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Question on Scope Internal |
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penguin6
Optics Apprentice Joined: October/03/2010 Status: Offline Points: 209 |
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Posted: September/03/2011 at 12:40 |
My basic understanding of the internals of a scope is that there are mechanisms inside that put pressure against a tube, thus allowing your point of aim to be adjusted when the knobs are turned, and that exactly how this is accomplished varies depending on the manufacturer and the line. Is that basically accurate? The question stems from a recent mishap that threw my zero off. I picked a bad spot to place my rifle in the dark, butt down leaned against what I thought was a forked spot on a tree, and it slipped off and landed on hard dirt. Nothing broke, but the point of impact shifted about 5 moa to the left. It rezeroed without a problem and has held zero fine since, but I wondered if a shift of that magnitude is expected/reasonable from a relatively short fall. It was the Nitrex TR2, which conventional wisdom says is the same as the Weaver Super Slam. Anybody know what type of mechanism is on the inside, and how it compares to others? I realize the basic answer to this problem is not to do stupid things to a scope, but I'd like to minimize the consequences of mishaps like this in the future. Is there a manufacturer/line that has more rugged mechanisms that may be more forgiving of rough handling?
I assume the mounting system would also play a role. This one's in Burris Zee rings (steel, lapped) that are torqued to Burris specs, base and rings, on an EGW Picatinny base. They're steel and seem pretty solid.
I don't need to be able to bounce it off a wall like Rogers does with his Aimpoints or throw it across a parking lot like the US Optics guys, but I'd like things to stay relatively put unless I fall out of a tree or something.
Suggestions and especially education would be greatly appreciated.
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billyburl2
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: January/08/2009 Location: Cottonwood, AZ Status: Offline Points: 4015 |
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I have no knowledge of your particular scope. As a matter of fact, the only piece of gear we have in common is the EGW base. And BTW, it is aluminum, either 6061 for the regular base or 7075 for the HD. But that doesn't mean its not tough, they have a pretty good reputation for a good reason. Where i would look, is the connection between the rings and the base. Burris Zee rings are pretty good,( I used rung Signature Zee's) but I noticed that every once in while my POI would shift. After checking, and re-checking everything, I noticed that the front ring was not grabbing the base very well. I switched to Badgers, and the problem is solved.
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If it is tourist season, why can't we shoot them?
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EAGLE
Optics Journeyman Joined: August/08/2011 Status: Offline Points: 346 |
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Sounds like the rings weren’t seated properly, when it fell they adjusted some and when you retighten them all is well. Some other things you can check for before buying new rings are: Make sure the screws in the mount aren’t too long (bottoming out). Also make sure the mount doesn’t need to be bedded (JB weld works best) and down below is a link on what to look for and how to. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoW5bHQqgis&feature=youtu.beEAGLE
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SVT_Tactical
MODERATOR Chief Sackscratch Joined: December/17/2009 Location: NorthCackalacky Status: Offline Points: 31233 |
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I had a nitrex and it is a nice scope, my guess is what others have already said, the rings
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penguin6
Optics Apprentice Joined: October/03/2010 Status: Offline Points: 209 |
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Thanks, guys. All good info. Sounds like the consensus is it's probably a ring/base issue. Now that I've settled things in the hard way, I'll re-torque things and re-zero again. The base was bedded to the barrel by the guy who built the rifle, so I'm going to work on the assumption that he did all that correctly unless there are further problems.
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