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Leupold Mark 4 LR/T

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2015 at 16:30
cmr287 View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
Optics GrassHopper


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Good early evening, I have a couple questions for the experts out there?

1) I bought this scope and would like to dial the scope back to Zero. Reason being I don't know how many folks have turned the turrets.

2) This is on a Rem 700 Tactical with a 20 inch barrel in .308. I went from a Millet to the Leupold Mark 4 LR/T w/ Mildot reticle. Recommendations as to what range to initially zero.

Thank you for taking the time to look at my questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

V/R
Chris
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2015 at 17:09
Rancid Coolaid View Drop Down
Optics Jedi Master
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1.  Define "zero".  Do you mean the center of the adjustment range?  If so, go one way till the turret stops (don't force it any further) and start counting clicks back in the opposite direction.  Go till it stops again, write down the number (lest you forget it and have to start over.)  Roll back half the clicks, then you are at the center of the mechanical adjustment for elevation.  You can do the same for windage.

2.  At what to start depends on your comfort level.  I usually bore sight (looking down the bore with the bolt removed) at a target 100 yards away, put the target in the center of the bore and adjust the crosshairs to put the target in the center of the crosshairs, that should get you on paper.  Some people do this at 25 or 50 yards, I am not usually so far off that I am not on paper - but some do 25 yards as a starting point.

Good luck.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2015 at 19:31
cmr287 View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
Optics GrassHopper


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Thank you for the reply, Great information. However I am looking for a 300 meter zero, is there a are I can use closer than 300 to Boresight that would put me very close to 300 meters when I go to confirm. (Like zeroing 5.56 at 25 meters for a 300 meter zero) that kind of thing.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2015 at 19:39
Steelbenz View Drop Down
Optics Master Extraordinaire
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ROLL TIDE ROLL

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What bullet will you primarily shoot with this rifle?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2015 at 20:04
cmr287 View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
Optics GrassHopper


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until I start loading to find what she likes right now its 150 gr winchester power point...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/28/2015 at 10:02
billyburl2 View Drop Down
Optics Master Extraordinaire
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For a long range rifle, I would suggest a 100 yard or meter zero. This way all shots are dialed up on the scope. If you have a 300 meter zero, and the shots are closer, you have to remember to dial down on the knob. It just adds a level of complexity that most don't need...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/28/2015 at 13:58
Rancid Coolaid View Drop Down
Optics Jedi Master
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I agree, mostly. I advocate setting the rifle up for thr shot that will most often be taken. If you will almost never shoot inside 300 yards, set a 300 yard zero. If most shots will be inside 300, set up with a 100 yard zero and dial in the longer shots.

I am not certain what commercial ammo from a 20" barrel would be on target at 300 yards when dropping and some closer yardage when rising.
With what you wish to do, precision mid-range shooting, there are really no shortcuts. Get on paper at whatever range , then confirm at increased ranges.
Lots of folks ask, but there is no way I (or anyone else) can predict accurate and precise dope on your weapon with your ammo, your scope, your environmental conditions, and your finger on the trigger. These data points require you on the range and you on the trigger.

I still say bore sight at 100 or less, then walk it out to whatever you want. Drop will be in the ballpark of a mil going from 100 to 300, so once on paper at 100, you will be well on paper moving out to 300.

Hope that helps.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2015 at 08:08
cmr287 View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
Optics GrassHopper


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 Thank you all for the help. Ill set up for the 300 yard shot. I'm looking to get into small mid-range  comps 400-800 yrds, Primarily to hone my skills against great shooters and build my knowlege from them. I just bought 3 different types of primers, powders and bullets to mix and match to load and find out what this rifle likes. When I load, I'll load 1000 rds. Right now Im working with Lee Percission Modern Reloading 2nd addition.

 Break
 
 I zeroed the scope,  and did and actual boresight at 100 yards however have not yet confirmed it at 100 yards yed. Im hoping to do this, this coming Sunday.
 
 Break
 
 The commercial ammo I have is spare stuff now.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2015 at 09:50
Rancid Coolaid View Drop Down
Optics Jedi Master
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If one of the powders is Varget and one of the bullets is Hornady Amax, 175 or 168, you should find something the gun really likes.

In reloading, as in shooting, it is all about precision, accuracy, and reproducible.  Do everything exactly the same every time. Every time!  Did I mention every time?

And is the base on which the scope is mounted flat (0 MOA) or a canted base?  
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