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glass bedding price?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/21/2008 at 09:32
anweis View Drop Down
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What should i expect to pay for glass bedding a rifle?  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/21/2008 at 10:50
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Have You Driven A Ford Lately?

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It costs around $100 at Williams Gun Sight in SE MI.



Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/21/2008 at 11:35
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Like anything else it is going to be dependent upon how many decent gunsmiths are in that area. The more that offer that service the less expensive (to an extent) the work that can be had.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/21/2008 at 17:32
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Wood stocked or synthetic???
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/22/2008 at 06:37
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Wood stock, light barrel. I had to decide whether to free float the barell or to fully bed it.
I found a smith who will do a good pillar bedding for $160. I suppose that is about the right price. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/22/2008 at 17:04
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$160 is a fairly reasonable charge for a pillar bedding job, provided the person doing the work knows how to do a proper, stress-free pillar bed.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/24/2008 at 06:42
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The smith and is the only one within my driving distance, but he smokes like a chimney.
I am afraid that he will stink up my rifle and case. What do you think?
Maybe i should mail it somewhere?
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/24/2008 at 08:02
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$140.00. This is for a  pillar bedding job.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/24/2008 at 09:17
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Originally posted by anweis anweis wrote:

The smith and is the only one within my driving distance, but he smokes like a chimney.
I am afraid that he will stink up my rifle and case. What do you think?
Maybe i should mail it somewhere?
 
 I know how you feel, one item from that enviroment can be a stink bomb in the house.
But!
If you trust his work then pick up a cheap gun sock and when he is done trash the sock. Then give the gun a take down clean and you should be good to go. Good Luck!


Edited by Sgt. D - September/24/2008 at 09:19
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/24/2008 at 19:40
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Or you could just do it yourself for around $30 - $40.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/24/2008 at 22:53
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Originally posted by lucznik lucznik wrote:

Or you could just do it yourself for around $30 - $40.

 
I'm with lucznik.  I bed the recoil lug and chamber area on my own guns and free float the barrel.
 
I'll post some pics but you guys have to promise not to badmouth my shadetree mechanic results.
 
I usually use the green box Acraglas and use Birchwood Casey gun stock wax as a release agent
 
This was a rebarrel to 338RUM  in an HS Precision stock.  The first thing is to remove the old bedding
 
then take the new barrel and see where it is hitting in the stock, you can see that the first place it is hitting is just forward of the chamber area
 
I found the best way to remove stock material, whether wood or synthetic, is with a Dremel tool and a coarse  sanding wheel
 
it will make some dust so cover your bench with an old sheet.  Keep putting the stock in and taking off material, including down in the recoil lug recess, until the barrel and action are only hitting behind the recoil lug and rearward
 
go slow and pay special attention to getting an even gap around the barrel
 
It is necessary to create a small gap on the front surface of the recoil lug in order to facilitate easier removal and reinsertion.  I use 2 layers of masking tape
 
coat all surface that may come into contact with the bedding compound that you do not want it to stick to with the release agent, even the action screw and top edges and sides of the stock
 
Then mix the bedding compound.  I usually mix too much but that is better than not having enough.  This time I decided to use MarineTex since I had heard that it worked well.  I put 2 packets of black dye in it (all that I had) but it still only turned it a light grey.  Put the estimated amount in front of the recoil lug area and fill up the recoil lug recess about 1/2 full
 
Insert the stock and tighten the action screws and let sit 24 hours.  Even after doing a dozen of these it is always a relief when the barrel and stock separate the next day.  If you turn the rifle upside down and stick the plastic end of a screwdriver down through the mag well to the bolt and give it a good rap it will separate (if you got enough release agent spread around and didn't miss any areas Big%20Grin). 
 
 
 
This action was pillar bedded so I torque the action screw down to 60#'s and I'm good to go.
 
Next time I'm going back to Acraglas though, it is easier to work with than MarineTex.
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