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Inspired by the GroundHog thread

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 19:37
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After reading about the 84 yard ground hog shot with a bow... it begs the question.  What bow is everybody shooting??? 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 19:42
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Scooter, I was just going to ask the same question that's cool,  yes guy's what gives I want a new bow start recommending but for my sakes I do not want a Mathews thank you.
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   Mathews Conquest Pro. '95 model.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 19:42
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I'm using an "Akita special". He's taken down about 100 birds, a few gophers, couple of rats and mice, and a possum.




Edited by mike650 - May/01/2009 at 20:18
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 19:43
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I gave up on bows after a shot a possum in the chest and the bolt point was out his rear leg,i pulled the bolt out walked away and a few mins later the possum got up and walked off! 
Possums are hardcore and off limits for me.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 19:43
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Originally posted by 300S&W 300S&W wrote:

   Mathews Conquest Pro. '95 model.


Thunbs Up
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 19:46
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To answer Scooters question I currently shoot a PSE at 60# but need to up grade.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 20:14
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The best bow is the one you can shoot!!! I shoot a Pearson quad 440 and drill bottle caps at 20 yards, golf balls at 25, tennis balls at 30, softball at 35.  I never shoot anything past 35 yards, that is a personal rule. I want to pick the hair I stick, also I believe that you should not shoot game at a range you don't practice at.  By the way, never shoot a squirrel with a field tip. Drilled that furry rat shoulder to shoulder at 20 yards, the fletching was the only thing that stopped from going clean through.  That sucker ran up an old oak with a 7 dollar arrow. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 20:30
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Parker EZ-draw 33, yes it's an old  mans bow.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 20:35
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Reflex Excursion 70#  28.5" draw.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 20:45
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Originally posted by Steelbenz Steelbenz wrote:

The best bow is the one you can shoot!!! I shoot a Pearson quad 440 and drill bottle caps at 20 yards, golf balls at 25, tennis balls at 30, softball at 35.  I never shoot anything past 35 yards, that is a personal rule. I want to pick the hair I stick, also I believe that you should not shoot game at a range you don't practice at.  By the way, never shoot a squirrel with a field tip. Drilled that furry rat shoulder to shoulder at 20 yards, the fletching was the only thing that stopped from going clean through.  That sucker ran up an old oak with a 7 dollar arrow. 
 
I just had to laugh at your squirrel story and the possum story... Several years back I was hunting turkeys in a dry creek bed.  I was sitting up about 10 feet on the bank and the birds were walking the creek bed.. I shot this bird and the arrow went thru and into the dirt pinning the bird to the ground... Well he just got his wits about him, pushed up with his legs and off he went with half of my busted shaft in him...  Never found him...
 
I shoot a browning which is a PSE... But unlike kickboxer,, my old shoulders can't take 70# anymore... Getting old really sucks...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 20:46
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OOOOPS, I meant Helo.. not kickboxer...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 21:08
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 70 pound (@ 28"; I draw around 30"), Howard Hill 'Big Five' longbow.  
 72 inches long. Laminated black glass and five laminations of split Tonkin Bamboo...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 21:31
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After I dislocated my shoulder I could hardly pull 55#.  I got back up to 70 last year.  Sooner or later I will end up having a surgery on it.

What arrows do you guys shoot, and what tips?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 23:16
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2009 at 23:17
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carbon express hunters 31 inch with 115 gr 3 blade broadheads
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2009 at 00:23
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   Gold Tip Hunters w/100gr Thunderheads and 3-4" feathers.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2009 at 02:27
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Originally posted by Steelbenz Steelbenz wrote:

The best bow is the one you can shoot!!!
 
I believe that you should not shoot game at a range you don't practice at. 
 
Agree 100%   There are bows that give a decided edge to each individual. There are important choices to be made before shopping a bow. Longbow, recurve or compound. The LB and recurve are generally shot fingers only. You can use a release, but I don't know anyone who does. I prefer compound and have more experience there. So you decide, fingers or release. I always recommend a release because you eliminate alot of potential error and shooting form problems. If you do choose to try fingers then that dictates getting a longer wheel to wheel bow, (less pinch on the fingers). A release is good on any bow short or long. Then will you use fixed or adjustable sights? After that will you have a peep in addition to a kisser button. There are a variety of peep styles and sizes to consider as well as arrow rests. Everyone has a favorite, but pay attention to function. Ole murphy loves to mess with bow hunters. The simpler the better, beware of extra cables, tubes or anything that can dryrot, fray or just not handle the elements well. Most bows new or used will have some stuff already on it. Unless you know you don't like or trust a component, give it a try. Nothing like learning for yourself what something is about. Rests don't need to be complicated to give you what you need. The key is making sure it is set right for you.
 
Now that you have some idea about release or not, sights, peep and rest. What about pull weight. 55# will take any whitetail  out to 60+ yds. so the key is what are you able to pull and hold without grunting, straining or dislocating a shoulder. Plus you can work your way up if your not happy with 55/60# to start with. Anyway unless you are a seasoned bow hunter I'd suggest a bow with a 55 to 65/70 wt. adjustment. Draw length is the most important factor fo the whole setup. If you don't get that right you will always have form and performance issues. Most any gun/bow shop will have a draw length scale bow. Just have the bow tec watch your draw and read your length. Now you can start pickin at some bows. Any bow made in the last 4 yrs. will be very close in performance based on each category of wheel to wheel length X draw length X pull weight X let-off. And there is that pay extra for the name factor. All these combined will establish potential speed, noise and temperment of the bow. Typically shorter wheel to wheel bows are less forgiving than the longer ones. I mean a slight pull, twitch or flub at release will have far more effect on the shot than with a longer bow. But the short bows are great in heavy cover and for packing so you have to decide what fits you best.
 
Once you've made that purchase there is one thing that has to be done to have any chance for consistant success. Shoot the thing all the time! Any bow you shoot all the time should be a bow that you will be confident with.
 
Shooting distance is crutial and has everything to do with confidence. Any bow set to 60# or more will consistantly make bullseye out to 80/90 yds. And everyone should practice shooting to extended ranges like that. You will find that it really isn't hard to hit target at these distances and you will also find that your shooting form and disipline will greatly improve. When you partice start at 10 yds and shoot three arrows and then 20yds. three more and so on out to atleast 60 or 70yds. this way you are building arm and shoulder memory and finding that it doesn't wear you out too fast. Alternate and start at long shots and work in and vise versa. Is it ethical to shoot a animal at 60/70yds. That is up to the situation and the ethics of the individual. But the benifit is that, where you may have been uncomfortable with a 30 or 40 yd. shot. You now have complete confidence in those distances. Plus you may discover that your bow shoots 40 or 50yds. better that any other.
 
PSE, Bear, Browning, Parker, Hoyt, Matthews and many others will do what you want to do. Where I see difference other than price is in the actual weight of the bow and riser and limb design. To me Matthews is heavy and down right ugly, but that has no effect on it's performance. I've shot Bear, Browning and Hoyt. I miss that old Bear and may try a new one some day. The Browning was light and fast but for me very temprimental to weather. I now have a Hoyt Havoc and have no interest in changing right now. It is short, fast, quiet and I have developed a confidence with it that I don't want to mess with. I started useing Goldtip XT hunter carbon arrows over five yrs. ago and still have some of those arrows. They are amazingly durable and stay straight and consistant very well. I have a couple of those first ones that have been thru a number of deer and are ready for this season too. I use the Muzzy 100gr. and have no interest in changing. They shoot the same as my field points and bust bone with ease. My prefered shot is quarting away aiming for the oppoisite shoulder with intent of breaking that shoulder bone. When I do that I rarely track more than 30yds. Ofcourse there are always those exceptions. Unless I just change for the sake of change you will keep seeing Goldtips and muzzy's hanging on my Hoyt.
Shooting ground pigs at 80+ yds Is not so hard. You should go get you one. It's a mighty good feeling.     Pig Robin Hood
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2009 at 07:16
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  Excellent  GREAT post Sarge!!  Even though I shoot an ugly Mathews. LOL  Like you I believe in keeping it simple. I shoot fingers(two under),a five pin sight(practice out to 60yds),no peep,no stabilizer,and a NAP flipper rest.  Been shooting this way for the better part of 25yrs.  Having said that,and refering to compounds here,if you've never shot one I don't suggest starting out this way(I didn't)as it's more critical in every aspect of shooting a bow. Only thing I'll add to your post is that the potential buyer MAKE SURE to find a Pro Shop that they feel comfortable with and will work with them.  They SHOULD have them shooting good groups at 20 to 30yds with consistancy,at least until they tire out,before they leave. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2009 at 07:27
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Originally posted by rifle looney rifle looney wrote:

Scooter, I was just going to ask the same question that's cool,  yes guy's what gives I want a new bow start recommending but for my sakes I do not want a Mathews thank you.
 
The good news is... most all of the bows out there are really very good quality.  You will get lots of varying opinions etc.....  The best opinion is the bow that shoots well for you is what you want, no matter the price... However that doesn't work when your shopping new.
 
I bought two new bows this past xmas.  I did a ton of research.  I do not and have never bought the best of the best.  No matter if I could afford it or not.  I have too many hobbys to pull that off.  So I look at company stability, customer reviews, even some of the trade rag reviews, and warranty.  Then I go for the touch and feel test, talk to the sales folks at bass pro, cabelas, and private shops... I must admit, i'm rarely disappointed in my selections but again.. I do my homework...
 
I'm also a poor person to ask about durability of most things.  I take OVERYLY good care of all the toys/tools/goodies I buy.  I still have fishing reels bought in the 1980-1983 time frame that are in perfect working condition (bought from walmart (shimanos))..
 
Anyway, I was shopping for the PSE Brute but at bargain prices for the 07 models.  Cabelas sold them out before I could snag 2 of them.  Then discovered that Browning is now made by PSE and the Browning Myst is the identical bow.  Of course the Brownings carried a $75 - $100 upcharge for that Browning name... But I'm persistent and found 2 Browning Mysts on Ebay from the Poorfish.com seller for 275.00 a piece.  These bows were originally $425.00 and up depending on where you looked.  When they came in, one of them was the newer model where they shaved a few ounces of the weight. 
 
I'm no bow expert, but I talked to a lot of folks that are.  One thing I stayed away from where the eliptical cams.  Seems the way the energy curve is released you can get varying results.  So I stuck to a model with simple round cams and not multiple sets of them either.  These bows shoot fantastic, are very quiet (to me), are consistent and I don't get much hand vibration.  Bottom line is, I'm happy.
 
Of course, I was shooting a 23 year old Browning Compound... So maybe I was just very easy to please.
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I had a Hoyt Magnatec, with a poured/cast magnesium riser...it was the best shooting,  most quiet bow that I have ever shot.  The ones with the machined/milled risers were louder for some reason.  And with bows, quiet is 'more gooder' than speed.IMO
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2009 at 08:15
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Originally posted by 300S&W 300S&W wrote:

  Excellent  GREAT post Sarge!!  


+1
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2009 at 08:41
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Originally posted by swtucker swtucker wrote:

I had a Hoyt Magnatec, with a poured/cast magnesium riser...it was the best shooting,  most quiet bow that I have ever shot.  The ones with the machined/milled risers were louder for some reason.  And with bows, quiet is 'more gooder' than speed.IMO
  I also shot a Hoyt compound when I was in my physical prime, and before I switched back to longbows and recurves. It was a cast riser Pro-Medalist with heavy Pro-Hunter limbs, set up with a PSE overdraw shelf. I used a release and shot it every day for a couple years.
 With a string peep and sight pins, I could keep them on a softball at 60 yards.
I usually shot it at around 85-88 pounds, but had worked myself up to 93 after months of diligent practice. It once put an arrow through a mule deer lengthwise at 40 yards, and the arrow flew on down the canyon and buried the head in an aspen!.
 It was a great bow, but I like the traditional aspect of stickbows in my old age.
I haven't hunted for a couple years, need to get motivated and back into it!
 
edited for a spelling error.


Edited by RONK - May/02/2009 at 08:45
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2009 at 09:34
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Black Widow MA-II and a 21st Century Nova
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2009 at 09:45
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 Black Widows are sweet. I never heard of anybody who had one and didn't like it.
 I also have Bighorn takedown 66-inch recurve that draws 64 pounds. That is a nice smooth recurve, but for some odd reason, I shoot the lonbow better.
 It's super light to carry and silent to shoot. The only thing I don't like about hunting with a longbow is the back-quiver. I prefer a bowquiver, but never found one that worked well on a longbow.
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