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When Tikka rings go bad? |
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PappaBear
Optics Apprentice Joined: April/20/2007 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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Posted: May/05/2007 at 14:53 |
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I have a 22-250 T3 lite stainless synthetic. I ordered a scope and have been thinking about the rings.. My question is, if the rings did come loose, when you tighten them, do you have to re-zero the scope? People that had problems, was the problem an issue of coming loose? Or something else?
Also, the rings are silver, and the scope I ordred is matte black, so I may change them anyway?? Still, I am interested in knowing. |
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Rancid Coolaid
MODERATOR Joined: January/19/2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9318 |
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If the screws become loose, you definitively want to make certain the scope is still on target before using in the real world. As I just told another guy, being a Tikka fan and owner myself, I would recommend not using the standard rings but upgrading to something steel and better quality. I use Warne rings and really like them. Others here recommend the Leopold rings (and if SWFA sells those, I would buy them.) I have the same rifle in 300WM but mine is camo stock and with a brake; great gun, very accurate. Hope that helps.
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PappaBear
Optics Apprentice Joined: April/20/2007 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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thanks Rancid, i will definitly upgrade. I just do not want to have that worry in the back of my mind.
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Jsimoneaud
Optics Apprentice Joined: January/08/2007 Location: South Louisiana Status: Offline Points: 168 |
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I just purchased a Tikka T3 Hunter in 270WSM, I am about to order some Talleys to replace the rings that come with the rifle. I also purchased a Sigthron SII 3.5-10X50 for this gun.
I installed a Nikon Buckmaster on a Tikka lite 270win last weekend for a friend, we used the rings that came with the Tikka. I used my Wheeler Torque wrench set 25 inch lbs for the base screws and one of the base screws kinda got a screwed up head while I was making sure it was still tight after a range session. my thoughts are that the screws are SOFT. |
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J Simoneaud
IT Security Supervisor State of Louisiana |
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Rancid Coolaid
MODERATOR Joined: January/19/2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9318 |
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Soft, yea, a little.
And yea, my friend ain't the best with an Allen wrench - but that is the stainless pin you see ripping through the back of the Tikka stanard freeby ring.
Upgrade - or risk something going really wrong when you least want it to. |
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Freedom is something you take.
Respect is something you earn. Equality is something you whine about not being given. |
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cheaptrick
MODERATOR Joined: September/27/2004 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 20844 |
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Dynamometer
Optics GrassHopper Joined: January/12/2009 Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Howdy. I've been using the Tikka Al rings with success. The base clamp bolts are 2.5mm hex, right? If not 2.5mm, close. 25 in.*lbs. with a 2.5 hex driver is a lot, I think. Maybe Tikka intends for cheap, replaceable bolts to fail (and have their drive holes rounded out) during installation before the less-cheap, less-replaceable aluminum bases' threads are stripped. In any case, I installed mine with doubt that the drive holes would hold up to the torque I had always dreamed of. Without getting too close, a bolt rounded out. I extracted it and replaced it with a much harder steel bolt with a 4mm drive hole. Now the bases are clamped to the steel receiver so tightly that the aluminum interface is a bit deformed. Unsurprisingly, it stays put. In fact, I positioned the front base rearward in the recoil-lug hole - there should have been ~1mm of forward travel of the whole deal before the recoil lug, uh, was the deal-braker. But the whole deal has never moved. On either a .338 Win Mag or a .308. Also, both have heavy scopes. So, I'm a data point supporting the quality of the cheap, aluminum Tikka rings. They are perfectly functional for me. But I echo one criticism: those bolts are silly. And have one of my own: why put the recoil lug so close to an edge of a soft Al base? You need more Al to keep that little steel pin in place, if your bolts loosen up or weren't tight enough in the first place. If you need a good source for good metric-threaded hex bolts, look at bicycles. You'll also find an assortment of Torx-drive stuff there. Like Torx or hate it, it's the best design if you want high-torque application without deforming drive interface. Happy shooting, y'all. |
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Dynamometer
Optics GrassHopper Joined: January/12/2009 Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Also, I have this opinion and I'm curious what y'all think: If your scope base to receiver interface requires a recoil stop in the form of a hole in the receiver or something, then it is not a good enough design. Right? If it's a little steel pin which is keeping your scope from walking forward, then there has to be quite a bit of flex in the base setup, and if it flexes and vibrates every time you shoot, that can't be great. Re: my last post - I suppose you can mount the Tikka rings like you're supposed to (with the rail-clamp bolts on the LH side of the gun) and avoid the not-enough-Al-for-the-recoil-pin problem. I think it's ugly to cover up the breech, personally. And if you've got a clamp-to-receiver design which doesn't move, then, like I was saying, who needs a recoil hole? Just thinking, and just curious. |
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koshkin
MODERATOR Dark Lord of Optics Joined: June/15/2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13182 |
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I use Warne rings on my Tikka and I am very happy with them. No problems at all.
ILya |
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Horsemany
Optics Journeyman Joined: February/28/2008 Location: Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 643 |
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I wonder how many problems with factory rings stem from the installer not being smart enough to push the ring ALL the way forward so recoil doesn't slam the pin with the first shot. I agree these are not the best quality rings but they do work most of the time. I shoot hunter class benchrest and most folks at my club are using T3's for that game. I think almost every one of us use the factory rings without a hiccup. In fact in 05' a buddy of mine shot a 9" group @ 1000yds in Pella IA using factory rings on a T3 in 7mm-08.
My biggest gripe with Tikka rings is they put the filler screws in a location that it would be easy to push the ring forward thinking you are contacting the front of the recoil lug recess when really you have touched the filler screw head instead. I've seen them installed like this. That could certainly lead to the pin getting smashed through the ring whenever the ring jumps off the filler screw. Edited by Horsemany - January/12/2009 at 12:32 |
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huff143
Optics Journeyman Joined: December/08/2008 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 304 |
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Koshkin,
Which Warne setup do you use on your Tikka?
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koshkin
MODERATOR Dark Lord of Optics Joined: June/15/2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13182 |
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I have two scopes that are set-up for the Tikka (M695 in 280Rem). Both use Warne medium "permanent attachment" grooved receiver ring: Kahles CL 2-7x36 in 1" rings and IOR 6x42 in 30mm rings. When I originally bought them the quick-detachable versions did not exist yet, or I might have bought those.
ILya |
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Rancid Coolaid
MODERATOR Joined: January/19/2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9318 |
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Since my first post on this thread, I have purchased Talley rings and really like those too. Warnes are a bit more difficult to mount, since they are vertical rings (split on the vertical, not the horizontal) but they are tough and hold up to abuse.
Between Talley and Warne, Talleys are lighter weight, Warnes are probably stronger, neither have had any problems at all. |
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huff143
Optics Journeyman Joined: December/08/2008 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 304 |
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Are there pro's and con's with the mounts that fit in grooved receivers vs. ones that mount on top, like RC's?
My Tikka is the first rifle I've owned that had a grooved receiver.
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280shooter
Optics GrassHopper Joined: January/11/2009 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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i have a tikka 3lite in stainless..the mounts and rings work for me, not a problem,I think people mess them up then complane that they're junk,maybe in to much of a hurry,and dint read the book on how to install the right way,
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huff143
Optics Journeyman Joined: December/08/2008 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 304 |
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I haven't had problems with mine either. But since I'll be mounting a new scope (no reason other than just wanna) on it, I figured I'd upgrade the mounts as well.
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Rancid Coolaid
MODERATOR Joined: January/19/2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9318 |
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Only 2 ways to learn: experience and instruction. When the voice of experience speaks, and you assume everyone is incompetent but you, go for it, no problems here. I've known a few with 7mm-08 or 25-06 or .223 that have no problems with factory rings. If you shoot something with recoil, you'll want to get others. It's just an opinion, but I've mounted several scopes on several Tikkas and the experience holds very true. Edited by Rancid Coolaid - January/13/2009 at 20:57 |
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Freedom is something you take.
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Horsemany
Optics Journeyman Joined: February/28/2008 Location: Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 643 |
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This mirrors my experience as well as others I shoot with.
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Chris Farris II
TEAM SWFA - Admin MODERATOR Joined: August/13/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3196 |
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One day your life will flash before your eyes; Make sure it's worth watching.
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Chris Farris II
TEAM SWFA - Admin MODERATOR Joined: August/13/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3196 |
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This was posted by a Member of the forum named REMF in a total different area of the forum which the topic of the Tikka ring quality was not even being discussed.
Oh, one more piece of info on the Tikka...
It sounds great that rings are included when you purchase the gun. Do yourself a favor. Immediately throw them in the trash and go buy a set of Talleys. The rings that come with the gun are horrible.
Again, my $0.02: Tikka is a GREAT rifle for the dough. The rings are garbage. |
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One day your life will flash before your eyes; Make sure it's worth watching.
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