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I keep confusing myself |
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mj52
Optics GrassHopper Joined: October/19/2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Posted: October/19/2012 at 08:41 |
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Not going to confuse anybody else with my confusion.
So I'll list what I'm using and ask a question. Thank You ahead of time. Nikon Buckmaster 6-18 x 40 Mildot reticle with 1/8"/click dials. The scope works very well and for myself is a well made piece of equipment. I've twisted the dials often enough to say it tracks (??) very nicely. I can and have dialed in anything from 25 to 300 yards. I use hold over out to 600 only because I don't have free acess to the 600 range (in order to learn my dial in settings). My question, is it possible to walk onto a range put a shot on a target measure the distance of POA to POI and quickly dial that in? 12X is my ranging power. At 100 prove my zero using (8x). Hold over 1 mildot - fire 1 round - measure, dial in changes, hold over that same 1 mildot and fire a second round. always within 1 MOA. biggest problem is the mildot is bigger than the stick on bullseye I use. do the same thing 1 mildot under. These #s don't match but I think i understand why. In layman's terms aiming under is fighting uphill a bit more than aiming over. everytime I changed my power the dial in #s changed as well. If I use a different mildot the #s change. It's not like at 100 I'm 2" low at 6. Ok dial in 16 (1/8") clicks. 200 4" low 16 clicks again. Is there a system? A solution?Or was I taught an expensive lesson? Thanks, mj52
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ccoker
Optics Master Joined: February/13/2008 Location: Austin, TX Status: Offline Points: 2041 |
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well, with a 2nd focal plane scope like you have (assuming it is SFP) the mildot measurements only work at a given power setting (12x in your case from what you said)
That's the advantage of a FFP scope, the mil dot measurements are the same irregardless of magnification. |
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3_tens
Optics Jedi Master Joined: January/08/2007 Location: Oklahoma Status: Offline Points: 7853 |
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The scope you are using the reticle is in the second focal plane. It will only work at a predetermined magnification. to use the mil-dot at all power settings easily you need a reticle in the first focal plane. Calculating the drops in relation to the mil-dot at different magnifications is simple. The hard part will be setting the magnification ring exactly in the same spot to achieve the desired magnification every time.
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Folks ain't got a sense of humor no more. They don't laugh they just get sore.
Need to follow the rules. Just hard to determine which set of rules to follow Now the rules have changed again. |
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mj52
Optics GrassHopper Joined: October/19/2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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A more specific question regarding 600 yards.
I use a good 300 yard zero and then hold over 3 mildots at 10X and I'm doing okay. The pit marks my hit and target reappears. Lets say I'm 12" low at 6 o'clock. Using the above info can anyone give me a good beginning to dialing in. I don't have the luxury of being able to take the time to methodically figure it out. If I can simply get to using my crosshairs I can figure the rest out. It's making that big crude step from 3 mildots over to my crosshairs that worries me. 1/8" / click at 100, 300 yard zero using 3 mildots over 10X 12" low at 6 o'clock. If I ever got the chance I'd just start at 300, back up to 400, then 500 and finally 600. But as of yet I'm neither a member nor had the opportunity to step through it. Thanks mj52
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DCAMM94
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: April/19/2008 Location: Fort Worth Status: Offline Points: 3491 |
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Get one of these:
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Although personally I am quite content with existing explosives, I feel we must not stand in the path of improvement. -Winston Churchill
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3_tens
Optics Jedi Master Joined: January/08/2007 Location: Oklahoma Status: Offline Points: 7853 |
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If You are not willing to do the math you would have been better off with a BCD rather than a Mil-dot. The Mil-dot will give you the angular distance along one side of a triangle. Then you calculate the missing side. Then in your case you then convert the MIL of deflection to MOA. for your turret. A Mil-dot scope is much easier to operate if it also has MIL turrets. Get the Mil -Dot Master It does a good job of teaching the mechanics of the system.
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Folks ain't got a sense of humor no more. They don't laugh they just get sore.
Need to follow the rules. Just hard to determine which set of rules to follow Now the rules have changed again. |
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ccoker
Optics Master Joined: February/13/2008 Location: Austin, TX Status: Offline Points: 2041 |
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Well,
I would suggest you run your load, BC of bullet, weight, FPS and local environmentals through a ballistics calc this is a good one: http://www.trijicon.com/resources/downloads/ballisticscomputer.xls you can plug in your 300 yard zero and then see in say 50 yard increments the mil corrections. that would be the easiest thing to do, and make a cheat cheat taped to your gun. |
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budperm
Optics Retard show me your sheep!! Joined: January/01/2009 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 31710 |
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I think the one thing your not taking into effect is the Ballistic curve of your bullet. if the bullet were perfectly flat shooting then you could leave the scope at 10X and it would be a straight mil-dot count versus distance to target. Your changing magnification with distance which changes the actual elevation correction per mil-dot. That will be compounded by the bullet drop which also changes over distance.
If you know the ballistic curve or drop of your round then you can make a cheat sheet for amount of bullet drop at each distance from your zero distance. say you zeroed at 200 yds. 100 would be so many inches high, 300yds say would be 3 low, 400yds could be 8" low and 500yds could be 16" low... due to increased drop at distance as the bullet looses steam. Since you are dealing with multiple variables the easiest solution is a cheat sheet.
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