in the stock since I did the stock myself.  Just hoping to take care of any imperfections in the inletting.
 
I press the clay into all recesses where epoxy might end up getting locked into, then wipe the excess clay from the metal surrounding the filled recess.  Then, I apply the release agent over everything, clay and all.  I only press the clay into the visible "problem areas" like grooves, setscrew holes, dovetail slots, etc that have the potential to cause a mechanical lock with the epoxy, not on any other surface of the action.  I also it to make little "dams" in the stock to prevent the epoxy from migrating past areas where I want it to stop.
 
Pillars don't really improve accuracy; they MAINTAIN the bedding's existing accuracy potential by preventing stock/bedding crush from screw torque, thereby maintaining consistent screw torque.  The pillars are not hard to install.  I either buy the premachined aluminum pillars like the Parrish or Holland pillar kits that have the o.d. grooves, or I machine my own out of aluminum or brass.  Turn the o.d. of the pillars 9/16" or so, with a 7mm i.d. hole for the screws.  I like having the grooves on the o.d. so it grabs the epoxy well.  Drill out the existing screw holes in the stock using a piloted Forstner bit that cuts a 9/16" dia hole.  The piloted bit will follow the existing holes in the stock for perfect alignment.  If the existing screw holes aren't large enough for the Forstner bit pilot, drill it to the required i.d. on a drill press first.  Measure the hole depth with the depth blade of a caliper and cut the pillars a couple thou longer than that depth.  Screw the pillars loosely against the bottom of the action, coat thoroughly with epoxy, align the pillars into the drilled holes in the stock, and press the assembly down into the stock.  In this case, after the action is fully seated in the stock you DO want to go ahead and torque the action screws, because you aren't stressing the bedding with the pillars in place since the pillars are floating in the stock holes until the bedding sets up.  You're just sandwiching them hard against the action to prevent epoxy from squeezing its way between the top of the pillar and the bottom of the action and properly aligning the pillars with the holes and the action.  You can bed the action at the same time you install the pillars if you know what you're doing, or you can install the pillars, then proceed with the rest of the bedding. 
 
Hope this makes sense.  There are many different ways to accomplish the same thing, and different people use different techniques with equal success.  What I've described is what works for me personally, the result of much experimentation arrived at after bedding many rifles and comparing notes with others whose work I respect.
 
If you're getting an honest 1/2MOA accuracy from a hunting rifle, I wouldn't fool with a thing, unless suddenly accuracy deteriorates and you suspect inconsistent screw torque is the culprit.


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Ted


Money can't buy happiness... but it's much more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle.


Posted By: Dale Clifford
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 22:38
and don't forget to put vaseline in all the holes!!!


Posted By: Focus
Date Posted: January/03/2008 at 07:46
As a young man somebody told me that......can't remember if it had to do with bedding though......

Focus

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I Can See Clearly Now......<><

If Accurate rifles Are Interesting.....I've Got Some Savages That Are Getting Mighty Interesting......


Posted By: Dolphin
Date Posted: January/03/2008 at 08:37
Curious, what type of groups are you getting with your rifle now?  What type of stock is on the rifle, an old military stock or an updated sporter in wood or synthetic?

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D. Overton


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: January/03/2008 at 11:44
I am currently shooting 1/2" groups at 100 yards.  The action is a mauser 98 military matched to a 270 barrel by voure arms in austria in 1968.  Between that time and the time my Dad bought me the gun in 1993, I don't know much about the gun other than the stock had been cracked and repaired right before I got it.  I broke the old stock (sporter style i think) in 2005 in a horse accident.
 
The new stock is a laminated walnut thunbhole dual grip.  Most of the prep work was done by eld ridge in grants pass oregon.  I did all of the final fitting of the action, barrel, trigger, and guard.  The actio fits fairly snug, and the recoil lug is the tightest area.  Here are a few pics.
 


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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: Dolphin
Date Posted: January/07/2008 at 12:41

Shooting 1/2 inch goups at 100 yards.  I am not sure I would even want to mess with the rifle.  No guarantee that it will shoot better or even the same.



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D. Overton


Posted By: Focus
Date Posted: January/07/2008 at 15:05
No doubt it has a pretty good barrel on it. Sorry guys but I much prefer pillars and a good bedding job myself for the same fit each time you remove the action and replace it. The pillars prevent slowly crushing the stock a little different each time you tighten the guard screws. I don't think it will loose accuracy but do think it will become much more repeatable after teardowns and cleanings. Is the barrel floated now or does it have a pressure bump towards the front? Some euros use the pressure point and tune the barrel harmonics with it. That would in fact have a bearing on future accuracy if bedded.

Focus

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I Can See Clearly Now......<><

If Accurate rifles Are Interesting.....I've Got Some Savages That Are Getting Mighty Interesting......


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: January/07/2008 at 15:42
The barrel is free floated.  Had a bump on the old stock and I couldn't get consistent groups, so I free floated it, and the accuracy came down to what it is now.  Now it has a new stock, but the accuracy hasn't changed.  I would like to be it, just to make sure the action fits correctly and the recoil lug is taking all the recoil and not other parts of the action.

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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: Focus
Date Posted: January/07/2008 at 15:54
Hearing that news I would recommend to at least bed it but I'm also a big fan of pillars also. I doubt it will change the accuracy if the barrel is floated. Good shooting and luck in your endeavor. I also don't know what its like where you are but up here you can get a decent accuracy gunsmith to bed your rifle for about $75. Not really much to spend at all in my opinion.

Focus

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I Can See Clearly Now......<><

If Accurate rifles Are Interesting.....I've Got Some Savages That Are Getting Mighty Interesting......


Posted By: Dolphin
Date Posted: January/07/2008 at 16:11
Good points focus.

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D. Overton


Posted By: sinsir
Date Posted: January/07/2008 at 16:14
just my $.02 - i've only done 2 bedding jobs, both with good results. listen to rifle dude !! use the clay to dam up, or block where ya don't want the epoxy, and use plenty of the release agent .. coat it let it dry, coat it again, let that dry, and coat it again ... no kidding, the epoxy is tough as nails, better safe then sorry. most important - take your time, the better the prep, the better the results


Posted By: Dolphin
Date Posted: January/07/2008 at 16:58
I will be curious to see how your rifle shoots after bedding.  I just thought about it, but your rifle is a Mauser, which means the recoil lug has the front bedding screw integrated into it, which means you cannot pillar bed the recoil lug.  I would be hesitant to pillar bed the rear only.

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D. Overton


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: January/07/2008 at 19:14
Could you explain the problem with the pillar bedding on a mauser?  I just want to understand it.  I was really only planning on bedding the action, but I am intrigued by the idea of the pillars.  Could I bed the action, and then install pillars later?  Could I install them with out bedding them?

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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: RONK
Date Posted: January/07/2008 at 20:35
  I believe that some military Mausers were pillar-bedded into laminated stocks, at least at the tang bolt. In 1942.
 Nothing really space-age here, except the chemistry of the epoxies used. I think you should try to bed the reciever and maybe a few inches of the barrel under the chamber, letting the barrel float from there on out. Just get it centered up as previously described, leave clearance in front of and under the recoil lug by taping it. Forget pillars on this one.


Posted By: Dolphin
Date Posted: January/08/2008 at 08:26
The front recoil lug is where the screw inserts to hold the stock to the receiver, so there is very little clearance to hold a pillar and virtually no flat surface for the pillar to seat on, as the lug is slim and long.  I just looked at the pics. of your rifle and the lug is a bit larger than some I have seen and much larger than many production rifles.  You may be able to get by with a very short custom made pillar, but still, I am not sure you have enough clearance.  In general, I nor do most professional gunsmiths pillar bed Mauser actions, for this reason.  It would also depend on the stock and the clearance available, but the forces placed on the lug that would be transmitted to the pillar and then to the stock, would in my opinion, create a torquing action on the stock that may affect accuracy in the long run.  Just my opinion. 

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D. Overton


Posted By: Focus
Date Posted: January/08/2008 at 08:27
My experience with pillars involve the savages so these guys with mauser experience have more knowledge than I.

   Focus

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I Can See Clearly Now......<><

If Accurate rifles Are Interesting.....I've Got Some Savages That Are Getting Mighty Interesting......


Posted By: Dolphin
Date Posted: January/08/2008 at 10:52
Savage on the rifles that they pillar bed, is just aft of the recoil lug, not integrally into it.  I guess what I am saying is, if you pillar bed with a short pillar into the recoil lug, as you fire a bullet in a high power rifle, you now have a long lever, the recoil lug and pillar bed and screw, to which two forces operate against.  The recoil and circumferential torque in the opposite direction of the bullet spin, that is now magnified by the length of the lever, that would not be the case, if the pillar bedding was not integrated into the recoil lug.

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D. Overton


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: January/08/2008 at 12:51
I think I will just bed the action for now.  I will just have to make sure I don't tighten the screws too much.  Thanks for all the help.

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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: RONK
Date Posted: January/08/2008 at 18:22
 
 I didn't intend to downplay the effectiveness of pillar bedding, it is a great system, but works best on actions with longer screws than your Mauser.  Incidently, the pillar in the rear of the military Mausers that have them was probably installed expressly to prevent crushing the wood and subsequently bending the tang of the receiver if the rear screw was overtightened. I think the front of the bottom metal usually has a shoulder that contacts the bottom of the recoil lug upon tightening the front screw, for the same reasons,.


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: January/08/2008 at 18:25
The front does have a shoulder on it, but the rear does not have any type of pillar.  Maybe I could get or make a pillar for the back so I don't crush the wood or the bed.

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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: RONK
Date Posted: January/08/2008 at 19:38
 I don't know if the commercial Mausers used them or not. All it is is a piece of heavy gage steel tube. I think you should determine it's correct length by assembling the action, magazine well and floorplate assembly outside the stock. The right length will be obvious when the whole works fits together.  Make it a tiny shade longer, so it bottoms out before the mag well does, when the front screw is snug. If you cut it too short, the receiver will bottom out on the mag well and the rear tang will bend, or at least flex as you tighten the screws.


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: February/01/2008 at 18:09
Well, I finally got around to getting some devcon, and prepping my rifle for the bedding job.  Here are a few pics.  I am looking at doing the actual bedding later tonight or over the weekend.
 
 
Will post some more as I do the job.  Thanks again for all the tips and advice.


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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: RifleDude
Date Posted: February/01/2008 at 18:18
Looks like you're off to a good start and understand the importance of the prep work, Andrew!  Good luck, take your time, and don't let anything distract you from your work, and it should turn out just fine!  At this point, you might want to go ahead and stick some electrical tape along the top edge of the stock next to the action inletting so the epoxy that squeezes out between the action and stock will be easier to clean up.
 
Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress!Big%20Smile


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Ted


Money can't buy happiness... but it's much more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle.


Posted By: OLRVRAT
Date Posted: February/01/2008 at 18:42
 I read somewhere ( can't remember where though) when bedding a mauser action they recommend you bed about an inch of barrel in front of the recoil lug.
 Has anyone else heard of this or had any experience with it?
 Good luck!


Posted By: RifleDude
Date Posted: February/01/2008 at 18:48
Originally posted by OLRVRAT OLRVRAT wrote:

 I read somewhere ( can't remember where though) when bedding a mauser action they recommend you bed about an inch of barrel in front of the recoil lug.
 Has anyone else heard of this or had any experience with it?
 Good luck!
 
That's done frequently with a variety of actions, and in fact Helo is planning to do that very thing, as evidenced by the fact he roughed up his inletting forward of the recoil lug and has a clay dam forward of that area in the stock.  I'll generally bed the first 1" - 1.5" of barrel on the straight section right before it begins to taper.  The only actions I typically don't do this are solid bottom single shot bolt actions, where there's plenty of bedding surface to provide good support for a heavy barrel.


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Ted


Money can't buy happiness... but it's much more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle.


Posted By: OLRVRAT
Date Posted: February/01/2008 at 19:08
 Guess i should 've read page 1 of the post. Then you wouldn't have had to explain it twice!
 Sorry bout that. 


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: February/01/2008 at 22:48
Well, I did the deed.  See how it turns out in the morning.  I forgot to take a pic of the stock with the mud in it before I put in the action.  The devcon is nice to work with.  It is like peanut butter instead of runny.  The left over pile sure heated up though.  You have about 45 minutes to work with it, then it sets up pretty quick.  It is plenty of time to do what you need to do.
 
For some reason, it won't let me upload pics right now, so I will post them as soon as it will let me.


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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: February/01/2008 at 22:53

Here are a few.



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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: February/01/2008 at 22:57
 
Here are a couple more.  Sorry about having to do it in so many posts.  It kept giving me permission errors, but I got it done.


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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: Duce
Date Posted: February/02/2008 at 06:31
Let it set up good and you will love it, I have never had Devcon break down or come loose, I can`t say the same for the fiberglass compounds. Let us know hot it feels to shoot when your finished.
Good job & good shooting
 
Duce  Big%20Smile


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Duce


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: February/02/2008 at 12:56
Turned out great.  Popped it this morning after 12 hours.  Came out easier than I thought it would.  A huge thanks to you guys.  Duce, Focus, Dolphin, Ronk, and Rifedude, I owe you a cold one any time you want it.  Thanks so much for all the help and advice.  Couldn't have done it without you guys.  Will post some pick later when I get the time to take them.

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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: RifleDude
Date Posted: February/02/2008 at 13:11
Good deal, helo!  Be sure and give us a range report!Big%20Smile
 
Once you do a few bedding jobs, you'll discover certain little tricks that you will adopt to make things easier and work better for you.  Looks like you are well on your way to becoming good at it.


-------------
Ted


Money can't buy happiness... but it's much more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle.


Posted By: RONK
Date Posted: February/03/2008 at 09:33
 
 Well done, Helo! Excellent
  You might want to start cleaning it up a little now.  If Devcon is anything like Acraglas, it trims up easily when it is about the consistecy of a plastic milk jug. When it gets real hard , it becomes brittle and chips easier.  Use sharp tools and be careful not to scratch the metalwork.
 Never used Devcon though so I'm just speculating.


Posted By: RifleDude
Date Posted: February/03/2008 at 11:30
I use a Dremel tool with a small endmill - like carbide burr for the trimming-up process.  It cuts very clean, doesn't chip the bedding, and gives me very precise control.  As Ronk alluded to, you just trim up the excess epoxy that squeezed into areas that might impair function, such as the edges of the magazine well and the trigger assy inletting.

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Ted


Money can't buy happiness... but it's much more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle.


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: February/04/2008 at 21:50
 
Came out pretty good.  You can see on the right side of the pic that I didn't get enough Devcon in there, so I am giving it a couple days, then will fill it it, let it cure, and then probably go shoot it next weekend.  Will do a little filing to get the mag well in there where it should be.  Will let you know how it shoots.


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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: RifleDude
Date Posted: February/04/2008 at 22:00
Looks good!  Good job, helo!Excellent

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Ted


Money can't buy happiness... but it's much more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle.


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: February/10/2008 at 18:20
 
Not my best day shooting.  I was a little twitchy today.  Not a bad for the first three shot, then I flinched on the fourth.  Was going to shoot a five shot group, but gave up after the flinch.  Without the 4th shot, it is about 3/4 in group.  Will be going out again later in the week to shoot agian.  Will see if I can do any better.  If not, I will put it on the lead sled to take out the human error.  Thanks again for all the help on this project.


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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: pyro6999
Date Posted: February/10/2008 at 18:40
did it help??

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They call me "Boots"
375H&H Mag: Yeah, it kills stuff "extra dead"

343 we will never forget

God Bless Chris Ledoux
"good ride cowboy"


Posted By: helo18
Date Posted: February/10/2008 at 18:49
Doesn't seem to havechanged much.  But at the same time, I was kinda rushing the shooting a little.  I have wednesday off of work and no flights, so I am going to go out and take my time.  Let the barrel really cool between shots.  I can say that it didn't make it any worse.  The action feels like it fits more snuggly in the stock now.  Will post more updates after I go shoot again.

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To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving peace.

GEORGE WASHINGTON


Posted By: pyro6999
Date Posted: February/10/2008 at 19:09
i would suspect it should help accuracy

-------------
They call me "Boots"
375H&H Mag: Yeah, it kills stuff "extra dead"

343 we will never forget

God Bless Chris Ledoux
"good ride cowboy"


Posted By: ssf467
Date Posted: February/18/2008 at 11:13
Brownells

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Vox Pop



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