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gloss or matte

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/26/2007 at 11:02
Dolphin View Drop Down
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I am almost finished putting together my semi custom rifle. started off with a parker hale action in a .243 and glass bedded into a claro AAA walnut stock from Richards microfit stocks. I did a 300 winmag in much lesser grade of wood in a matte finish, I think it looks ok, others thinks it looks great. I am a sucker for a gloss stock and with this grade of wood, think it would look great. I use truoil for my gloss finishes which is simple and looks great. polyurethane will yellow with exposure to sunlight, that is excessive exposure. what do you guys think.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/26/2007 at 12:14
lucznik View Drop Down
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Is this a gun primarily for hunting or just for target shooting?

 

 

I do not like gloss-anything in hunting gear. The glint of the sun off a shiny barrel, scope, stock, or whatever can be seen for incredibly long distances.  If I'm going to hunt with something it must have a matte surface at minimum.  I go to greater lengths to dull down my primary (big-game) hunting gear.

 

If this is a gun that is mostly to be shot either at the range or for more casual hunting chores, any finish that looks good to you (and encourages gawking and conversation from others) is what you should have.



Edited by lucznik
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/26/2007 at 12:51
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I agree with lucznik;  my hunting guns are matte with black synthetic stocks & matte scopes;  I love the truoil finish...have used it on lots of handgun grips.  With that stock, how could you not go with gloss.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/26/2007 at 17:19
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Originally posted by Dolphin Dolphin wrote:

I am almost finished putting together my semi custom rifle. started off with a parker hale action in a .243 and glass bedded into a claro AAA walnut stock from Richards microfit stocks. I did a 300 winmag in much lesser grade of wood in a matte finish, I think it looks ok, others thinks it looks great. I am a sucker for a gloss stock and with this grade of wood, think it would look great. I use truoil for my gloss finishes which is simple and looks great. polyurethane will yellow with exposure to sunlight, that is excessive exposure. what do you guys think.

 

I'm also prefer a matte, oil type finished gunstock over a high gloss stock.  Gloss finishes show scratches more readily and scratches, dents, and other blemishes are much more difficult to repair in a gloss finish than with an "in the wood" type matte finish.  But, to each his own.  For a built-up gloss finish, I recommend using Chem-Pak Custom Oil Gunstock Finish.  It is in an aerosol spray can.  It is an oil-modified polyurethane, which will not discolor from UV.  It resists sags when spraying, builds up pretty rapidly, and gives a very tough finish.  You can get it from Brownells (www.brownells.com, 800-741-0015) and it is product code #209-101-014.  It cures to a satin finish, but after your final coat, rub with 0000 steel wool then buff with "Five F" rubbing compound, which will bring it to a very high gloss without removing much if any material.  Use a felt pad for the rubbing compound.  All the above is also available from Brownells.  You will want to fill the pores of the wood first with a sealer.  I recommend Laurel Mountain Permalyn gunstock sealer, product # 519-301-004 because it is also an oil modified polyurethane, except in a super thin formulation that really penetrates and fills the wood.  It will also be compatible with the Chem-Pak top coat. 

 

Actually, most gloss stocks are either finished in polyurethane some sort of 2-part epoxy/varnish or lacquer, and I haven't seen problems with yellowing.  Epoxy will eventually chalk with exposure to sunlight.  If you REALLY want a tough, super clear finish, bring the finished, sealed stock to an auto body shop and have them spray it with Imron or PPG automotive clearcoat.  Then buff to final gloss as above.

 

Good luck with your project!

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/26/2007 at 17:23
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I prefer matte stocks, gloss stocks due not grip as well and do not provide the hold I like sometimes.

I have shot some well checkered gloss stocks though and have liked those,the checkering was deep

and double diamond. I do prefer high high luster gloss chrome moly actions and barrels for hunting.

They wear very well IMO compared to alot of matte finishes.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/26/2007 at 17:46
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Originally posted by RifleDude RifleDude wrote:

Originally posted by Dolphin Dolphin wrote:

I am almost finished putting together my semi custom rifle. started off with a parker hale action in a .243 and glass bedded into a claro AAA walnut stock from Richards microfit stocks. I did a 300 winmag in much lesser grade of wood in a matte finish, I think it looks ok, others thinks it looks great. I am a sucker for a gloss stock and with this grade of wood, think it would look great. I use truoil for my gloss finishes which is simple and looks great. polyurethane will yellow with exposure to sunlight, that is excessive exposure. what do you guys think.

 

I'm also prefer a matte, oil type finished gunstock over a high gloss stock.  Gloss finishes show scratches more readily and scratches, dents, and other blemishes are much more difficult to repair in a gloss finish than with an "in the wood" type matte finish.  But, to each his own.  For a built-up gloss finish, I recommend using Chem-Pak Custom Oil Gunstock Finish.  It is in an aerosol spray can.  It is an oil-modified polyurethane, which will not discolor from UV.  It resists sags when spraying, builds up pretty rapidly, and gives a very tough finish.  You can get it from Brownells (www.brownells.com, 800-741-0015) and it is product code #209-101-014.  It cures to a satin finish, but after your final coat, rub with 0000 steel wool then buff with "Five F" rubbing compound, which will bring it to a very high gloss without removing much if any material.  Use a felt pad for the rubbing compound.  All the above is also available from Brownells.  You will want to fill the pores of the wood first with a sealer.  I recommend Laurel Mountain Permalyn gunstock sealer, product # 519-301-004 because it is also an oil modified polyurethane, except in a super thin formulation that really penetrates and fills the wood.  It will also be compatible with the Chem-Pak top coat. 

 

Actually, most gloss stocks are either finished in polyurethane some sort of 2-part epoxy/varnish or lacquer, and I haven't seen problems with yellowing.  Epoxy will eventually chalk with exposure to sunlight.  If you REALLY want a tough, super clear finish, bring the finished, sealed stock to an auto body shop and have them spray it with Imron or PPG automotive clearcoat.  Then buff to final gloss as above.

 

Good luck with your project!

The rifle will be used primarily for hunting, as I do little target shooting.  But, again remember we shoot out of camoflauged tree stands and shiny stocks are not a problem and hunting them, I think of them as a tool, but do try to take care of them.  I think that is why I do not like the first rifle, is that I did not fill the pores.  My brother who does alot of furtniture finishing has mentioned the later spray on product and actually has a similar product that he has set up in his work shop with a professional spray gun set up.  On other refinishing projects, such as a brand new sxs Baikal shotgun I bought brand new, I took it from matte to gloss and typically finish with a rubbing compount an the very fine steel wool or simply a scouring pad.  But, after multiple jobs, I found that my finished product, at least using truoil, was better without doing that step.  This is something I am going to have to contemplate.  The other rifle with the lesser grade of wood, definately needed to have the pores filled, as that is the exact reason I am not happy with it.  Others seem to love it, I really do not know why.  With the quality of wood on this stock, I am not sure it will need a filler, but I will take your advice and be ready and go ahead and order some of the filler.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/26/2007 at 17:53
Dolphin View Drop Down
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Originally posted by lucznik lucznik wrote:

Is this a gun primarily for hunting or just for target shooting?

 

 

I do not like gloss-anything in hunting gear. The glint of the sun off a shiny barrel, scope, stock, or whatever can be seen for incredibly long distances.  If I'm going to hunt with something it must have a matte surface at minimum.  I go to greater lengths to dull down my primary (big-game) hunting gear.

 

If this is a gun that is mostly to be shot either at the range or for more casual hunting chores, any finish that looks good to you (and encourages gawking and conversation from others) is what you should have.

It will be for hunting.  Read the response above as far as hunting.  For some reason, gloss stocks have always appealed to me.  I really do not show my guns to anyone, so it is for the pleasure of my own eyes.  I think it stems from the days when I was a kid, looking at the magazines and the pics of the Wby. rifles and always saying, when I get big, I want one.  But, then again, I would say, that most of my rifles are either matte or synthetic.  I have one Wby. Mark V Euromark 7mm STW in a matte finish, as all of the Euromarks (reportedly handled by Roy himself, never fired when I received it, was purchased from a seller for a Wby. collector who had passed away) and it is a gourgeous rifle.  So, I do not know.  I could go either way.  Still thinking gloss.  Thanks for the reply. 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/26/2007 at 22:25
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Hey Dolphin, how much work do you need to do to that "MICROFIT". Not starting anything, but ive heard they can be allittle rough inside.?? are the action screws with pillars.??

 

 30

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2007 at 18:48
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Actually to inlet the rifles were not much of a problem.  The stock was more work than I expected.  They required more work sanding than I expected.  The present project is 2 years in the making and if I remember correctly, the Parker Hale has side set action screws and I cannot recall off hand how they related to the bedding.  Both rifles were bedded at least 2 years ago and with my 80 to 100 hour work weeks, I honestly cannot remember how they fell into place.  In fact, I am trying to remember whether they were Interarms Mark X actions, but I am almost sure, in fact I am sure they were Parker Hales.  I bought the last one from a famous gunsmith in New England.  Just after I purchased it on gunbroker or auctionarms, it was brand new with a real basic stock, he emailed me and said that he had checked the headspace and it was off.  He gave me the choice to cancel the deal or for him to correct the headspace for no extra cost and I choose the later.  He was in the reserves and got sent off to Iraq.  He has a website and was very well know for highly collectible rifles and highend work.  I will have to search around for his site.  I hope he came back and all is well.  In fact, my brother has the rifle at hand, as I wanted to see if he could give it a try with his new equipment.  That is another reason for the long delay.  In fact, I think I will call him tonight, as I told him, if he doesn't get on the stick, I will stick with my old methods.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/31/2007 at 13:47
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Hey, Dolphin, how you coming along on that stock?  I forgot to mention, the Chem Pak Custom Oil spray-on finish I described above is also available in a gloss version, so you'd have less buffing afterward.  It really is a superb and easy to apply finish.
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