Visit the SWFA.com site to check out our current specials. |
Newbie Hunting Questions |
Post Reply |
Author | |
Byu_Au_Hunter
Optics GrassHopper Joined: September/27/2009 Location: Idaho Status: Offline Points: 23 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: August/14/2011 at 19:52 |
I mistakenly posted this in the Riflescopes forum. I've copied it to here. Thanks!
I'm bound to get run off for asking too many questions. As I mentioned in my previous "newbie" posts, my drew a good muley unit in Idaho (Unit 44) and we're very new to big game hunting. In general season close to home we often hunt within 1-2 miles of some sort of navigable road. We've never packed in to camp. Because she drew a great unit our normal hunting scenario is changing and it's led to lots of questions. I have enough questions to fill a novel but here's a few... 1. It's a great unit so she'll hopefully score a decent size buck. If that's the case we'd like to cape it for a shoulder mount. I've googled and youtubed the hell out of it and haven't found any tutorials I thought were well done. Anyone have any videos/tutorials for caping they'd mind pointing me to? There's a guy I recently trained how to detect for gold whose a taxidermist. I'll likely be able to pick his brain but would like a decent tutorial to read/watch if possible. 2. We'll quite possibly be a few miles deep. The only deer we've harvested in our 2 year experience was a small 3x3 that was a mostly downhill drag about 1/2 mile to the truck. Since I'll be caping it anyway I'm thinking boning it out in the field may be a good option? Any good tutorials/advice for that? Would it be better to just finish skinning the bottom half then quarter it? Assuming we debone or quarter it...how many game bags does that take? I've heard the cheaper bags are preferred as they circulate air a little better than the thick reusables? 3. Assuming I debone it what do you prefer to pack it out with? I have a pack frame for hiking but if I stuff it in there it won't get much circulation. My normal hunting pack is a cheap remington internal frame pack. A $45 special. I realize these sound like stupid questions but to a beginner it's valid. Thanks guys! |
|
300S&W
Optics God Joined: January/27/2008 Location: Burlington,WV Status: Offline Points: 10592 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
It's a really good idea to connect with the taxidermist who'll be doing your mount.
Here's a "decent" deboning video. Except that he left the "sweet bread" in the rib cage.
I haven't used my packs in yrs but they're Freighters w/moose bags. Honestly don't know if they're still available BUT there are probably more modern options anyways.
|
|
"I ain't got time to bleed!"
|
|
Bitterroot Bulls
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: May/07/2009 Location: Montana Status: Offline Points: 3416 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I also suggest following the advice of your taxidermist.
Here are a few hints, though: 1. Get one of these: http://www.havalon.com/xt60-edge.html 2. The cape is pretty much half of the deer. start by cutting from back to belly around and up to where you started. Many people make the mistake of not taking enough of the hide. 3. Definitely bone out the deer if you will be going any sort of distance. I don't remove the entrails any more. Watch this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2E4PCzDRkUA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL The boneless method works great for deer too. 4. Use the washable-type quarter bags like those from Remington and Allen. http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-Quartering-Bags-Pack/dp/B000AU3KJ8 Two bags should hold a boned out muley. These game bags are light enough, don't use anything lighter or cheaper. 5. Pack it in whatever pack will hold the weight. Just pack it out and get it cooled as soon as you can. Most external frame packers will do fine. If you have the money, Eberlestock Just One Series packs are awesome. http://www.eberlestock.com/J34 Just One.htm 6. Post a pic of that big mulie on the OT after the hunt. |
|
-Matt
|
|
Thundey
Optics Apprentice Joined: August/14/2011 Location: Idaho Status: Offline Points: 130 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Bitterroot Bulls did a pretty good job of summing things up, But I'll throw in a little additional perspective.
I like to pack these in on my pack. These are slightly flexible, but seem to hold weight well. http://mushroombaskets.blogspot.com/ Not sure where else to direct you in finding some. I have bunch that I've had for the better part of 20years and still work well. I've used them to pack out deboned game, morels, huckleberries, all kinds of things. I use them in conjunction with a pack frame that is very similar to the one in this link. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Alaskan-Guide174-Model-Frame/747129.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dpack%2Bframe%26x%3D0%26y%3D0%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt=pack+frame&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products The mushroom baskets are stackable(spelling?) and allow the meat to breath. Or circulate air better. Also the cheap game bags are usually better, the one thing you might want to take into consideration is a game bag with openings that are small enough to keep flies out if you think there might be some around at that time. No one likes flies on there game. I also made some of my own extra straps that I throw in.(never have too many straps for attaching stuff) If you go this route model up a loaded pack and see how it works before you get there with a critter down and have issues. If you don't have any either order some or go to a military surplus store and get some parachute cord. It's not very heavy and can be very useful. I also attach a fanny style pack to the upper portion of my pack frame that houses things like first aid, water, maps, fire starting items(usually in snack bags to keep them dry). I won't bore you with too many details about all that as I'm sure you've got an idea what to take. Also the fanny pack AKA "day pack "is great to carry with you when you're away from "camp" and don't want to lug around a noisy pack frame. An extra pair of socks or too is a good idea, as well as a couple of under-armor style shirts. I would also recommend getting some decent wool pants/bibs. Columbia seems pretty decent so far IMHO. And this can't be stated enough, get some good boots if you don't already own a pair. I have Danner grouse http://www.cabelas.com/product/Danner174-834-Grouse-Boots/721525.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Ddanner%2Bgrouse%26x%3D0%26y%3D0%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt=danner+grouse&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products Which are good boots, at least for me. Not exrta heavy and provide more than ample traction. However if you wear them around on concrete the soles won't last all that long. I packed out a six point bull elk from about 5 miles in using this setup last year and it worked well. I started my journey out at around 9 am. (after quartering and dressing etc) and finished with my last trip around 6 p.m. I would transfer about 100lbs at a time about 1/4 mile, then offload and return to load the pack and do successive trips until I reached the truck. I think I walked about 35 miles that day total. (gps said 27, but that's not taking into account that you walk farther on a hillside than flat land) |
|
Byu_Au_Hunter
Optics GrassHopper Joined: September/27/2009 Location: Idaho Status: Offline Points: 23 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks for the advice guys. Very, very helpful. I'm thinking maybe I'll just hunt with my hiking pack frame. It's not as comfy as my internal frame pack but I'm thinking if I don't bring it along I'll just have to hike back and pick up the external frame hiking backpack and bring it back to the deer. Might as well bring it with if I think I'm gonna bone it out...
|
|
Bitterroot Bulls
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: May/07/2009 Location: Montana Status: Offline Points: 3416 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
That is the beauty of the Eberlestock Just One. Day pack when you want, meat hauler when you need it. |
|
-Matt
|
|
jonoMT
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: November/13/2008 Location: Montana Status: Offline Points: 4853 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Another option if you're concerned about money or just like the look is a Euro-mount. That is, just have the skull professionally cleaned and mounted. That's a lot less and you don't have to worry about caping. Regardless, make sure you reach as far up into the neck as you can and cut the windpipe out. Even if you're deboning, it keeps the meat around it from going rancid. Deboning will take a while, especially the first time.
Two game bags will do it. But they're cheap and light. No reason not to have 3-4. I like to have extras because I throw the best cuts into one bag and scraps into another. Also, you can get bags hanging in the trees faster to cool off the meat. Do one side of the animal with two bags and hang them while doing the others. I haven't checked out the aforementioned video but two I learned from were Outdoor Edge's elk deboning video and one put out by the Colorado DOW called "Down to the Bone." Overall, it wasn't quite as thorough as the OE vid, but I picked up one great tip, which is to get a couple of lamb skinner knives. They're inexpensive and are sharp but have a dull point so you don't poke through the hide but just separate it. I've more recently took to using a vegetable-chopping knife called a mezzaluna, which looks similar to an Alaskan ulu but no sharp points (at least on the one I have). It's ergonomic and comes with a protective sheath. |
|
Reaction time is a factor...
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |