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help me for geting rust of my rifel

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Dolphin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dolphin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/20/2008 at 14:42
Good idea.  I usually wax the metal of my rifles also, when I am waxing the wood for the same reason.  I am told that in the North, the ice that collects on the rifles just comes off with a shake and bump.
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Bigdaddy0381 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bigdaddy0381 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/22/2008 at 16:50

This is the way I do all the guns I clean being mine or a customers.

I take ever part off the gun the can come off. I take the trigger assembaly apart. I let the parts soak in mineral spirits for about 10 to 30 minutes and the clean the with a brush very thuroly. Then I take and blow them dry with air. Then take all the parts and polish them with a 6 inch soft polisher. Then I take all the parts and oil them very heavly with a teflon based oil. Tehn I take and blow all the extra thats left off with the air and then wipe off all untill i have a light coat on all parts. Then put the rifle/pistol ect back to working condetion. I like teflon based over a silaca based oil as it dosen't hold grime and or get gummy if sitting in a closet or safe for any length of time not being used or let water get under it to start rusting. I took 2 old 22LR barrels and sanded them down to bare metal and then put a teflon based oil on one and a silica based on the other the silica based rusted in 2 weeks and the teflon rusted in 8 weeks. I would let them sit in water for a 12 hour period and then take them out for 48 hours and then repeat. I got board but it was an elighting test.
 
 
 
 
PM me and we can work something out on getting it done for you. I also have referances if need be.
 
 
P&Z Firearms , Pro gun cleanings and gun repair and wood refinishing.

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sakomato View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sakomato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/22/2008 at 19:16
The best way to take off rust and not blueing is to use your fingernail and Break Free CLP.  Put a spot of break free on the rust spot or pit and rub it in with your fingernail.  Your fingernail will not take the blueing off but will scrape off the rust layer by layer.  The Break Free will soak in and slow down reoccurrence and your blueing will remain.
 
Lot of work though! 
Guns only have 2 enemies, rust and politicians
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meat head View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote meat head Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/08/2008 at 19:14
well im back fellows did any body miss me?Howdy  anyway, bigdaddy what kind of brush is a thuroly?
thank you guys for all the good advise it is very helpful i have seen the brake free before sakomato i believe i will try it a friend of mine said to soak the metal in the oil and then use a large pencil eraser to rub some of the rust of the metal i have not tried this yet what do you guy's think of this?  i will also try the wax on the metal to prevent rust but i need too remove the rust first before i can prevent more rust
I mite take my rifle to a friend of mine's machine shop where he can blast all the blueing an rust of the rifle and i can have it refinished again this time do a better job of keeping the rust of
dolphin ive never heard of wd40 removing the blueing before but i believe i will stop using wd40 now that you said that you guy's are so smart im thankful i have such a good place like this too go too so i can get such good advise
you mite notice my spelling is better than it was thats because my girl friend has been teaching me how two us a spell checker now my only problem is picking the write word from the choices the spell checker gives me from the list of words i hope my posts are easier to read now an i hope i dont sound quite so stupidBucky im just not an educated man an i did not realize how many words i miss spell but i think you all for being so helpful and friendly to me an not judging me far being such a dumb old red neck hill billy Bandito
thank you guy's very much again you are so smart an helpful and im grateful to have such good friends even if i dont no any of you an have never meet you before but you are the best!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Excellent
 
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Ed Connelly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed Connelly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2008 at 18:28
Originally posted by Dolphin Dolphin wrote:

Good idea.  I usually wax the metal of my rifles also, when I am waxing the wood for the same reason.  I am told that in the North, the ice that collects on the rifles just comes off with a shake and bump.
 
After my rifles are all cleaned up and ready to be put away, I rub some Renaissance Wax all over everything---wood, metal, scope exterior, etc.  It  may not appeal to you "low sheen--camouflage-type"  guys,  but I like it. It gives the rifle a protective film as well as a custom rifle shine.  You can get Renaissance Wax lots of places---I got my little can from Brownells.
If it's good enough for the British Museum in London ( they use it on all their exhibits), it's good enough for my Winchester! Wink  ...and Brownell's says it's the best!         --Ed   
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RifleDude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RifleDude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2008 at 19:08
Originally posted by Ed Connelly Ed Connelly wrote:

After my rifles are all cleaned up and ready to be put away, I rub some Renaissance Wax all over everything---wood, metal, scope exterior, etc.  It  may not appeal to you "low sheen--camouflage-type"  guys,  but I like it. It gives the rifle a protective film as well as a custom rifle shine.  You can get Renaissance Wax lots of places---I got my little can from Brownells.
If it's good enough for the British Museum in London ( they use it on all their exhibits), it's good enough for my Winchester! Wink  ...and Brownell's says it's the best!         --Ed   
 
Ed, I use the Renaissance wax as well, and I've been very pleased with it!  I've only used it on stocks though; I haven't tried using it on the steel.  I too bought mine from Brownells.
Ted


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phillychavez View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phillychavez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/12/2008 at 14:04
Go to an auto paint store and get a small can of "metal prep", use it and a rag and if that doesn't work use metal prep and steel wool.  Rinse well with water and re-oil.
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RONK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RONK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/12/2008 at 17:39
I seem to recall that Finn Aagard was a big proponent of applying paste wax on his rifles before an extended Alaskan hunt.  He disassembled them and applied it to all the metal, inside and out, with very good results at keeping things rust-free.  I don't know which type or brand he preferred.

Edited by RONK - April/12/2008 at 17:40
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varmintcaller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote varmintcaller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/17/2008 at 19:47
I remove rust from firearms with a product called Blue Wonder. It comes in a tube and you just apply it to the rusted area and scrub with a copper or brass brush. After the de rusting, i then apply wax to the external metal parts of the rifle....simple and easy.
Moon Labe
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