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Glass Bedding 700 SPS in a B&C Stock

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/30/2013 at 15:40
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I've never glass bedded a stock and need some help:

Which glass bedding product do you like?
Preferred release compound ?
Do I torque the action screws to normal specs, snug or ?
Do I bed entire action ?

I bought modeling clay to build my dam and to keep bedding material out of unwanted areas.
I also have blue painters tape to tape off the stock?

Any other helpful tricks, tips, etc would be appreciated

Eagle
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/30/2013 at 16:24
cheaptrick View Drop Down
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Which B&C model do you have? 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/30/2013 at 16:38
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Tactical Medalist Style 4 Series 1000

It has the full alum pillar bedding.

Eagle
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/30/2013 at 16:41
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Originally posted by EAGLE EAGLE wrote:

I've never glass bedded a stock and need some help:

Which glass bedding product do you like?
Preferred release compound ?
Do I torque the action screws to normal specs, snug or ?
Do I bed entire action ?

I bought modeling clay to build my dam and to keep bedding material out of unwanted areas.
I also have blue painters tape to tape off the stock?

Any other helpful tricks, tips, etc would be appreciated

Eagle

Devcon 10110

Neutral shoe polish Kiwi

Snug, but I use pillars.

That depends....If the stock has an aluminum bedding block, I'd probably bed the recoil lug area as a minimum and skim bed the action as well. You'll probably not get a great deal of bedding on the area directly behind the recoil lug or the tang end.  
If your stock doesn't have an aluminum bedding block, I'd highly recommend pillar bedding. 

The above suggestions assume you are working on a hunting/tactical set up and not a bench gun. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/30/2013 at 16:51
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Oh....I use Silly Putty to dam up the holes.  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/30/2013 at 18:09
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Does it matter which screws I tighten first?

Anything I should be aware of using Devcon 10110 (clean up, don't i.e.)?



Eagle

Edited by EAGLE - June/30/2013 at 18:24
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/30/2013 at 21:36
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/01/2013 at 04:41
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Originally posted by EAGLE EAGLE wrote:

Does it matter which screws I tighten first?

Anything I should be aware of using Devcon 10110 (clean up, don't i.e.)?



Eagle


Devcon is pretty user friendly. I recommend mixing the 2 components by weight, instead of by "eye". 
I use surgical type gloves when handling the stuff. 

I apply the shoe wax liberally and go over everything twice, if not 3 times to ensure that everything releases properly. Make sure to apply release to action screws  too.     
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/01/2013 at 08:58
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Originally posted by JGRaider JGRaider wrote:

See if this will help some:

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/3003214/DIY_bedding_M77_pic_heavy#Post3003214

Good read, but I would use the Devcon and not the Brownells product. I used the Acra Glass on my first bedding job and liked the Devcon better for a fiberglass stock. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/01/2013 at 09:13
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I like Marine Tex in a fiberglass stock
I grew up In the boating industry and that stuff bonds to fiberglass.

It also what Manners uses and recommends for their stocks.
I did my MCST with it.

My Nosler came in a Medalist stock with the aluminum bedding blocks.
It shoots one hole groups so I don't see the point in bedding it.

As for which action screw to tighten up I have always done the rear first.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/01/2013 at 11:13
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For years, I've been a devout Brownell's Acraglas Gel user. I've bedded no telling how many rifles with the stuff, always with great results. It's much easier to use than regular Acraglas because it has a 1:1 resin - hardener mix ratio. It's thick enough that it stays put without running everywhere, and it has stains available so you can color the epoxy various shades of brown, gray, or black to closely match the stock. I usually mixed it with some powdered stainless steel for extra strength, though doing so affects your ability to get a good stain color somewhat, unless you're going for gray.

I've also used the Acraglas Steel Bed formulation, also with great results, however, the stuff is expensive, and since I have an ample supply of powdered stainless steel, it's cheaper for me to add the powdered SS to my bedding epoxy to get the exact same results.

HOWEVER, I've recently switched to Score High Gunsmithing's "Pro Bed 2000," simply because a couple gents whose opinions I respect told me they thought it was superior to Acraglas Gel. Supposedly, according to them, it shrinks less and is stronger. I don't know whether that's true or not, but I can report that it also has a 1:1 mix ratio, and it has similar qualities as Acraglas gel. If anything, it seems to me to be even thicker after mixing, so it definitely doesn't tend to run into places you don't want it to. I'm totally satisfied with it so far, though I don't know if it's really any better than Acraglas Gel or not, since I haven't had any failures from either so far.

Some people like Devcon, others like Marine Tex or JB Weld. I've used all of those on various projects, but not as rifle bedding...but I have no doubt they work well. Since I've seen no faults with either Acraglas Gel or Pro Bed 2000, I trust both 100%, and since I like their working qualities, I see no compelling reason to switch to something else at this time.

Basically, any high strength industrial-grade 2 part epoxy will undoubtedly work. I stick with those mentioned above because they are proven.

As for release agents, it really doesn't matter what you use as long as whatever you're using is proven to reliably separate steel from cured epoxy. I use Brownells Acra-Release spray simply because it's in a convenient spray can, it's quick to apply, and it works. I don't believe it works any better than paste wax or the release agents that come with the bedding kits; I just prefer doing things the easy way whenever possible, and the Acra-Release spray is as foolproof as it gets. I've used paste wax and the release agents that come in the Acraglas and Pro Bed kits. I've even used Pam cooking spray. All worked just fine. I just happen to think the Acra-Release spray is faster, easier, and helps me ensure I get a more even, thorough coating of release agent on the metal. Plus, a single can of the stuff will do a bunch of guns. I'm probably on the 10th or 12th rifle action on the same can.

On action screws, I always tighten the front first, as it's the one adjacent to the recoil lug, it has the most bedding surface area surrounding it, and that area takes the majority of the recoil loads. I use my calibrated hand on the long leg of the allen key and torque until I get some flexing on the long leg of the allen key. For exact torque, use about 60 in/lb or so on the front screw. The rear doesn't have to be as tight as the front; maybe 50 in/lb or thereabouts. If you have a 3rd action screw in front of the trigger guard, just tighten that one until it's sorta snug. Don't over-tighten the 3rd screw, as it puts a bending moment in the center of the action that can negatively impact accuracy.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/02/2013 at 17:12
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I went with the "Pro Bed 2000," and I'll post up some pics when I get done.

Thank All!

Eagle
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/02/2013 at 17:19
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Originally posted by EAGLE EAGLE wrote:

I went with the "Pro Bed 2000," and I'll post up some pics when I get done.

Thank All!

Eagle

Excellent. 

Doing your first one answers a lot of question for you. I like the blue tape you mentioned and have used it successfully and Silly Putty is a good trick I learned from a guy to dam up the holes. Clean up is way easier.     
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/02/2013 at 17:35
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I'm going to use a non-harding modeling clay.

I've bedded several picatinny rails with JB weld so I have some bedding experience.

I will take my time with the prep work and fit test everything before actual bedding.

Eagle
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/02/2013 at 17:54
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Roger that. Good luck. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/02/2013 at 22:14
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Good luck, Eagle! Sounds like you have a good game plan. As Cheaptrick said, doing a couple bedding jobs answers a lot of questions. Experience is the best teacher. Remember that proper prep is the most important element of a good bedding job.

BTW, I too use the blue tape and modeling clay.
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