| Steelbenz wrote:|
The best bow is the one you can shoot!!!
I believe that you should not shoot game at a range you don't practice at.
Agree 100% There are bows that give a decided edge to each individual. There are important choices to be made before shopping a bow. Longbow, recurve or compound. The LB and recurve are generally shot fingers only. You can use a release, but I don't know anyone who does. I prefer compound and have more experience there. So you decide, fingers or release. I always recommend a release because you eliminate alot of potential error and shooting form problems. If you do choose to try fingers then that dictates getting a longer wheel to wheel bow, (less pinch on the fingers). A release is good on any bow short or long. Then will you use fixed or adjustable sights? After that will you have a peep in addition to a kisser button. There are a variety of peep styles and sizes to consider as well as arrow rests. Everyone has a favorite, but pay attention to function. Ole murphy loves to mess with bow hunters. The simpler the better, beware of extra cables, tubes or anything that can dryrot, fray or just not handle the elements well. Most bows new or used will have some stuff already on it. Unless you know you don't like or trust a component, give it a try. Nothing like learning for yourself what something is about. Rests don't need to be complicated to give you what you need. The key is making sure it is set right for you.
Now that you have some idea about release or not, sights, peep and rest. What about pull weight. 55# will take any whitetail out to 60+ yds. so the key is what are you able to pull and hold without grunting, straining or dislocating a shoulder. Plus you can work your way up if your not happy with 55/60# to start with. Anyway unless you are a seasoned bow hunter I'd suggest a bow with a 55 to 65/70 wt. adjustment. Draw length is the most important factor fo the whole setup. If you don't get that right you will always have form and performance issues. Most any gun/bow shop will have a draw length scale bow. Just have the bow tec watch your draw and read your length. Now you can start pickin at some bows. Any bow made in the last 4 yrs. will be very close in performance based on each category of wheel to wheel length X draw length X pull weight X let-off. And there is that pay extra for the name factor. All these combined will establish potential speed, noise and temperment of the bow. Typically shorter wheel to wheel bows are less forgiving than the longer ones. I mean a slight pull, twitch or flub at release will have far more effect on the shot than with a longer bow. But the short bows are great in heavy cover and for packing so you have to decide what fits you best.
Once you've made that purchase there is one thing that has to be done to have any chance for consistant success. Shoot the thing all the time! Any bow you shoot all the time should be a bow that you will be confident with.
Shooting distance is crutial and has everything to do with confidence. Any bow set to 60# or more will consistantly make bullseye out to 80/90 yds. And everyone should practice shooting to extended ranges like that. You will find that it really isn't hard to hit target at these distances and you will also find that your shooting form and disipline will greatly improve. When you partice start at 10 yds and shoot three arrows and then 20yds. three more and so on out to atleast 60 or 70yds. this way you are building arm and shoulder memory and finding that it doesn't wear you out too fast. Alternate and start at long shots and work in and vise versa. Is it ethical to shoot a animal at 60/70yds. That is up to the situation and the ethics of the individual. But the benifit is that, where you may have been uncomfortable with a 30 or 40 yd. shot. You now have complete confidence in those distances. Plus you may discover that your bow shoots 40 or 50yds. better that any other.
PSE, Bear, Browning, Parker, Hoyt, Matthews and many others will do what you want to do. Where I see difference other than price is in the actual weight of the bow and riser and limb design. To me Matthews is heavy and down right ugly, but that has no effect on it's performance. I've shot Bear, Browning and Hoyt. I miss that old Bear and may try a new one some day. The Browning was light and fast but for me very temprimental to weather. I now have a Hoyt Havoc and have no interest in changing right now. It is short, fast, quiet and I have developed a confidence with it that I don't want to mess with. I started useing Goldtip XT hunter carbon arrows over five yrs. ago and still have some of those arrows. They are amazingly durable and stay straight and consistant very well. I have a couple of those first ones that have been thru a number of deer and are ready for this season too. I use the Muzzy 100gr. and have no interest in changing. They shoot the same as my field points and bust bone with ease. My prefered shot is quarting away aiming for the oppoisite shoulder with intent of breaking that shoulder bone. When I do that I rarely track more than 30yds. Ofcourse there are always those exceptions. Unless I just change for the sake of change you will keep seeing Goldtips and muzzy's hanging on my Hoyt.
Shooting ground pigs at 80+ yds Is not so hard. You should go get you one. It's a mighty good feeling.