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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/30/2010 at 00:02
Magnumdood View Drop Down
Optics Apprentice
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I just took delivery of a 6-24X72 Hensoldt and am racking my feeble mind trying to deterimine how to mount the scope in such a way that the verticle reticle if plumb.  I have what I consider the best mounting sytem; a Near Mfg. rail and a Near Alpha once-piece base+rings.  I bedded the base to insure the mount is stress-free.  I have several devices made to assist in this operation, but every time I start thinking any of the operations through, I can see a lot of human interpretation and possible mechanical error.  I think I've gpt about 4 gadgets that are supposed to aid in mounting the scope directly over the bore and plumb (or level). 
 
Please describe how you mount your scopes and how you attain a "level" horizontal reticle.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/30/2010 at 08:21
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Chief Sackscratch

Joined: December/17/2009
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I'd say with a hensoldt, i'd just mount the thing on the mantle and look at it eerynight. lol
Congrats on the purchase!  I think there is a devise that Sakomato uses that will work great for what you doing.
he talks about it here
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/30/2010 at 09:30
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Throw away the gadgets, buy a $7 set of feeler gauges at Sears, scope is level, go shoot.

And send pictures, damn, a 72mm objective, you could use it for star gazing.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/30/2010 at 09:33
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Better yet, send rifle and scope to me, I'll square you away.

I went for the piddly 3-12X56 Hensoldt, the "small one" by comparison, best scope I own.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/30/2010 at 10:02
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Optics Apprentice
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Originally posted by SVT_Tactical SVT_Tactical wrote:

I'd say with a hensoldt, i'd just mount the thing on the mantle and look at it eerynight. lol
Congrats on the purchase!  I think there is a devise that Sakomato uses that will work great for what you doing.
he talks about it here
I have two of those, and I finally wrapped my feeble mind around how it works.  Thanks!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/30/2010 at 10:05
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Originally posted by Rancid Coolaid Rancid Coolaid wrote:

Throw away the gadgets, buy a $7 set of feeler gauges at Sears, scope is level, go shoot.

And send pictures, damn, a 72mm objective, you could use it for star gazing.
The image is...stunning compared to anything else I've ever seen.  I think it would take the Kowa 883 series spotter to rival it, or beat it.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/30/2010 at 10:39
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For those of you considering using a door frame or a wall to line your scope up first put a carpenter’s level on the surface.  I think you'll find you have a lot of door frames and walls that are neither square nor plumb.  You need a plumb-bob and some fluorescent string.  Then you'll get a truly plumb line to work with.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/30/2010 at 11:00
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I've found that with better quality scopes that have a flat base the feeler gauge method works well, followed up by hanging a plumb bob line 50 yards away. One thing I've found is that it's good to take the individual gauge blades off the holder and stack up exactly what you need. They should also be totally clean. To make sure I have the right height, I'll add or remove a blade, then try to rock the scope in the rings. If the gauge stack is too high, it will rock. Ideally, you want the stack to be just a hair (maybe .001") under the scope base. As you tighten the rings, the scope will push down slightly. If the stack is too high, it will 1) be hard to get out and 2) will likely mess up the mounting process. If it's too loose, you might induce some cant.

When I'm all done, I fan the middle of the stack out so that I can remove one of the blades. That avoids scratching your scope base or the rail.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/30/2010 at 11:34
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ROLL TIDE ROLL

Joined: January/03/2006
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Feeler gauge set is the only way to go. If you must you can verify by a plump bob set up but unnecessary in my opinion.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/31/2010 at 02:31
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Dark Lord of Optics

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One thing that is not often mentioned is that the alignment of the knobs to the reticle is not always perfect.  For a scope where I plan to use the knobs a lot, I can live with a slightly rotated reticle, but I need the knobs to be aligned correctly.  I am not aware of any easy way to check it other than shooting.  Once you are all set up, spend some time on the range shooting at a target and adjusting elevation knob only.  Make sure that your groups move strictly vertically.

ILya
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/31/2010 at 13:43
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My feelings are a bit different.  The reticle being canted with respect to the turrets by any more than even one degree is unacceptable for this scope.

There are many ways to check, such as locking the scope down in a vise with it aimed at the edge of a building, etc, but by far the easiest is with a collimator:




Line it up perfectly and crank away.  If the reticle moves laterally more than a click or two over the entire range of elevation, send it back.  You can expect cheaper scopes (some brands more than others) won't always be perfect but you didn't pay all that money for a crooked instrument.  Note, the scope does not even need to be mounted straight or even on a rifle at all to check this.

As for mounting it straight, I used to struggle with this a lot more using various methods, sometimes it seems the reticle will look straight from one angle, crooked from another, mount the rifle in one position it looks like this, hold it in another it looks like that, one person would think it's straight another would say it's crooked, etc--you can drive yourself mad.  Over the past few years I've been just using the Segway leveler, which levels nicely on a picatinny base, mounted backward so you are looking at the scope from the front.  When each side of the reticle evenly bisects a line or lines up with the edge of a line and you get it tightended down that way, you're done. 

The feeler gauge method also looks like it would work very well I just have't happened to try it.  Ether way, for your own sanity, only spend a couple minutes doing it and never question it after that--if the reticle ever looks crooked when you're holding the rife, it's because you're holding the rifle crooked.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/31/2010 at 13:50
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On this one, I gotta agree with Jon: adjustments that ain't dead-nuts on - especially at this price - send it home, it is not a serviceable piece of gear..
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/31/2010 at 15:07
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Es gibt keine Ausreden zu diesem Preis.
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