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jackG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jackG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: sightron
    Posted: November/27/2006 at 19:03

I am shopping for a scope.  It's going to ride on a Tikka T3 Lite 270 wsm.  I'll use the rifle for open prairie shooting in MT.  That means mulies and white tails out to, well, you know, 200 yards and up.  The antelope will require perhaps 300 yards or a bit more.  I had intended to put a Leupold VX II on it.  And I'm leaning toward the 4.5 - 14 magnifiation. 

 

However, I've run across Sightron scopes.  They are being recommended by a lot of shooters. I haven't peered through or handled one.  I've begun looking at the available magnificaiton ranges, and perhaps 4.5 - 12 would be about right.  My question is, how does the Sightron SII, stack up against say the VX-I, and II?  How many have compared them, and what have you found?  Will they fit on the Tikka?  How good is the glass?  What about warrantly stuff, which I understand is stellar, for Leupold?  What are your overall impressions? 

 

I've been through the archives here and seen the 4200, the Monarch, and other compared as well as the Leupold.  Thanks.

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tahqua View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tahqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/27/2006 at 21:35

See Koshkins reply on this thread regarding Sightron SII,

http://opticstalk.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5006&PN=1

 I don't think a VI or II will be in the same league. The VXIII is a different story and price bracket, though. It is a high quality scope if you want a Leupold. It seems as though you have already read up on alternatives that are more cost effective than the Leupold.

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Dolphin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dolphin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/28/2006 at 19:00
Sightron all the way, as long as it is a SII or SIII.  They are generally more compact, therefore, check the dimensions first, as you may need extension bases. 
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jackG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jackG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/29/2006 at 07:22
The only scope I've ever mounted was on a .22.  So regarding the Sightron's compactness and potential fit problems, I'm lost as to what that means.  I'm sure scope and rifle will come with instructions, but more info is always better.  Can someone suggest (in 25 words or less) the general steps involved in installling a Sightron II, non A/O scope on a Tikka T3 Lite and where I might encounter problems? 
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Tip69 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tip69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/29/2006 at 07:28

jackG,

 

Take it to a gun shop and have a pro install it!  Should only cost you $5.... and its well worth it.

take em!
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jackG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jackG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/29/2006 at 10:02
Tip - an excellent suggestion.  Thanks.
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Dolphin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dolphin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/30/2006 at 17:42
I agree, if you do not have any experience mounting your own scopes.  As far as price, usually, as long as you buy the scope from that person, they will usually mount and boresight it for free.  However, where I leave, it is about 25 dollars to have someone mount and boresight your scope, if not purchased from them.  That includes the rifle, meaning, you did not buy it from them.  Now, if you have no experience or nobody you know who does, that is your only choice.  It is not difficult, but not as simple as it seems and even most gunsmiths or gunshop operators do it incorrectly, but not in a harmful manner to the scope or rifle.  With a short magnum, the Sightron scopes should fit fine.  With long magnums, the more compact scopes require extension bases.  PM me if you need any help on mounting a scope properly.
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cheaptrick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cheaptrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/30/2006 at 18:05

Do it yourself with help from us.......

Once you know how to do it, you won't have to be dependent on having someone around when you want to swap scopes out.

 

Or YOU can help someone at the range if they have a mounting problem. 

Or maybe you could help a young guy or gal mount a scopes up and take them shooting.

 

Feeling me?? 

 

It's a fairly easy process and will make you a better "rifleman" in the process.

 

Welcome to The OT!!

(And tough love.) 

If at first you don't secede...try..try again.
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jonbravado View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonbravado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/01/2006 at 09:26

i have heard it is taboo to 'loc-tite' the bases, is this true - i usually just put a drop or two on the ring screws.

 

any advice is appreciated, as i have 3 more guns i am about to setup -

 

thanks!!!

 

J

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Dolphin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dolphin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/01/2006 at 10:04
I have mounted so many scopes without any failures to include heavy Wby. magnum cartridges and have never used loc-tite ever.  The gunsmiths that have mounted about 2 of my scopes, did not use loc-tite either.  I really do not see the need and it makes it harder to remove a scope.  I purchased a used Parker Hale in a 7mmRemmag and the owner had used loc-tite on the bases.  I had to drill the screw heads out of the bases, remove the bases and was ables to unscrew the mount scews from the receiver with a pair of pliers.  Fortunately, he did not use, or I do not think he used loc-tite in the screw holes in the receiver.  I was then able to mount Warne bases and rings to mount a new scope.  That was a pain in the ass.  I think using them on the rings, could end up with stuck rings, resulting in the same problem, requiring the same solution and possible ruining the rings.  But, then again, I have never used loc-tite at all, let alone on the rings.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonbravado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/01/2006 at 11:23

Good deal - i will NOT use loc tite on these then - but he BIGGEST of the calibers is a .223, so recoil shouldn't be a problem.

 

thanks!!!

 

J

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Dolphin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dolphin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/01/2006 at 11:38
Originally posted by cheaptrick cheaptrick wrote:

Do it yourself with help from us.......

Once you know how to do it, you won't have to be dependent on having someone around when you want to swap scopes out.

 

Or YOU can help someone at the range if they have a mounting problem. 

Or maybe you could help a young guy or gal mount a scopes up and take them shooting.

 

Feeling me?? 

 

It's a fairly easy process and will make you a better "rifleman" in the process.

 

Welcome to The OT!!

(And tough love.) 

Cheaptrick is right, you do have to start somewhere, especially if you are going to start collecting rifles and shooting.  And like I said, gunsmiths rarely do it correctly, but not in a harmful manner.  One of the 2 guns I had a gunsmith do, only because I had just picked it up and went to buy some mounts and rings and figured while I was there, I would let him do it to save some time, so I could hit the range.  He had me sit down behind the rifle in this awkward position to check the scope position for proper eye relief and to make sure the reticle was properly set up and down.  That is not how you do it at all.  I am very precise and never eye ball my reticles and do not depend any of these for sale gadgets to level my reticles.  There are more precise and cheaper ways to do it.  Give it a try and if you have trouble, get back on the site and ask questions and if it still isn't working, then you can drop back and punt and go to a gunsmith.

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cheaptrick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cheaptrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/01/2006 at 15:08

I always use Loc Tite UNDER my picatinny rails.

This prevents water from wicking underneath the rail and can promote rust.

 

Not my idea.

I stole that from a little known ring manufacturer called Badger Ordanance.......

If at first you don't secede...try..try again.
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