mil-dot vs bdc

I'm new to this, but here I go.........

Depends on your budget.

In my mind most people thing of the BDC and mildot scopes the wrong way.  The reticle basically offers several more aiming points at a given magnification.  We say that it doesn't "match" my trajectory, so it is not good, but really it doesn't "match" any trajectory. 

Welcome to OT Asnakeye,real good info 8shots.

A BDC is too generic for the variety of loads available. A mil-dot really won't help for shots under 300-350 yards and is only worth it if you're willing to learn how to use it...Then it still should never be used to range a game animal. Do the humane thing and use a laser range finder. In most cases, a good ol' duplex reticle and a maximum point blank range zero within a tight 8" kill zone will do just great and certainly better than relying on a system you don't know thoroughly.

Guys you are in luck! I just returned from the Texas Trophy Hunters Show in Fort Worth. Stopped by the Nikon booth and was thourghly impressed by their big screen TV showing the new Spot On Ballastic Match Technology Program. This site will save you hours trying to figure things out and $$$ on ammo going who knows where. Check it out. Pretty cool. Maybe I'm a bit of a hunting/techno geek, but for me, taking the guess work out of your shot might be the difference between a wall hanger and a cull. Let me know what you think? 

Thank you all for the information. This gives me alot to think about. Maybe even more questions !

So are you saying that the BDC/Mil-dot , points of impact (or yardage values) will be different at different power settings ?

Wow, I just looked at the Nikon/spoton program, and I just answered my question.Yes the power setting does change the point of impact.

OK then......................

From what I can tell the SpotOn program only works with the BDC reticles by labeling the circles at different powers on the scope.

No matter how many programs these companies develop,bottom line" Practice Practice Practice "

To get back to your original question, what is the best reticule?

Tough question as shooters can vary so much. I think the Monarch is a fine scope and an excellent excellent value. I do however find the BDC to be to much/busy for me and find it reduces my taget acquision and can cover much of the target especially at longer ranges.

Amen! No substitute for range time. On the other hand, make the most of it with what you have.

Practice/Range time is critical to proficiencyaccuracy, Like golf or any other other endeavor.

Gerald Perry's Exbal Ballistics program has had a 2nd focal plane reticle subtension change with magnification change for about 5-10 years now. I think most of those other programs are based off his.

ASNAKEYE wrote: OK then...................... With a standard duplex reticle sighted in at 200 yards on 4 power , and I shoot at 300 yrds. and hit 5 in. low on 4 power , will it still be 5 in. low if I change the power setting to 12 ? Or will the point of impact change ? [ The Nikon/spoton program would not let me change the power setting on the 4x16x42( with a nikonplex reticle ) scope I chose to see if it would make a differance at different yardages ?]

Very well stated. That is what I  found that I really appreciate about the SpotOn Program, it takes all that into account for you so you can concentrate on making the shot. You also don't have to take the 10-15 sec. to dial up or down your distance on your elevation knobs. Quick and easy because as we all know, sometimes you don't get a lot of time to make that critical shot.

I concur 100%. I wouldn't want to show-up opening day of deer season with my Nikon Monarch 2.5-10x42 with BDC reticle only sighted in and shot at 100 yards. I sight in at 100 ( my ranges max. distance) then I practice shooting using the BDC circles. Making sure they are hitting where they should be on the target.

The problem with using marking on a scope @ 100 yards to determine come-ups at longer distances is that it isn't as accurate a test as actually shooting out to those distances. Nor will it give you any wind practice. (Wind drift @ 100 yards is neglible...great for zeroing, but not for learning to shoot at longer ranges). The plain and simple truth is that using a maximum point blank range zero with a tight kill zone of 8-10" will work with any reticle and any decent hunting caliber to get you out to 300-350 yards.

Beyond that, it's a whole other game and then you really need to learn how to shoot in the wind. Other than when zeroing in, I never go to the range anymore unless it's blowing at least 15 mph. It's a humbling experience out past 400 yards if you're honest with yourself that only the first shot counts. So to recap, either keep it simple or make the investment of time and money in practice and the proper equipment. You can make 90% of the shots that any hunter should make with a simple, rugged scope and decent range time.

P.S. Only an FFP (first focal plane) scope keeps the relationship between reticle markings and the target size constant (that is they both get smaller with reduced magnification or larger as you increase it). That means you can range on any power.


Edited by jonoMT - August/22/2010 at 11:18

I completely agree, If your shooting inside of 250 yards it addresses about 96% of shots. Windage is actually more of a concern past just over about 300 yards over elevation(depending on your weapon, initial sighted in distance and of couse wind speed). Again most would not need to account for this, but at longer ranges it can be actually the most significant consideration.

Here is a test i did recently using the NP-R1 reticle in a 3.5-15x NF on top of this Sav. Super Striker/8 twist McGowen shooting the 65 JLK Low Drag at some velocity. The 1st ballistics program profile for this load was off by so many MOA, so i plotted the correction into Exbal and it gave me another profile that was closer to correct, but not perfect. Then it was over to JBM where my data gave me a G5 drag fucntion at another velocity. Finall i shot at 600 yds. and hit the upper left corner of the plate, .5 MOA off. The profile gave me a .375 BC @ 3100 mv, and it was dead on. Here's the 325, 400 and 525 1st-shot connections for this soon to be coyote rig--

BDC are really nice to have for holder.  Problem was that it really only worked at on mag setting unless you wanted to punch all the numbers yourself.  The new Nikon software does all that work for you, but is still no substitute for actual range time at all ranges you want to shoot.  It you are going to shoot only inside 300 to 400 yards, a simple duplex is the easiest to use.  I like the BDCs and mildot scopes.  Takes time to learn, but can be great once you have it down.

When it really comes down to push or shove--i'll take a ballistic reticle that's cald. for my load as close to even hundred yd. intervals as possible. Even if it means calibrated to a power lower then the highest. It takes little time to set the power ring correctly and for 0-~600 yds. that's accurate enuf. Have a buddy that killed 4 LR coyotes last season, and 3 of them were with reticle (VH in 6.5-20 Leup.). I'll take a tree reticle like VH also, since i like a windage system rather than just guessing