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Kimber 8400 Mounts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/17/2009 at 02:11
JF4545 View Drop Down
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Hi Guys,

I bought some Leupold Brand Kimber 8400 Dovetail Mounts. I took the standards off because im going with some Dovetail Gloss Mounts and bigger 30mm Dovetail Rings. Now some of you have seen this before Im sure, the new Dovetail Rear Mount hangs over the rear opening of the receiver(Yes its the right Mount) I checked part numbers several times. So the question is will this not be in the way of putting a single shell in the chamber? Or worse yet ejecting one with the bolt? How could they have designed something that looks so bad.....
I need to go with a different mounts & Rings or put the old matte ones on and find a 30mm rear Gloss Ring that will work.
 
Any ideas?
Thanks!
JF
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/17/2009 at 07:26
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  I believe the overhang issue is due to production bases being used for multiple applications rather than for one particular rifle.  I've never had a function problem due to it though.  What I do if the base sticks out past the ring is grind it flush with the ring.  Looks better to me.
   There are a number of manufacturers who sell 30mm gloss finish rings to fit your Kimber bases if you decide to go that route.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/17/2009 at 10:57
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I got it mounted last night, did not tighten anything down..I think I need a different base that does not stick out..I liked the standard mounts that were on there just fine but I was increasing ring size plus going gloss... I will find what I need at Wholesale Sports or online..
The 30mm 4.5.x14x40 LR Leupold looks good on there..
 
 
Thanks!
JF
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/17/2009 at 11:04
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Go with Talley base ring combo.  http://swfa.com/Kimber-C2555.aspx  They are a pretty sweet setup.  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/17/2009 at 11:05
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Or if you want them really sleek go with these.  http://swfa.com/Kimber-C2063.aspx

Then add the rings.  http://swfa.com/Talley-Fixed-Scope-1-Rings-C744.aspx


Edited by supertool73 - July/17/2009 at 11:06
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/17/2009 at 11:11
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Thanks Jason,
I will order some of these, I do not like what I have at all. It seems I have now become a collector of rings and bases. Kinda spendy hobby eh.
 
 
Thanks!
J.........
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/17/2009 at 13:02
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This probably isn't what you want to hear, but I never, ever use the dovetailed rings. Ever!  I did, long ago, and had problems.  I've recommend several friends not use them, some didn't listen, and a few of the "some" have later come to me with problems and in need of a better option.

They are inherently weaker than a good bolt-on ring setup, and have inherently more capacity to move without your noticing (in my opinion.)

The Talleys are fantastic, you will be pleased.

My advice is to always avoid dovetailed rings.  They are quick and easy to install - and few things worth-while in life are quick and easy.
FYI.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/17/2009 at 17:09
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 I agree with Rancid to a point, BUT;

 His comments do not apply to Dual Dovetail systems ( the ones Leupold makes with the  rotary dovetail stud in both front AND rear rings.)  They are very strong, cannot loosen at all in use at the ring/base juncture, unlike "bolt-on" systems, which certainly can vibrate loose under certain conditions.
 I wouldn't call them particularly quick and easy to install though, but they're not bad, either.
 I'm a huge fan of Picatinny/Weaver types, but I cannot fault all dovetail systems.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/17/2009 at 18:09
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RONK,
Ive found that Dual Dovetails and 2 pc. base works fine loading and unloading rounds, spent or not. Both rings are exactly the same, its the base that hangs over the edge of the reciever a little bit that bugs me. I will try it out this weekend maybe, and see if I can accept it the way it is. I ordered a Warne 2 pc. base and rings from SWFA, but they will not be shipped for some time because of backorder... One thing I did notice is the screws were not as long on the newer bases. Other than that its SEEMS pretty stout, just does not look perfect in my eyes.
Thanks!
JF
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/18/2009 at 07:32
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  I've got 1pc Talley's on my S&W and the rear one overhangs about 1/8th".  Still LUV em'.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/18/2009 at 23:17
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Originally posted by JF4545 JF4545 wrote:

RONK,
Ive found that Dual Dovetails and 2 pc. base works fine loading and unloading rounds, spent or not. Both rings are exactly the same, its the base that hangs over the edge of the reciever a little bit that bugs me. I will try it out this weekend maybe, and see if I can accept it the way it is. I ordered a Warne 2 pc. base and rings from SWFA, but they will not be shipped for some time because of backorder... One thing I did notice is the screws were not as long on the newer bases. Other than that its SEEMS pretty stout, just does not look perfect in my eyes.
Thanks!
JF
 One thing that you need to understand about the Leupold Dual Dovetail system is that it should be looked at as sort of a "permanent" installation; meaning that if you wish to remove the scope from the rifle, you must first remove the scope from the rings in order to twist each ring lower half out (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) of engagement with it's respective base.
 
(I like to switch scopes around, so I don't use them too much anymore.}
 
Watch those base screws; be sure they are long enough to get plenty deep into the receiver without interfering with the bolt travel or lockup below. A minimum of 4 threads into the receiver used to be a rule of thumb. 
 
If it looks good to your eyes, go for it. You certainly won't have any durability issues with Dual Dovetails; they'll handle any recoil or other punishment if they're installed properly.
 You won't break off the dovetail studs without wrecking your scope or rifle or both.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 09:38
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I agree with Ronk on the dual dovetail systems.  They are not to be confused with the standard dovetail front / windage screw rear mount system that I too don't care for.  The dual dovetail mounts are as strong as anything available, stronger than most, as once installed, they cannot move.  The weak link is the base screws to the receiver.

If you want a dual dovetail system on your Kimber without the base overhanging the ejection port, and if you have access to a machine shop, you can always get a Burris "Gunsmith" dovetail base, which sells for $10 and already has the dovetail socket machined in place...
http://swfa.com/Burris-Gunsmith-Bases-P3680.aspx
The remainder of the base blank is just an un-machined square piece of steel.  You, your machine shop, or your gunsmith can then contour the underside to match the radius of your receiver, drill and countersink the screw holes in the correct location, shape the base to complement the appearance of the front base, then finish the base to match the front.  Then, you are free to make the base any size or shape you wish.

I used this very approach recently for a rifle that I wanted to use the dual dovetail system, but dual dovetail bases weren't available for it.

All dovetail "turn-in" style bases are compatible with anyone's dovetail style rings, whether from Leupold, Burris, whoever.

If the above sounds like too much hassle and you're willing to try a different mount system that is very nice looking, S&K's 2-piece mounts don't overhang the Kimber's ejection port.  I know because I have their mounts on my Kimber 84.
http://www.scopemounts.com/index.html?main.html


Edited by RifleDude - July/19/2009 at 09:41
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 13:26
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Thanks Ted,
The S&K's look very good and I would buy them. What Ive found though is to have proper eye relief for me and the particular scope Im putting on the rifle, I have to use hangover mount. Otherwise the scope is to far back and I need that extra .750" to get the scope right on the money.. I do not like the hangover look! But I just tried loading and ejecting shells as fast as ol' Chuck ConnersSharp Shooter with his ol' lever action and kicks that brass out just fine. Plus as I said the scope is ALL the way forward as it needs to be for me...Ted if you look pics under Firearms you see my Kimber and notice how far the scope is sitting, well its just sitting on there basically and I had to move it ALL the way forward to get good eye relief. What Im saying is that no other base will work properly that Im aware of. JF
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 13:31
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  Sounds like you need a LOP adjustment.  It's too short for you.  I'm sure Ted knows the std LOP for a Kimber.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 13:42
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S&W  I do not even want to go there,, Ok,Ok, tell me what does LOP stand for. I just know this is gonna cost moreBig Grin
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 13:52
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Roll on Floor LaughingOf course it will!  LOP=length of pull and is the distance from the trigger face to the back of the rifle pad.  Std is around 13 1/2".  People with longer arms usually require a longer pull.  One way to test it is to put the rifle butt in the crook of your arm pointing straight up. Your trigger finger should just reach the trigger face.  My guess is that your finger is out past it?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 13:56
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Originally posted by 300S&W 300S&W wrote:

  Sounds like you need a LOP adjustment.  It's too short for you.  I'm sure Ted knows the std LOP for a Kimber.


It's listed as 13.63".  As you mentioned, 13.5" is pretty standard on factory rifles.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 14:02
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Thats too Funny! All  could see is dollar bills. I thought I would have to Lop (LOP) something else off. I just had a back surgery 4/15/09 and this Tuesday 7/21 Im having another. The older I get the sh*t that keeps falling off..Smile

 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 14:07
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Originally posted by JF4545 JF4545 wrote:

Ted if you look pics under Firearms you see my Kimber and notice how far the scope is sitting, well its just sitting on there basically and I had to move it ALL the way forward to get good eye relief. What Im saying is that no other base will work properly that Im aware of. JF


Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are saying, but is the scope properly positioned for your eye relief in the pics you posted?  If so, the S&K's will work.  Even if you still had to move the scope forward some, they may still work.  Take a look at my response in that thread for further explanation.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 14:36
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Ted,
I just posted 2 new pics, the scope is NOW mounted with proper eye relief for me. The first pictures were not with proper eye relief the scope was just barely tightened down. Im sorry for the confusion.. I would like to to go with S&K bases and rings or even Warne will work for that matter...But this is what I got,  cannot move the scope back any more.
 
Thanks !
JF
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 14:37
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The rifle itself fits me perfectly, Im not long armed by any means either..
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 15:20
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  Maybe I'm looking at this wrong but you say if you use std base/ring positioning in the rear,the scope is too close to you for proper eye relief.  Moving the scope approx 3/4" forward solves the problem.  Therefore,mounting the scope with the rear base/ring in the position you like and moving the whole rifle forward 3/4" via 3/4" added to the butt of the stock(increase LOP 3/4") should put the scope where you need it for proper eye relief.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 15:22
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 This is too confusing to keep up with two threads going on at the same time featuring the same rifle!
 Hope you get it to work out OK, Julio!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 15:30
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Yes I agree Ron
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/19/2009 at 15:39
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Earl,
 
Please take a look at the last 2 pics posted under "Rings and Bases" It reads eye relief Kimber.. Then you will see what I was talking about.. Its really no big deal the whole outfit works fine. I should never had posted on 2 different forums and I apoligize to everyone for any confusion it may have caused.
 
Thanks for the help!
JF.........
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