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Scope base with MOA - do I need them?

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casio02478 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote casio02478 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Scope base with MOA - do I need them?
    Posted: May/22/2006 at 08:08
Hi, I have a question that I hope someone can help me with. What are the scope base with MOA build in and why do I need them? I have a savage 10 LE in 308. and planning to mount a nikon tactcial on it. The max range I want to use this combo is at 800m. Should I get a one with MOA build in? if so how much MOA build in? intersted in the scope base build by Ken Farrell. Any help is greatly appreciated - Thank you
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Dale Clifford View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dale Clifford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2006 at 09:04

the Nikon will probably have the adjustment built in

advantages to MOA bases- they point the front of the scope down, which allows more adjusment, AND they bring the center of the adjustment range toward the middle range of the adjustments (centering the reticle). which gives more optical clarity than using it on the edges. (if done correctly they use heavier duty screws)

disadvantages- they are always higher and usually require 1 level of lower rings ht than normal (if they are available). and they cost more. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote koshkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2006 at 12:24

>>>

advantages to MOA bases- they point the front of the scope down, which allows more adjusment, AND they bring the center of the adjustment range toward the middle range of the adjustments (centering the reticle). which gives more optical clarity than using it on the edges. (if done correctly they use heavier duty screws)

>>>

 

Are you sure that they point the scope down?  I may be wrong here, but it seems that the base would actually point the scope UP with respect to the rifle a bit, so that you would have to adjust it DOWN to get it on target at 100yards.  That way you have more available adjustment range for long distance shooting.

 

Also, how does this effect optical clarity?

 

ILya

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cheaptrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2006 at 13:32

With a Nikon Tactical, or Ni-Tac, (feel free to use that) , you will probably need a 20 MOA rail to shoot extended distances.

 

Your probably going to end up with around 25 MOA of elevation when it's all said and done.

 

Koshkin,

Yes the canted rail points down.....Bigger in the back than in the front.

 

I always go with a canted rail.

Better to have it and not need it, than it is to need it and not have it...Right? 

If at first you don't secede...try..try again.
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koshkin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote koshkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2006 at 13:51

Quote,

 

>>>

Koshkin,

Yes the canted rail points down.....Bigger in the back than in the front.

>>>

 

Nevermind, should have had my coffee before I posted that. 

It makes sense to me now.

 

ILya

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Dale Clifford View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dale Clifford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2006 at 17:31
The clarity parts comes in---because the height turret doesn't have to be turned all the way up, thus "mechanical center is at the scope and optical center" The reason why chris likes max. exit pupil scopes, (but if he was just a little taller).
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koshkin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote koshkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2006 at 18:01

I may be having a slow day today, but I still do not understand what this has to do with clarity, Dale.

 

ILya

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dale Clifford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2006 at 18:26

max. clarity from the eye's point of view not the physical aspect of the machine. Scopes give best results when the horizontal and vertical are centered ie. number of counts of clicks in the middle (doesn't work on some though they have dead clicks). some scopes designed as long range scopes, actually will be down 20 MOA when the adjustments are in the middle, and when dialed up actually come into the optical center of scope.

One bad thing about 20 moa and 1 inch tubes that don't do this, the center of the scope will be 20 moa down when centered "normally" thus on dial up on a long shot the the recticle center does not coincide with the optical center.

Another bad thing (personal mostly) is on a 20 moa rail the rear of the scope will be like using high ring mounts and usually requires a stock comb to bring the cheek weld up for the better sight picture. Thus why Mcmillian a5 stocks are so popular.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cheaptrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2006 at 18:40
Originally posted by Dale Clifford Dale Clifford wrote:

Another bad thing (personal mostly) is on a 20 moa rail the rear of the scope will be like using high ring mounts and usually requires a stock comb to bring the cheek weld up for the better sight picture. Thus why Mcmillian a5 stocks are so popular.

 

Never been a problem for me.

 

My 20 MOA rail w/ standard height rings and a Remington factory stock works great.

I wouldn't say it's like using high rings, medium maybe.

But, I would love any excuse to have to get a McMillian A5 stock...

If at first you don't secede...try..try again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charlie70 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2006 at 10:50
This has been a very informative thread for me. I have never used a 20 MOA base and thus didn't realize how they worked. Pretty simple and it makes sense. Thanks for the info guys.....
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