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Powdercoating?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/20/2006 at 01:38
ranburr View Drop Down
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I recently acquired a mistreated 870 Wingmaster.  I am turning it into a "riot gun".  Internally everything was very dirty, but otherwise in excellent shape.  The exterior had a good bit of rust on it that I removed and there is a significant amount of pitting.  I am thinking about powdercoating it with a textured finish.  Am I right in my thinking that this will hide the pitting?  Do you see any need for me to parkerize before powdercoating the exterior?

 

ranburr

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/20/2006 at 04:06
koshkin View Drop Down
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I am not a specialist in this by any stretch of imagination, but from what I undersatnad parkerizing it first and then applying a finish on top of it usually makes the resultant coating more durable.

ILya
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/20/2006 at 07:27
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Park? No... Hardchrome? Yes...  I would at least Park it.   Where is our resident expert when you need him?  I would hard chrome all the moving parts.  Some coatings need a rough surface to stick to, so bead blast.  That does not mean that the pits will be hidden.  You should parkerize to make sure the rust stops.  The coatings will only fill in so much.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/21/2006 at 22:02
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If the surface is clean & prepped correctly parkerizing is not required to apply a coating on top of. I  would recommend media blasting the rusted surface to remove all rust & pitting. Use only dry mesh media (80 to 120 grit alum oxide or garnet). Do not use glass or plastic beads. Alum oxide leave little nicks or small cuts in the surface that allows the coating to have something to bite into. Beads beat small divet's into the surface, (like on a golf ball) We only use them for giving a matte appearance to stainless steel

 

CeraKote or KG GunKote 2400 series would be my recommendation for an all metal surface. Media blasting with 120 grit alum oxide will remove the pitting.

 

If you want to DIY give me a call and I can walk you through it. My contact info is on my website http://www.larsontactical.com

 

Joe

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/23/2006 at 11:06
Anthony View Drop Down
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indeed parkerizing first is not required, but it's kind of like primer <we're talking paint, not reloading> for guns, it bonds to the metal better than the paint, and the paint bonds to it better than it would to metal.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/23/2006 at 12:05
dilligaf View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Anthony Anthony wrote:

indeed parkerizing first is not required, but it's kind of like primer <we're talking paint, not reloading> for guns, it bonds to the metal better than the paint, and the paint bonds to it better than it would to metal.

 

The reason park is popular as a finish & why it works well as a base for modern coatings is its porous and soaks up stuff like a sponge. This includes oil & any oil, even oil from your hands under a coating is bad juju. Even after careful degreasing if you bake a park finished item you would be surprised the amount of oil that will bleed out if the park item is baked.

 

In the beginning we never blasted parkerized surfaces. 9 times out of 10 this would cause problems, especially with multi colored camo patterns. Now unless I know who did the parkerzing and how old it is we blast it.

 

I have never had any blasted bare metal we have coated have adheasion problems to wear faster than if it laid on top of park.

 

Joe

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