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Never shoot dry??

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 08:48
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This from Pacnor site:
Thanks for purchasing a barrel from us!

For best results, of course, it is necessary to 'season' it and use proper cleaning equipment. We like the Dewey coated rods, a good bore guide, copper/bronze brushes and cotton flannel patches, the appropriate size to keep that jag and rod in the middle of the bore. You will need a good bore solvent, like KG 3, Shooters Choice or CR-10 to loosen the fouling, followed by a scrubbing with Holland's Witches Brew or KG 2. After cleaning, nullify the solvents with rubbing alcohol and patch dry. Finish with Tetra Gun Oil, KG 4 or Holland's Bbl Break-in Fluid. Never shoot a dry bore as this will greatly promote copper fouling.
 
Now what is meant with the last sentence? Never shoot dry bore?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 08:51
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So i guess you have to wet it down before every shot. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 08:59
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That is a funny way to put it. I think they mean a clean unlubricated bore. I always run a lubed patch followed by a dry patch after cleaning and before shooting. After the first shot the bore is lubed by fouling.

I guess they don't consider a fouled bore "dry."
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 09:03
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Spit on your bullets.  No lugies as they gum up the bore.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 09:31
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Originally posted by Bitterroot Bulls Bitterroot Bulls wrote:

That is a funny way to put it. I think they mean a clean unlubricated bore. I always run a lubed patch followed by a dry patch after cleaning and before shooting. After the first shot the bore is lubed by fouling.

I guess they don't consider a fouled bore "dry."
 
Lubed with what? And does the dry patch not remove the lube?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 09:34
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Originally posted by 8shots 8shots wrote:

Originally posted by Bitterroot Bulls Bitterroot Bulls wrote:

That is a funny way to put it. I think they mean a clean unlubricated bore. I always run a lubed patch followed by a dry patch after cleaning and before shooting. After the first shot the bore is lubed by fouling.

I guess they don't consider a fouled bore "dry."
 
Lubed with what? And does the dry patch not remove the lube?


To a point it dose, When a bullet is crammed down the barrel I'm sure 99.9% of it is gone and the heat and flame get the 0.1%.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 09:43
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Originally posted by 8shots 8shots wrote:

Lubed with what? And does the dry patch not remove the lube?


The dry patch removes the excess copper solvent to ensure you're starting with a clean bore PRIOR to running another oil-soaked patch to apply a light film as a preservative.

In your quote above, after the dry patch step, they tell you to "finish with Tetra Gun Oil, KG 4 or Holland's Bbl Break-in Fluid," which is the bore preservative oil they recommend, though many different oils will also work.  After that, you don't run another dry patch, you leave the oil film in the bore.

I always run a patch soaked in Kroil after I clean my barrels, because it's a super penetrating oil that leaves a very thin film and creeps into every tiny pore and tool mark in the steel surface.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 09:46
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Originally posted by 8shots 8shots wrote:

This from Pacnor site:
Thanks for purchasing a barrel from us!

For best results, of course, it is necessary to 'season' it and use proper cleaning equipment. We like the Dewey coated rods, a good bore guide, copper/bronze brushes and cotton flannel patches, the appropriate size to keep that jag and rod in the middle of the bore. You will need a good bore solvent, like KG 3, Shooters Choice or CR-10 to loosen the fouling, followed by a scrubbing with Holland's Witches Brew or KG 2. After cleaning, nullify the solvents with rubbing alcohol and patch dry. Finish with Tetra Gun Oil, KG 4 or Holland's Bbl Break-in Fluid. Never shoot a dry bore as this will greatly promote copper fouling.
 
Now what is meant with the last sentence? Never shoot dry bore?


I think what they are trying say is lube the bore after the rubbing alcohol as the alcohol evaporates and leaves no lubrication.  I always run a oil patch after cleaning followed by a dry patch to remove the excess oil and only leave a light film in the bore.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 15:40
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Never shoot until you have a beer, then a beer while shooting, and one after...
Then you are not "shooting dry"...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 15:41
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Originally posted by RifleDude RifleDude wrote:


The dry patch removes the excess copper solvent to ensure you're starting with a clean bore PRIOR to running another oil-soaked patch to apply a light film as a preservative.

It is my understanding the last dry patch does not remove all of the lube.
 
Originally posted by SD Dog SD Dog wrote:

I always run a oil patch after cleaning followed by a dry patch to remove the excess oil and only leave a light film in the bore.
 
This is also what I have been told. I dunno, maybe I am doing it wrong, Ted, but I haven't rusted a bore yet.
I do run a dry patch before the lubed patch to remove the solvents though. Forgot to mention that part.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 15:59
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I would run a dry patch through the bore after an oily patch to remove any excess oil. If you shoot with to much oil in the barrel, I think you could risk bulging the barrel, or causing excessive pressure. At least that's what I was told by old timers.
 
I do like Kickboxer's idea better thoughBucky
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2012 at 16:14
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a dry bore is one that has been flushed with carb. cleaner or brake cleaner, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone or one of the other low flash point solvents.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/15/2012 at 02:06
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Dale, allways the voice of reason !
 
OK that makes some sense, but a strange way of putting it.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/15/2012 at 09:18
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this topic makes all the rounds on all the forums at least once a year.  One interesting post had the orgin of the term from the barrel rifling cutting process. The shavings were washed away with a heavy cutting lube then the metal was flushed with a solvent to dry it of the cutting lube. Have no idea if this is correct-- just saying- anyway large areement accross forums (if there is such a thing) that dry has been cleaned with solvent. Easiest way to solve problem is just stop cleaning so much.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/15/2012 at 22:17
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Don't forget the good old light fluid to dry the bore...used to be recommended, now a light oil film.LocoIt's making me crazy.
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