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new Zeiss Conquest troubles

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 08:29
frankb View Drop Down
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I purchased a new Zeiss Conquest a while back and have been waiting for the new Browning X Bolt Rifles to come out in 7mm-08. Well finally I got the rifle and mounted the new scope on it last weekend. Bore sighted and ready for the range, I took the rifle out to my 100 yard sight-in range. When I bore sighted the scope, I noticed that the windage and elevation knobs both said "UP". All my other scopes say "UP" for the elevation and "R" for the windage. Was there a mistakes when the scope was put together?
After getting the first couple shots on paper, I had to make my adjustments for windage and elevation to bring me in closer to the target. As I adjusted the scope I noticed the adjustments did not track properly. Trying to adjust the elevation would not only move the point of impact up and down, but also side to side. The same went for the windage adjustment. I could not get the scope to move only up or down on the elevation knob.
Is it possible that this scope could have been a defect?
I still need to adjust the scope up to achieve my 1" high at 100 yards but when I try to adjust the elevation knob, the bullets will now go up and off to the side. The scope was mounted completely level and the cross hairs are exactly on plain.
I am now waiting for an email from Chris as to what to do now!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 08:47
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You did the right thing in contacting Chris ..hang tight and I am sure he will get back to you soon,,however --I would probably go ahead and give them a call ..I am sure someone with a Conquest will jump in and give you a hand

Edited by martin3175 - September/25/2008 at 10:20
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 08:52
Chris Farris II View Drop Down
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Frank I emailed you but, it would not allow me to reply for some reason. They do not say UP. I have actually done this before myself. If you look real close they both say U/R with an arrow. This of course meaning Up or Right. Hope this helps. As for the adjustment we have not had this problem with a Zeiss before. I would say run a box test on the scope. If it fails and is indeed defective send it back to Zeiss make them fix or replace it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 08:56
Chris Farris II View Drop Down
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All CONQUEST models have the following features in common:
  • 1 inch-diameter center tube for ring mounting.
  • One piece tube body for superior ruggedness.
  • Available with hard anodized black or stainless surface finish. The latter blends perfectly with stainless all-weather weapons.
  • 6 different reticles including Z-Plex and reticle 4.
  • Non-magnifying reticles throughout the entire power range to ensure that the reticle size remains constant and hides as little of the target as possible at long ranges.
  • Parallax-free at 100 yds or with parallax adjustment (AO) in the CONQUEST 4.5-14x44 AO MC and CONQUEST 6.5-20x50 AO MC.
  • Easy-to-use reticle adjustment with ¼ MOA = 0.7 cm per click at 100 m allows quick and precise sighting in.
  • Large square reticle adjustment range - elevation and windage adjustments do not affect each other even at the ends of the adjustment ranges.
  • Long eye relief of 4" with the CONQUEST 3-9x40 MC and 3.5" with the other scope models.
  • Continuous eyepiece focusing from +2 to -3 diopters.
  • No change in the point of impact after power change or re-focusing.
  • Carl Zeiss MC multi-coating on all glass-to-air surfaces for maximum transmission (markedly above 90 %), color fidelity and brilliance.
  • Waterproof in compliance with ISO 9022-8 - even with elevation caps removed.
  • Nitrogen filling to prevent fogging on the inner lens surfaces.
  • Lifetime Transferrable Warranty

This is right of the Zeiss website. So if they are infact affecting one another it is defective.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 09:01
Chris Farris II View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 09:37
Tip69 View Drop Down
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can you explain what the "box" test is and how to do it?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 09:52
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box test just means you are checking tracking..
i.e., once sighted in, shoot once, go 4 clicks right, shoot, 4 clicks down, shoot, 4 clicks left shoot, 4 clicks up, shoot

you should have 4 holes on the paper, making up the shape of a box, right at an inch square at 100 yards (with 1/4 MOA clicks)

the 5th shot should be stacked on top of the 1st shot (assuming your gun will shoot one ragged hole)
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 09:53
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Box test that I do.

Shot a zeroed shot at the bullseye.  Move the reticle 5 moa up and 5 moa right aim at the bullseye shoot again.  Move it 10 MOA down and shoot again aiming at the bullseye.  Next move it 10 MOA left and shoot again.  Then 10 MOA up and shoot again.  then 5 MOA down and 5 MOA right and you should be back to your original zero and should have hit your first shot.  You should have a perfect square with each hole 10 MOA apart with a  holes in the very center of the square.  If not your scopes adjustments are not accurate or you pulled some of the shots.  When shooting make sure and call your shots, if your crosshairs move right before the trigger break shoot again until you get a perfect trigger press.  YOu could do this from a vice as well to take out the human error.

Some do a lot more than that by adding is more shots at different adjustments but you get the idea


Edited by supertool73 - September/25/2008 at 09:55
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 09:59
Tip69 View Drop Down
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seems like doing a box test in this instance will be impossible, since he can't get it zeroed in the first place.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 10:01
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Chris,
Thanks for the quick reply.
I just took another look at the scope adjustment knobs, this time with my glasses on! It does indeed say U/R. I am so disappointed in myself for not seeing that sooner. I guess I was just very excited in geting to mount the scope on the new rifle, that I did not pay more attention to the letters. That clears that up for me.
The only other problem I have now is getting it to track. I will do the box test and see if the error is not once again on me!.
The box test is where you shoot at your paper while adjusting the scope in a square shape. Take the first shot and then turn the adjustment knob windage or elevation four  clicks. Shoot again and adjust to go down or up. You do this for four shots and the holes in the paper should come out to a square or box. If the scope is tracking properly, you will end at your original position.
I shoot and adjust four clicks to the left and shoot. Four clicks down and shoot. Four clicks to the right and shoot. Four clicks up and shoot. If the scope is tracking properly, I should end up right where I first shot with a 1" square.
I hope I explained it correctly. Easier to do then to tell how!!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 10:06
frankb View Drop Down
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Tip,
I did finally get the rifle zeroed, but had the hardest time in doing so.
It is too windy today to do any more shooting with any kind of accuracy. I will have to wait a couple days until the wind and rain clears. We are getting ready to get hit hard today.
After Chris pointing out the U/R and not "UP", I am now second guessing myself if I was making different adjustments. I can only wait now to get back on the range to try it again.
The rifle I can say is shooting 5 shots inside 1" at the 100 yard range. I have it hitting dead center at the 100 yard mark. I need now to raise it 1" so I am good out to 200 yards without holdover.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 10:08
supertool73 View Drop Down
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If you do not have the scope perfectly level on the gun then you could also be getting the problem you are having.  If it is not square then when you move the adjustments it will actually move the point of impact on an angle in the direction you moved the adjustment.  Instead of just being right, it could be up and right because your scope is somewhat canted.  Same thing can happen if you are not holding the rifle square when you are shooting it.  That is definitely an advantage to using a vise and level when zeroing a gun.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 11:03
frankb View Drop Down
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I know 100% that the scope is completely level and plum. That part is not an issue.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 19:46
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This may not be it but i was always told that on a new scope you should crank both windage and elevation turrets to both extremes to "break them in".
 
I had a similar thing happen to me where the elevation was affecting windage and then cranked through the adjustment range a few times and presto problem solved.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/26/2008 at 10:06
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! degree of cant which is one minute on a wrist watch throws off point of impact 52 inches at 1000 yards.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/26/2008 at 10:11
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Originally posted by supertool73 supertool73 wrote:

Box test that I do.

Shot a zeroed shot at the bullseye.  Move the reticle 5 moa up and 5 moa right aim at the bullseye shoot again.  Move it 10 MOA down and shoot again aiming at the bullseye.  Next move it 10 MOA left and shoot again.  Then 10 MOA up and shoot again.  then 5 MOA down and 5 MOA right and you should be back to your original zero and should have hit your first shot.  You should have a perfect square with each hole 10 MOA apart with a  holes in the very center of the square.  If not your scopes adjustments are not accurate or you pulled some of the shots.  When shooting make sure and call your shots, if your crosshairs move right before the trigger break shoot again until you get a perfect trigger press.  YOu could do this from a vice as well to take out the human error.

Some do a lot more than that by adding is more shots at different adjustments but you get the idea


Great idea, printing for future reference,

thanks ST!! Thunbs%20Up
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/27/2008 at 03:09
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Originally posted by rockblaster rockblaster wrote:

! degree of cant which is one minute on a wrist watch throws off point of impact 52 inches at 1000 yards.

Assuming since that's a ! instead of a ^ you meant one degree, that's 10 seconds movement of the minute hand on a wristwatch.  1 minute is 6 degrees.

Second, from where did you get the 52 inch figure?  Even with a very rainbow-esque trajectory, that's off by about a factor of 10.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/27/2008 at 16:48
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Your right! I misquoted the article. It is 6 degrees and I was off on point of aim which is a little over 36 inches from a 308 168gr. A 6 degree mistake is still pretty easy to do especially off sticks in the field. Thanks for the correction. I'll make sure to get my facts straight in the future. it had been a while since I read that piece and as I get older the memory isn't what it was.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/27/2008 at 17:29
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Ah, that sounds better.      Thunbs%20Up
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