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Need stock refinishing advice

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/02/2015 at 15:35
DCAMM94 View Drop Down
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I'm refinishing an old model 700 that has the nylon black forend cap.  I inadvertently got some citrus stripper on it, and well, you can probably guess the rest.  Anyone have experience smoothing out the bubbled up nylon? Will normal sandpaper work? Also, does anyone have a recommendation on what to use to re-seal it after I put the oil-rubbed finish on the rifle?  I'm thinking enough satin finish polyurethane might work, but I don't want to mess this thing up any worse.  The rifle has some family history - my first 300yd shot on a buck when I was 12, both of my nieces got their first buck with it this season - so I need to get it back into good shape, and I'd like it to be as original as possible.  Thanks.

Deck
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/02/2015 at 23:32
Sgt. D View Drop Down
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I've done a lot of stock work but have not had to repair an endcap like you have described. But, if I were going to attempt that repair I would sand it as smooth as I thought reasonable *without* changing the fit to the forearm (if possible). I'd start with a 120 grit (if the damage is deep) and clean it up with a 500 or finer if I have it and then buff it out with a wheel I have. I don't imagine you would want to buy a 70.00 buffing wheel for one repair but you might try one of those drill run buffing balls you can get at a auto parts store. It will likely take awhile to get it done with one of those or you may think of something better. Once you get that where you want it the polyurethane will give you a quality hard finish that will last a good while. I generally do 4 to 8 coats depending on how deep I want the finish to look. You will get the best results if you can coat it with a air temp of 65 to 75 and don't rush it cause it will run. Follow the can instructions and you should get a good job. If you do find a run or bug or trash in it just let is dry for a day or so and then take some 250 or finer paper and clean up any imperfections. Then take some 00 steel wool and scuff the whole stock. Be sure to wipe it down good with a clean cloth to get all the dust off then you can spray a finish coat and you are done.

Good luck with it!

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/03/2015 at 00:12
DCAMM94 View Drop Down
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Thanks Sarge.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/03/2015 at 06:32
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Mail it to me. I'll do what I can with it and mail it back. This is the easiest way. I don't use any poly for sealing. I use a leen seed or tru oil or another thing I found depending on the wood and grain..
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/03/2015 at 08:15
DCAMM94 View Drop Down
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Thanks Brandon, but part of the reason I'm refinishing it for my dad is because years ago, I was the one that messed it up to begin with.  He's since seen my refinishes on several stocks, and wants the same finish on this one.  I use a wet-sanded pilkington's finish that looks magnificent if done properly.  I just need to smooth out the "stripped" forend cap.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/03/2015 at 08:16
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Ok, kewl. Post some pictures as you progress.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/03/2015 at 10:20
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Thought about it this morning. I have bought small buffing wheels for my dremel at Lowes. They are very similar to the buffing wheel I have. A couple of those would probably do what you need. Just be sure you don't over heat the plastic and make more work for yourself.

Good luck!

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/03/2015 at 12:43
DCAMM94 View Drop Down
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Good idea. I'll go check out lowe's.  Then again, I may use this as an excuse to get an actual grinder with a buffing wheel.  I also want to get a leather strap for it to make quick work of my knives.  Maybe sears has a good deal on a bench grinder this time of year. Big Grin
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/03/2015 at 12:53
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Deck, do I detect a devious streak?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/03/2015 at 14:32
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Another option you have with a oil rubbed finish is you can keep wax on it instead of the poly coats. I really like the one Cooper arms recommended and have been using it on my shotguns to. The birch wood basically has same ingredients except they replace Howard's orange oil with silicone and say it's good for metal. They both contain beeswax and carnauba. Howard's can be found at all the large hardware stores including Lowe.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/03/2015 at 14:46
DCAMM94 View Drop Down
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Thanks Coyote.  I've been using this for a few years, and I like it a lot.  I also use the linseed oil finish on it as opposed to poly.  The poly will only be used to try to match the finish for the nylon endcap:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/wood-finishes/classic-gunstock-finish-prod9817.aspx

Here's an example of one of the stocks I've redone.  It replaced the rock-hard lacquer finish that browning uses to take every bit of character out of their new firearms nowadays:



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