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Oil & Water

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2013 at 10:50
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Yesterday I had a mishap. When mowing the bank around the pond. I bounced the Scag off an 5" Elm tree. With much rapindess the mower spun around on a 40 degree wet slope and slid backwards to the pond. The front wheels were lifted off the ground a couple of times on the way down. I was able to get everything shut down before it slipped slowly back into the water ending up partially submerged in the pond. The steep grade of the bank had water at the front of the mower deck with the muffler submerged up to the bottom carburetor.  I was suprised that the mower stopped before sliding to the bottom of the pond.
   Used the tractor to drag it back to the barn. Water was still draining from the muffler. Pulled the plugs , They were dry, and blew out the cylinders to be safe. It started with little effort. But there was water in the oil. I have done 3 oil changes blowing all the oil out of the filter, then running briefly between changes. Today I will buy new filters and more oil because there is always a little oil left in the sump. There is still a little milkyness to the oil. Without pulling and disasembling the block anyone have any suggestions for drying the remaining moisture from the oil sump other than more oil changes?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2013 at 12:39
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Can't help, I'm about as mechanically inclined as a dead cow. Thank the Lord you didn't get hurt [ other than stains in your shorts ] and that the machine appears OK.

Excellent
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2013 at 12:46
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Can you get to the oil pan easily enough to remove it?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2013 at 13:18
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Vertical shaft Kawasaki 23 Hp engine. It would have to be removed and disassembled. My plan at this time is to change the oil after every mowing until all milkiness is removed. I may treat with a P.T F.E. additive after a couple of more changes. When crawling off, and the mower was sliding back, Just knew that the scuba gear was going to be needed. It was a close call. Part of the problem is the rubber on the tires has gotten hard and polished over the 9 years I have used it. Still lots of tread so I may use the belt sander to cut the top layer off the tread. This will sharpen the edges and maybe bring some softer rubber to the surface. In hopes of getting more traction to the ground in the future. Whacko
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2013 at 21:26
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Call Elizabeth Hurley and watch everything she does!  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2013 at 21:33
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I'm wondering if any type of oil additive made for marine engines could help? I'd venture to guess that it probably happens to boat motors from time to time. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 05:47
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Glad your okay Lile!
Unfortunately I can't think of a single product thats safe to put in the crankcase for water absorbtion.  Changing oil and putting a low PSI air hose to filler with drain plug out can help evacuate then crankcase. then continue doing what your doing changing the oil often if you see any milkiness.  The real test will be starting it in the spring... Shocked
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 07:41
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I would drain the oil and run some diesal through the motor and let it filter through.  I've seen my grandpa do it years back in a similar situation, he let it sit and for a few days he'd run a cup through it with the plug out and just let it sit.  After about four days he flushed it with new oil then put the plug back in and filled it up correct, no more water was in there.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 08:25
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I hesitated to say used Deisel cause it will cut  the oil film on the bearings and cylinder walls, but come to think about it, I believe that Kawasaki engine is pressure lubricated with filter so...
 
 
Lile if you do that make sure to squint a little oil into the cylinder after filling crankcase and crank her with the plugwires disconnected for a little while to re-prime the bearings.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 10:06
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Yes priming after all that with fire removed is a must.  Need to build the pressure back up as a precaution
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 14:25
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I have decide to try and vacuum the oil from crankcase on the next oil change. Bud you are a racer. Do you think sanding the polished, hardened surface of the tires may improve the grip.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 14:58
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I've been thinking about replacing my tires with a tractor tread tire. When I get on a slope with wet or soft ground, the turf tires just spin. The tractor tread (wide) should give more traction on a slope.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 15:37
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These tires, as I remember had better grip. It is only in the past 2 years that they slide and spin more. The tread knobs are all rounded, rather than having a sharp edge as when newer. Only 9 years, you would expect better. Big Grin
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 15:42
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Originally posted by budperm budperm wrote:

Glad your okay Lile!
Unfortunately I can't think of a single product thats safe to put in the crankcase for water absorbtion.  Changing oil and putting a low PSI air hose to filler with drain plug out can help evacuate then crankcase. then continue doing what your doing changing the oil often if you see any milkiness.  The real test will be starting it in the spring... Shocked
If it is like last year I was still mowing in January. Started back in March. Glad I am not in South Texas as far as mowing goes.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 15:54
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I was going to say you probably should look into some new tires after you get the oil problem sorted out. As far as oil and water sorry to say I have no ideas that weren't already mentioned.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 15:57
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I have the same issue with my Zero turn and the tires are only 2 years old.  sanding the tread might help some but if you take off too much you might as well oil them... I've noticed with mine that verying tire pressure gives me different traction in different conditions. Wet and on a slope is one of the worse for zeros, once they break free it's WEEEEEeeeee !!!! As you just found out.
 
They use turf tires on zeros to minimize the tearing of the lawn when you turn.  Paddle type tractor tread will trash the lawn when turning unless your extremely cautious....ie SLOW...which defeats what zeros are all about....production cutting, quick, smooth and uniform.
 
Thoses tire are quite expensive too! 4 plies are over $100 each.  I've been toying with the idea of trying ATV wheel that have the hollowed out tread lugs.  Seems to me they'd bite in better then a solid lug would.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 16:01
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Do they make Bighorns that fit. That is what I put on my 4 wheeler. Now they have traction. Yes, they will tear up the yard for sure. Shocked
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 16:20
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I hate to say this but hey.... maybe just be more careful around the pond.....  Bucky

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2013 at 16:54
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Lile, glad you didn't drop it on your head.
I've seen people fill their crankcase with ATF and start it without load or revving for a minute and then drain it to clear sludge, etc.
Rubbing alcohol added to gas in winter is an old trick to absorb any condensation in tank/fuel lines. If you were to pre- mix 1/3 ATF, 1/3 alcohol and 1/3 regular oil and add to crankcase and start it and build pressure, then drain and add regular oil.
 
I don't know if that's a good idea, or not, but it should get more of the water out of the system. The only downside might be not getting all of that mixture out of crankcase... i have a Honda engine that drains through the fill tube and it always leaves something behind in the crankcase.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/18/2013 at 15:43
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just keep changing the oil, it will eventually clean the water  out.i once changed the oil on a honda 4wheeler 7 times before the oil was clear.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/19/2013 at 05:56
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Yeah and oil used to be $1 a quarter.... no longer.  I run synthetic in my Kawasaki 21HP.
 
Thats pressure lubed engine with filter.  Filters aren't cheap either  so I can appreciate Liles delimma
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/19/2013 at 08:36
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Almost all the water is out now. I also used the belt sander on the tires. Sanding did help the traction a lot. I need a sanding belt that is more coarse to do a better job. The one I had is only 200 grit. Spent the whole weekend mowing. 5 ac at the house 3 ac the neighbors. 2 ac in Inola and brush hogged 11 ac at the farm. I have stirred up enough allergens to sink the Bismarck. At least the weather was cooperative. Mid 80's and only a light 10 mph breeze. I am looking forward to a day behind the desk to rest.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/19/2013 at 09:25
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I had a similar problem with my snow blower. I changed oil and added some Seafoam. That did the trick for me After one more oil change. On the tire problem have you considered siping them?

https://www.google.com/search?q=tire+siping+tool&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a


Edited by Sparky - August/19/2013 at 09:59
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/19/2013 at 09:26
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no rest for teh business owner....you know that! Cool
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/19/2013 at 09:40
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Tiring siping....had never heard of it tilll now.  Cheap way to renew traction...
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