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Mounting a scope the right way

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/15/2011 at 10:13
kyblev View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
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OK folks,
Here I am getting ready to mount my Zeiss scope and want the thing to be right the first time out.  In the past I have bought cheap scopes and aligned them the best I could and just hand tightened them down.  I am mounting this scope using Leupold base with dove tail rings.  How do I ensure the rings are straight and what torque should I use on the ring nuts.  Also I will be firing a 7MM RUM so I need to make sure the scope will not move.  P.S. what is lapping a scope mean.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/15/2011 at 14:25
Stud Duck View Drop Down
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Are you using a one-piece or two-piece bases? This will determine exactly what/how I do the following, but without knowing for sure, I'll proceed with general steps.
 
A cheap way of making sure the rings are "straight" would be it insert a wooden dowel rod the same size as your scope tube into the lower half of the rings once they are secure on the         base(s) and then look down on them without the tops halves attached and see if one or both of the rings are out of alignment; I don't like using a wooden dowel because they may not be perfectly round. I personally use the Kokopelli alignment kit for this task. http://www.kokopelliproducts.com/kokopelli.html
 
After the bases are mounted and square with the receiver; http://www.8541tactical.com/scope%20base%20install.php. Lay the scope in the rings and tighten the top halves just enough to hold the scope firmly, but allowing you to move the scope forwards and back. Shoulder the rifle and adjust the scope for your eye relief.
 
Be sure your scope is mounted properly and the crosshairs are straight. I've used several different and costly methods to do this, but I have defaulted back to two cross-check levels and a plumb bob. Cradle the rifle in a vise or sandbags; I put one magnetized cross-check level about mid-way out on the barrel and one in the middle of the receiver and make sure the rifle is level front to back and side to side. Without touching the rifle, I look through the scope and rotate it the verticle cross hair to align with the string of my plumb bob hanging on the opposite side of the room or wherever.
 
Once this is accomplished finish tightening the upper scope halves in an alternating pattern WITHOUT rotating the scope. 
 
I hope I didn't leave anything out; It's almost quitting time and I'm in a hurry. I'll check back shortly, but if I left something out someone will advise. 
 
 
 http://www.opticstalk.com/torque-specs_topic18389.html (torque specs) If you can't find your torque specs in this thread, let me know I'll have them at home in a binder.
 
 
 
 


Edited by Stud Duck - September/15/2011 at 14:35
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/15/2011 at 14:29
cvedrick View Drop Down
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Easy answer is return that Loopy base and rings to whoever sold it to you.  You have a fairly new rifle going my the caliber, Your receiver should already be drilled and tapped parallel to the bore with an accuracy of better than 0.0001" +/- so you do not need the windage capability of the dual dovetail.

Instead I very highly recommend a one or two piece Weaver style base from Warne.  

DO NOT re-tap the receiver to #8 holes, the #6 holes are adequate for anything less than 7000 lb/ft and more people strip those things out trying to enlarge them than you would believe.

I would also highly recommend the Warne Maxima line of rings, either the permanent or the lever removal ones.

Before mounting anything, remove your bolt, this is very important, hear and believe!

When installing, put 1 (one) drop of clear nail polish on the screw threads, it will take around 10 minutes to harden and will allow you to remove later without worrying about vibration loosening it.

If you do not have a torque driver (wheeler engineering makes an affordable one that is worth it's weight in silver) you will have to poor-man it.  Point your forefinger out, align your thumb with it, place the driver parallel to the finger and thumb when tightening, when it slips you have around 10-15# of torque.  Then use first and middle fingers as well as your thumb, this will get you your 20# recommended torque.

DO NOT EVER TIGHTEN A SCREW BY USING A FIST GRIP, YOU WILL BE SORRY

If using the allen type wrench that comes with the rings, put your thumb near the screw head to support the wrench and 1 finger on the long end.  Just use the pad of your finger like it was a trigger, when it slips off, you are torqued.

Install your mounts, then GINGERLY replace your bolt.  If it does not go back in easily, you will have to shorten 1 or more of your screws to match, filing works or a sanding drum on a dremel.  If using a dremel or grinder, have a small cup with 1/2" water in it.  As the screw heats up, cool it in the water, dry, repeat.  When you get the screws where the bolt again works freely, remove the bolt again.

The Maxima rings are a bit tricky at first, but in some ways much easier than standard.  lay your scope down on a flat surface and loosely mount the rings to it.  Then using your pinkies to hold the steel shoulder insert in, place on your rifle and in the mount slots.

**When snugging any weaver ring, use your other hands thumb to push the ring forward in the slot, this prevents slippage under heavy recoil as well as allowing a positive return when using detachable rings.**

Snug your rings enough to a keep it in place but still allow movement fore and aft as well as rotation of the scope.  Move it around until you get a good sight picture with your eye relief as well as vertically aligned crosshairs.

**Some scopes will change their eye relief depending on magnification settings, check this**

***you can double check the vertical alignment by sand bagging the rifle on a table and looking  at the muzzle and through the scope from in front of the rifle (remember removing your bolt? this is part of the reason)***

Now torque your screws a bit at a time, checking that your alignment stays the same after each torque setting.

One thing I like about the Maxima rings, is that they automatically align with the receiver and the scope, eliminating the need to align, adjust or lap.  Moreover their customer service is absolutely first rate.

I got a Shultz & Larsen that flat out was not listed by anyone for mounts.  Weaver did list them, but their specifications were off and they would never work, Leupold had no listing and could not help me when I called them.

Since I had 3 sets of spares in my kit and fully intended to use their rings..........

I called Warne and got Tech support, turned out to be the owner....  After 20 minutes of me measuring via calipers receiver diameter, hole placement, etc.  He asked for my telco # and stated that he had to go look around his shop.  15 minutes later I got a call = "What is your address, I have found something I think will work."  Gave it to him, asked about shipping charges and got "just call me back when they get there and let me know how they fit"

Needless to say they fit like a charm and have made me a very happy person.

As far as it goes, I have one friend who has had a Loopy mounted on his 8mm magnum for years and years using Warne rings, never a slip.  Another one just got a PSS in 300WM and mounted his Zeiss Diavora Victory FL on it with the same rings.

Not to dis Leupold, but I would rather have a colonoscopy than mess around with those dual dovetail rings.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/15/2011 at 16:25
bugsNbows View Drop Down
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bowsNbugs

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Originally posted by cvedrick cvedrick wrote:

Easy answer is return that Loopy base and rings to whoever sold it to you.  You have a fairly new rifle going my the caliber, Your receiver should already be drilled and tapped parallel to the bore with an accuracy of better than 0.0001" +/- so you do not need the windage capability of the dual dovetail.

Instead I very highly recommend a one or two piece Weaver style base from Warne.  

DO NOT re-tap the receiver to #8 holes, the #6 holes are adequate for anything less than 7000 lb/ft and more people strip those things out trying to enlarge them than you would believe.

I would also highly recommend the Warne Maxima line of rings, either the permanent or the lever removal ones.

Before mounting anything, remove your bolt, this is very important, hear and believe!

When installing, put 1 (one) drop of clear nail polish on the screw threads, it will take around 10 minutes to harden and will allow you to remove later without worrying about vibration loosening it.

If you do not have a torque driver (wheeler engineering makes an affordable one that is worth it's weight in silver) you will have to poor-man it.  Point your forefinger out, align your thumb with it, place the driver parallel to the finger and thumb when tightening, when it slips you have around 10-15# of torque.  Then use first and middle fingers as well as your thumb, this will get you your 20# recommended torque.

DO NOT EVER TIGHTEN A SCREW BY USING A FIST GRIP, YOU WILL BE SORRY

If using the allen type wrench that comes with the rings, put your thumb near the screw head to support the wrench and 1 finger on the long end.  Just use the pad of your finger like it was a trigger, when it slips off, you are torqued.

Install your mounts, then GINGERLY replace your bolt.  If it does not go back in easily, you will have to shorten 1 or more of your screws to match, filing works or a sanding drum on a dremel.  If using a dremel or grinder, have a small cup with 1/2" water in it.  As the screw heats up, cool it in the water, dry, repeat.  When you get the screws where the bolt again works freely, remove the bolt again.

The Maxima rings are a bit tricky at first, but in some ways much easier than standard.  lay your scope down on a flat surface and loosely mount the rings to it.  Then using your pinkies to hold the steel shoulder insert in, place on your rifle and in the mount slots.

**When snugging any weaver ring, use your other hands thumb to push the ring forward in the slot, this prevents slippage under heavy recoil as well as allowing a positive return when using detachable rings.**

Snug your rings enough to a keep it in place but still allow movement fore and aft as well as rotation of the scope.  Move it around until you get a good sight picture with your eye relief as well as vertically aligned crosshairs.

**Some scopes will change their eye relief depending on magnification settings, check this**

***you can double check the vertical alignment by sand bagging the rifle on a table and looking  at the muzzle and through the scope from in front of the rifle (remember removing your bolt? this is part of the reason)***

Now torque your screws a bit at a time, checking that your alignment stays the same after each torque setting.

One thing I like about the Maxima rings, is that they automatically align with the receiver and the scope, eliminating the need to align, adjust or lap.  Moreover their customer service is absolutely first rate.

I got a Shultz & Larsen that flat out was not listed by anyone for mounts.  Weaver did list them, but their specifications were off and they would never work, Leupold had no listing and could not help me when I called them.

Since I had 3 sets of spares in my kit and fully intended to use their rings..........

I called Warne and got Tech support, turned out to be the owner....  After 20 minutes of me measuring via calipers receiver diameter, hole placement, etc.  He asked for my telco # and stated that he had to go look around his shop.  15 minutes later I got a call = "What is your address, I have found something I think will work."  Gave it to him, asked about shipping charges and got "just call me back when they get there and let me know how they fit"

Needless to say they fit like a charm and have made me a very happy person.

As far as it goes, I have one friend who has had a Loopy mounted on his 8mm magnum for years and years using Warne rings, never a slip.  Another one just got a PSS in 300WM and mounted his Zeiss Diavora Victory FL on it with the same rings.

Not to dis Leupold, but I would rather have a colonoscopy than mess around with those dual dovetail rings.


LOL, that there is funny....and I agree 100%. Great advice IMO.



Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/16/2011 at 08:58
kyblev View Drop Down
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Thanks Guys
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/16/2011 at 13:37
supertool73 View Drop Down
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Even easier and just as good IMO.  Talley once piece ring mounts.  Don't have to deal with a separate base and rings.

I have not found that all newer rifles have square holes and receivers.  I have had to bed several remingtons because things are not square.  Just don't assume that everything is correct.  You may end up with good rings and bases, but if the receiver is out of whack it does not matter much how good the hardware is.
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