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Military surplus VZ24 8mm mauser

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/16/2009 at 08:32
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Okay  guys...
 
I am at an impass.  The Talley rings to mount the 4200 on my Sav 110FP won't be in until 2/2.
 
So, I decided to research sportsterizing my 8mm VZ24 Mauser. 
 
I picked it up a couple of years ago on impulse from local sporting goods store for $79. The numbers match and the stock, thought beat-up, is in pretty good shape.  The store had a barrel of these things and I picked what I thought was the best. 
 
I have recently fired it but without doing some sight work wasn't hitting paper at 100yds.  I did some reading and some sites that stated that they had to add at least a 1/4" of height to the front blade to get it on paper.  Even with the steel buttplate she felt good and solid.
 
My impression of this sites members is that most lean toward customs, and hi-end guns more than Surplus foreign military stuff.  Is there any of you that dabble in surplus Mausers?
 
What little reading I have done on the VZ24 indicates that it is one of the better makes and was produced in the Bear-no arsenal.  The action is clean and in excellent shape as is the Bolt.  The barrel is bright and rifling appears pronounced. 
 
What kind of things should I have a Mauser experienced Gunsmith check out before I put money into this project?  It chambers, fires and ejects rounds very smoothly.  The action is tight and smooth.  I broke down the bolt and it is in great shape with no crude inside.
 
If there is anyone here that has any experience turning these guns into hunting or target guns please give me a shout.  I am a blank page on this.  I was thinking of a sporting stock and scope for deer hunting.
 
 
Thanks in advance for any input.
B
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/16/2009 at 09:37
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Our new thread: Bud and the money pit!  Bud you can have a very nice gun, but expect to pay a lot of money and don't expect to get it back. You can learn a lot from such projects!  You just have to be realistic.  For the money you spend you could get a better shooting gun out of the box in some cases. Figure the cost of rebarrel, blueprint, new safety, new finish, maybe a trigger, and a new stock and you can get into some serious jack.  Then you get into it is still just a mauser action so it shoots .75 moa at best.  Just a .375 moa to what other actions might shoot for all the same stuff and tricks. 
 
Mauser workes in more extreme weather, but don't believe all the hype, because most Mausers you see today came off of the eastern front. They froze up and got cloged with mud too. So rather than a varmit rifle think moose.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/16/2009 at 12:09
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sounds fun to me!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/16/2009 at 12:21
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Well depends on how much you want to spen. The biggest expense is the barrel. You can start with an Adams & Bennett from competitor for about 90.00 or get a Shilen for about 400.00. I done one of these and made it a 7x57 mauser to deer hunt with. If you have all the tools and just buy parts: Barrell, Safety, Trigger, stock (how much you want to spend) low end 400.00 high end 800.00. This does not count the hours it takes to prepare for blueing and finishing the stock. If you just want to have a project it is a learning experience that you will spend more money than its really worth, but then again hunting with a gun that you done and possible something to hand down to a family member it <a href="http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff161/medic52/?action=view&current=Picture001-1.jpg this is the finish project. Also not counting a scope as you can see I put a Trijicon on this one (650.00) I have killed a real nice 10 point buck 175 yards DRT. 1- coyote 100 yards and I will take it atleast one day ever year....very frustrating project but in all it was worth it I guess..... 

Edited by medic52 - January/16/2009 at 12:27
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medic, what kind of base and what kind of rings are those that hold the Trijicon scope?
Thanks.
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/16/2009 at 13:07
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Well it sounds like either I dive in the deep end or just tinker.  Another money pit I DON'T need...besides the new one I started here with my 270Win project I already have a boat and two teenagers. 
 
I think I'll start by partially restoring her as she stands.  I found a site that documents how to recover, badly dented and Cosmoline impregnated stocks that intriqued me.
 
He tears down the entire rifle to bit pieces, throws everything into the dishwater and cycles it on heavyduty using cascade and hot dry.  He claims to have done over 100 stocks this way without warpage.  He had before and after pictures of 3 different stocks and all three looked like they had been freshly made.  Almost all the dents were lifted and all the cosmoline was gone.  It did a great job on the metal parts too.
 
I don't know about doing that to the metal parts but I might consider trying it on the stock.
Steam and hot water are standard ways to lifts dents in woodworking.
There is no discernable blueing left on the action or barrel but no signs of rust either.
 
I do enjoy open sites so I might just modify her enough for that.
 
What do you guys think?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/16/2009 at 14:48
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If it were me, I would want to make it a 6.5 Swede..if possible... it would NOT have to be a tack driver, so I wouldn't put a Shilen on it.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2009 at 14:29
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Problem with these projects is that you get so involved.  However the upside is that you can end up with a beautiful custom rifle.  If you are going to rebarrel, get a good one.  Also that is the time you want to get the action trued an lapped.  Once that is done the barrel can be installed and finish chambered.  I would also suggest that the bolt handle be bent.  Timiny makes a wonderful trigger w/Safety for it and will sure inhance your performance.  You can get stocks for the mauser at a lot of different places.  You might try Richards Microfit to give you an idea.
 
End result is that you will have a Custom Mauser... Just for you, the way YOU want it.
You can go as mild or wild as you and your pocketbook wish.
 
If you dont want to go that way,  then take it to a smith and have the headspace checked,  clean her up, set your sights, and blast away.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2009 at 15:07
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One of the neatest custom Mausers I ever saw was a realitively simple and inexpensive job. The owner cut the barrell to 16 inched and turned the steps out of the barrel to give him a light weight tapered barrel. He put a nice set of open sites (don't remember the brand) on it. used a Timiny trigger and replaced the safety with a neat looking safety lever. Put the whole thing in a Fajen full length Monte Carlo stock with a steel checkered butt plate and steel muzzle cap. All the metal had a deep blue finish (except the safety was nickeled) and the wood had a nice shine to it's finish.
This was a handy, rugged, and light rifle that was perfect for the area he hunted in; thick woods, steep hills and large open fields. That was one custom Mauser that I would love to have.
Oh, the steel butt plate was for climbing those steep hills.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2009 at 15:21
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I say shoot it like it is leave it like it is with the exception that you need to sights to work so if that requires having a gunsmith weld more metal on the front sight blade or a different front sight then you need to do it or you wont really be able to enjoy it much but I would not dump a bunch of money in it there are too many cool guns that are out there that would be money better spent.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2009 at 17:48
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Bud, I have found this site to be helpful in the past, good luck http://www.surplusrifle.com/brnovz24/index.asp
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2009 at 18:07
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  Here's another GOOD site. Really good people who know their military and commercial firearms.
                    http://forums.gunboards.com/index.php
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2009 at 19:18
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Originally posted by sc928porsche sc928porsche wrote:

Problem with these projects is that you get so involved.  However the upside is that you can end up with a beautiful custom rifle.  If you are going to rebarrel, get a good one.  Also that is the time you want to get the action trued an lapped.  Once that is done the barrel can be installed and finish chambered.  I would also suggest that the bolt handle be bent.  Timiny makes a wonderful trigger w/Safety for it and will sure inhance your performance.  You can get stocks for the mauser at a lot of different places.  You might try Richards Microfit to give you an idea.
 
End result is that you will have a Custom Mauser... Just for you, the way YOU want it.
You can go as mild or wild as you and your pocketbook wish.
 
If you dont want to go that way,  then take it to a smith and have the headspace checked,  clean her up, set your sights, and blast away.
 
I know exactly what you mean.  I am somewhat afraid to start into it for the $$$ I could easily spend.  I am not sure I want to go the full custom route with a Mauser.  I am still stewing on it.
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2009 at 19:19
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I have a few old Mausers, including a couple of VZ24s.  If you have one with all matching numbers, I would probably not mess with it too much.  Some of these are quite accurate and 8mm Mauser is one of the better allround calibers anyway.  Before doing anything else with it, you should try to see how accurate it is. 

First of all, make sure that headspace is OK if you havn't yet.  It is a pretty good idea on many milsurp rifles to make sure it is safe to shoot.

Then, put up a paper target at 25 yards and figure out where the shots are landing with iron sights.  If you find that the shots are going high, you may need to get a taller sight (about fifteen bucks from tngunparts).  However, Mauser sights generally are not great, so if you want to make a non-permanent alteration, that will also help you see how accurate the rifle is with iron sights, buy an appropriate model from Mojo Sights.  It really aids accurate shooting.

I found that switching to useable sights makes a night-and-day difference with military Mausers.  If it looks like the rifle is a shooter, you can consider putting a scope on it.  Any reasonably competent gunsmith can dril lthree holes in it for a nice one-piece base.  Personally, I might just stick with Mojo Sights.  If you really want to see whether this rifle is a shooter, you can see how well it shoots without drilling and tapping by using an appropriate mount from Accumounts.

ILya
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2009 at 19:23
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Originally posted by BeltFed BeltFed wrote:

One of the neatest custom Mausers I ever saw was a realitively simple and inexpensive job. The owner cut the barrell to 16 inched and turned the steps out of the barrel to give him a light weight tapered barrel. He put a nice set of open sites (don't remember the brand) on it. used a Timiny trigger and replaced the safety with a neat looking safety lever. Put the whole thing in a Fajen full length Monte Carlo stock with a steel checkered butt plate and steel muzzle cap. All the metal had a deep blue finish (except the safety was nickeled) and the wood had a nice shine to it's finish.
This was a handy, rugged, and light rifle that was perfect for the area he hunted in; thick woods, steep hills and large open fields. That was one custom Mauser that I would love to have.
Oh, the steel butt plate was for climbing those steep hills.
   That sounds like a cool gun!  It just might be the way I go for a good reliable fairly inexpensive "beater".  Pennsylvania has more than it's share of mountainness terrain and thickets where a Squeezerised walking stick would work great!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2009 at 19:34
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Originally posted by Urimaginaryfrnd Urimaginaryfrnd wrote:

I say shoot it like it is leave it like it is with the exception that you need to sights to work so if that requires having a gunsmith weld more metal on the front sight blade or a different front sight then you need to do it or you wont really be able to enjoy it much but I would not dump a bunch of money in it there are too many cool guns that are out there that would be money better spent.
 
I have recently shot it using surplus FMJ rounds and was surprised how good it felt against my shoulder, metal butt plate and all.  Bolt is smooth and the barrel is bright with pronounced rifling.  Even the trigger felt pretty good.  I need to play with it some more.  I just picked up some Prvi Partizan 196gr SP from the gunshow and want to compare them to the surplus stuff.  I want to see if I can do some minor sight work.  I have read where you can use epoxy to build up front sight to test then have metal added later.  I'll give that a try first.
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2009 at 19:43
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Originally posted by 300S&W 300S&W wrote:

  Here's another GOOD site. Really good people who know their military and commercial firearms.
                    http://forums.gunboards.com/index.php
 
Tahqua and 300S&W thanks to both of you for the hyperlinks.  I'll definitely check them both out.
 
I guess the prudent thing to do is to take it to a local gunsmith familar with older Mausers and have him evaluate it to see if its worth investing time & $$$ in.  If not, as long as its not dangerous I'll probably just play with it open sights at the range.  My gut reaction is that she is a keeper.  I sure hope so,  even if I did only spend $79 for her from Dunham sports a few years back.
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It would be a lot of fun I have tinkered with the idea myself after talking to numerous people I decide to start off with a commercial action...something inexpensive .ie..savage/stevens/howa...in the end I will end up with a little if not a lot better gun for not all that much more $$ if I find the action..Ive seen them for roughly $200.00. in used cond.
anyway good luck and build something.


Edited by rifle looney - January/27/2009 at 19:55
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Originally posted by koshkin koshkin wrote:

I have a few old Mausers, including a couple of VZ24s.  If you have one with all matching numbers, I would probably not mess with it too much.  Some of these are quite accurate and 8mm Mauser is one of the better allround calibers anyway.  Before doing anything else with it, you should try to see how accurate it is. 

First of all, make sure that headspace is OK if you havn't yet.  It is a pretty good idea on many milsurp rifles to make sure it is safe to shoot.

Then, put up a paper target at 25 yards and figure out where the shots are landing with iron sights.  If you find that the shots are going high, you may need to get a taller sight (about fifteen bucks from tngunparts).  However, Mauser sights generally are not great, so if you want to make a non-permanent alteration, that will also help you see how accurate the rifle is with iron sights, buy an appropriate model from Mojo Sights.  It really aids accurate shooting.

I found that switching to useable sights makes a night-and-day difference with military Mausers.  If it looks like the rifle is a shooter, you can consider putting a scope on it.  Any reasonably competent gunsmith can dril lthree holes in it for a nice one-piece base.  Personally, I might just stick with Mojo Sights.  If you really want to see whether this rifle is a shooter, you can see how well it shoots without drilling and tapping by using an appropriate mount from Accumounts.

ILya
 
Thanks ILya!  Sound advice.  I have always enjoyed the challenge of open sights.  I am definitely going to have it checked out professionally for headspace and all.  I have been thinking that keeping it open but modding it to decent peeps might be the way to go for a while.  I need to find a good local gunsmith first.  I live just east of Hanover, PA near gettysburg and it seems that most of the guys around here specialize in early american hardware and not the imports.  I've gotten some done right snobbish replies to my inquiries.
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Budperm, just be aware that most comercial 8mm ammo is downloaded so it will be safe to shoot in the very old Mausers that had slightly smaller bores. To get the same perfomance as mil. surplus ammo in hunting ammo you either have to handload or buy Norma. 
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Originally posted by BeltFed BeltFed wrote:

Budperm, just be aware that most comercial 8mm ammo is downloaded so it will be safe to shoot in the very old Mausers that had slightly smaller bores. To get the same perfomance as mil. surplus ammo in hunting ammo you either have to handload or buy Norma. 
 
This is something I haven't heard before.  Are you saying the commercial ammo has less powder charge or are you saying that the bullet is actually has smaller diameter?
 
This Rifle was made in the BRNO (Bear No) arsenal in the Czech republic sometime between 1924 and 1942 and is reputed to be very well made and better than the German made versions.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2009 at 21:37
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Most American ammo manufacturersload 8mm Mauser to shoot a 170gr bullet at 2200fps or so.  That makes for nice reduced-recoil loads for youngsters.

Privi ammo is 196gr at ~2450fps is pretty peppy and Norma ammo is hotter yet.

I once decided what I can do with a military Mauser without using any gunsmiths and for as little money as reasonable.  It worked out OK for a first attempt.  Perhaps, I should do a separate thread on that.  I bough a surplus yugo mauser action and messed with it a bit:




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Don't know if you have gotten around to cleaning the stock, but if you are to go that route for your own satisfaction, a lot can be done with it.  I did it because I just like the way it looks and never plan on selling it.

I just finished one myself.

First I stripped it with Citrus Stripper.

Then I ran some fine steel wool over it. 

Then I violated the prime directive.  I took some 220 grit sandpaper to it.  The sandpaper just got clogged with the goo that was still on the wood.  Before I got to real wood, I stopped.

Then I baked it on 200 in my oven.  Only half of it fit at a time.  I then rubbed it down with Alcohol, let dry, and repeated a few times.  A lot of that awful cosmoline came out.

Then I took a damp rag and laid it on the wood and ran a hot iron over it to take out most of the dents.

Then I took fine steel wool to the whole thing.

Then I violated the prime directive again, and rubbed it down with True Oil a couple of times.

I did not reblue it as I am fine with the metal just oiled.

A real shooter.

If you want to add some distance to it, get a S&K rear sight Scope Mount.  They are very solid and get a Long Eye Relief Scout scope.  You should be good up to about 200 yards with that setup.

Tim


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I forgot to add.

I have a Kar98 a K31 and a VZ24.  The K31 is VEERY accurate.  The VZ24, not quite as good, but the action is much smoother than the Kar98.  The VZ24 seems more balanced than the Kar98 and the military safety is much smoother on the VZ24.

Tim
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Originally posted by timgondasr timgondasr wrote:

Don't know if you have gotten around to cleaning the stock, but if you are to go that route for your own satisfaction, a lot can be done with it.  I did it because I just like the way it looks and never plan on selling it.

I just finished one myself.

First I stripped it with Citrus Stripper.

Then I ran some fine steel wool over it. 

Then I violated the prime directive.  I took some 220 grit sandpaper to it.  The sandpaper just got clogged with the goo that was still on the wood.  Before I got to real wood, I stopped.

Then I baked it on 200 in my oven.  Only half of it fit at a time.  I then rubbed it down with Alcohol, let dry, and repeated a few times.  A lot of that awful cosmoline came out.

Then I took a damp rag and laid it on the wood and ran a hot iron over it to take out most of the dents.

Then I took fine steel wool to the whole thing.

Then I violated the prime directive again, and rubbed it down with True Oil a couple of times.

I did not reblue it as I am fine with the metal just oiled.

A real shooter.

If you want to add some distance to it, get a S&K rear sight Scope Mount.  They are very solid and get a Long Eye Relief Scout scope.  You should be good up to about 200 yards with that setup.

Tim


 
Hi Tim,
 
I haven't found time yet to tear into the Mauser.  I have been concentrating on my new 270Win.  I did order the rear peep sights from Mojo.  I am planning on installing them later tonight.  AS for the stock, I think I am going try the dishwasher trick.  The guy that uses it has done over 100 stocks.  I will save tons of time getting rid of the soaked in cosmolene and the dents in the wood as well.
I'll post as things progress.
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