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AR15 issue

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mil169 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mil169 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/06/2014 at 21:54
Finally got back to the problem upper tonight. The gas block set screw was perfectly lined up with the dimple and the gas tube was clear. Then I checked the gas port in the barrel. The port measured .104 using gauge pins, however, as Sgt. D suggested might be the case, the pin would not drop through the port and into the barrel. So after about 10 seconds wit the approriate drill, I removed the burr and the pin fit nicely all the way into the barrel. With that being said and the port being as big as it is, I would hope that now the gun will cycle as it should. I'll find out tomorrow.
 
As a side note. It seems the consenus is that rifle length systems can be finicky. Are mid length systems more forgiving as far as getting them to cycle reliably with a variety of ammo?
 
Thanks for all the suggestions.
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supertool73 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/06/2014 at 22:54
With 18" and 16" the mid length is better. 14.5 and less carbine. If you have a 20"+ the rifle seems fine as it has more time to push gas down the gas tube before it leaves the barrel. But that being said i had a 20" AR and it also had issues with some ammo. Personally i dont see the point in an AR with a barrel longer than 16" for most purposes. If it is for long range target shooting then i get it. But i shoot my 16" precision AR to 500 often and it works great. I built two 16" and one 18" with woa barrels several years back. The only thing the 18" did better was weighing more. :)

I have had 4 WOA barrels. All 4 of them had huge burs at the gas port. Kindof aggravating they dont even look down the barrels to check those things. My money goes else where now. There are other barrels just as good with out that issue. Sad to hear a Rainier barrel is like that.  I have two of them and did not have that issue.


Edited by supertool73 - July/07/2014 at 09:19
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mil169 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mil169 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2014 at 08:02
I got it to the range last night and it was not immediatly succsessful. It fired one round and then nothing, it did this with both Winchester and Federal 55 gr FMJ's and with Magpul and GI mags.
 
I put the upper on my lower, (same components and the one I just built), and it fired flawlessly for the rest of the mag. I put my upper on the problem lower, and it ran the first two shots fine, seemed to hiccup and was slow to close the bolt or something, but then fired fine and continued to function for the rest of the rounds.
 
I have no idea of what would be in a lower that would keep a rifle from cycling besides the buffer and spring. I thought those were dummy proof, but maybe not.
 
I put the new rifle back together and it shot fine for 75 rounds or so. I did have one light primer strike, but when reloaded it fired. I checked the hammer spring and it appears to be installed correctly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpwomack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2014 at 14:41
Check the inside of the problem buffer tube, make sure that it is smooth.  If you can, compare the buffer and spring from the "good" lower to the "problem" lower.  I would check length and weight, just to rule out issues.  You could also have some excess dragging on the hammer due to an out of spec lower or trigger components.  To check this, with the rifle assembles, pull the charging handle and pay attention to the amount of force used to cock the hammer, let the charging handle return and repeat.  There should be some resistance as the carrier drags on the hammer, but not much.  Try the above procedure again with the trigger pulled, this time there should be even less resistance as the disconnector will keep the hammer pulled further back.  If the resistance is equal to the first test you may have issues with the bolt carrier rubbing on the hammer and creating to much resistance.  Also check your hammer for excess wear. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SVT_Tactical Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2014 at 17:15
Check your springs in hammer and trigger. Make sure the are installed correctly. I've seen them in the wrong and would act the same as your describing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RifleDude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2014 at 17:41
Take the "problem" lower and manually cock the hammer with your thumb, then pull the trigger while applying some resistance to the hammer to prevent it from slamming against the receiver wall behind the mag well. Repeat several times. If it isn't binding, then you can probably rule out incorrectly assembled trigger group parts. Install the "problem" upper on another, proven lower. If all functions correctly on the new lower, then you can rule out anything on the upper assembly as the culprit.

If the bolt isn't even opening enough to begin extracting the case, and if you're able to manually cycle the bolt with no resistance, then that pretty much rules out a buffer assy issue.

It's possible your trigger pin hole positions could be out of spec (too high). This would raise the trigger assembly and cause the bolt carrier to bind on the face of the cocked hammer.
Ted


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RifleDude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2014 at 20:02
Originally posted by RifleDude RifleDude wrote:


It's possible your trigger pin hole positions could be out of spec (too high). This would raise the trigger assembly and cause the bolt carrier to bind on the face of the cocked hammer.


Then again, if that were the issue, you'd notice it when you manually cycled the bolt.
Ted


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mil169 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mil169 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2014 at 20:30
It'll be a few day's before I can look at it again. But thanks for the suggestions and tips, I'll look into it further.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeltFed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/09/2014 at 09:50
Get Your Popcorn Ready
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mil169 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mil169 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/14/2014 at 21:03
O.k boys, finally got back to the issue. I wish I had some definitve results for you,... but I don't.
 
The springs are installed correctly, checked, double checked and triple checked.
 
The hammer is not showing any unusual signs of wear.
 
The manual cocking seems to show that it is ever so slightly easier to pull the charging handle with the trigger pulled as to having to cock it.
 
The buffer tube looks good.
 
The gas rings slots were offset.
 
What I did find is , there seemed to be a little brass residue on the locking lugs on the bolt. The buffer tube spring is 1/4" shorter than what I'm running in the middy.
 
So I oiled everything up and put it back together. I guess it will just have to be shot more to determine some sort of pattern. That would make it easier to trouble shoot. Any suggestions on an ammo to run that would help the gun work better?


Edited by mil169 - July/14/2014 at 21:09
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Sgt. D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sgt. D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/15/2014 at 11:42
Any factory load in a brass case except Remington. I have had repeated issues with the quality and reliability of their ammo. Federal, Winchester, Armscor just to name some I use a lot.
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