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REDUCE BRIGHTNESS OF ILLUMINATED RETICLES

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RifleDude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RifleDude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/27/2009 at 17:06

I think any color lit reticle will contrast well with any color spot light even when the spot light and reticle are the same color.  I've used red lit reticles against a red spotlight before and had no troubles picking up the reticle.  The reason is twofold... 1- when a colored light is shined at something of a different color, its hue changes, but it doesn't totally take on the color of the light, and 2- the reticle and the target being viewed under the light have contrasting brightness level.

Regardless, the human eye is more sensitive to green and yellow wavelengths than red, so green and yellow appears brighter than red does.  It is for this reason that Trijicon and other tritium sight manufacturers recommend green or yellow colored night sights over other colors for defensive pistols (in addition to the fact that green and yellow tritium lamps last longer and therefore have a longer warranty).  I have amber reticles in my 2 Accupoints, and I can tell you that they contrast very well against any background in any light condition.  I have also tried the green reticle, and found that it has as good or better visibility than the amber in all conditions, even against predominantly green backgrounds such as foliage. 
Ted


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ccoker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/27/2009 at 17:23
I have had ACOGS and Accupoints in all colors
my latest is the 1-4 with a green dot in a German #4 reticle
it's my fave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ti-force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/29/2009 at 13:49

 Would anyone, by chance, have a Hawke Endurance 30 that they can get their hands on? I think any Hawke scope that has an illuminated reticle will work. I feel like the battery holders will probably be very similar, if not exactly the same for all Hawke scopes. Of course, I could be wrong, but I’ve searched everywhere online and can’t find any pictures.

 If you can get your hands on one, would it be possible for you to take a couple of pics of the battery holder and inside the cap? Maybe one with the battery in the holder and one with the battery removed. I need these so I can get an idea of how to build this resistor sandwich. I ordered the Endurance 30, but it may not be here for a couple of weeks (out of stock)Sad.

Thanks,

Casey

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KarlHaemmerlein Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/29/2009 at 14:14
Hi Casey, did you get the pictures I sent you over on candlepowerforums?  Between the various red dot scopes and the two lit reticle scopes I have, there surely has not really been any difference in the battery compartments, they all tightly hold a cr2032 leaving no room for any real difference. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ti-force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/29/2009 at 14:56
Originally posted by KarlHaemmerlein KarlHaemmerlein wrote:

Hi Casey, did you get the pictures I sent you over on candlepowerforums?  Between the various red dot scopes and the two lit reticle scopes I have, there surely has not really been any difference in the battery compartments, they all tightly hold a cr2032 leaving no room for any real difference. 
 
 

 Yeah, I got them. Nice scope, by the way. I kept looking for an Endurance 30 battery holder picture and I finally found one. There does seem to be a difference between the Endurance 30 and your U.S. Optics. Here’s a picture, of what I believe is an Endurance 30, if I’m wrong, someone please correct me:

 
 

 

 
 
 
 
Here’s your SN-3:
 

 
 On your SN-3, I believe you would not only need a thinner battery, but a battery with a smaller diameter as well, probably a 1616 battery. It looks like the SN-3 would be more involved. I’m also concerned that different brand scopes, could possibly have different brightness levels, and therefore, could need different variations of resistance to acquire the desired brightness. It would be trial and error for sure. I’m pretty sure it can be done though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ti-force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/29/2009 at 16:32
 From a different angle:
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ti-force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/29/2009 at 18:02
 The resistors came in today. Fast shipping!!
 
 
Here's a picture that shows just how small these resistors are. Haha... I'll have to break the magnifying glass out just to read the numbers on them.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ti-force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/01/2009 at 21:50

 Okay, this is an update to give you an idea of what the resistor sandwich will look like. This is a cut-away of the resistor sandwich that I made with Photochop. The battery size has been changed from 2016 to 1616 because the inside of the scopes battery holder makes a positive contact with the battery, therefore, I will have to use a nylon spacer, and put the smaller diameter battery inside of the spacer to isolate it from the wall of the scopes battery holder. I’ve also ran into a problem getting the exact size washers and spacers required for this sandwich build. I’ll talk more about this tomorrow, because it’s getting late. Just remember that this drawing is a cut-away. The nylon disc between the bottom contact disc and the top contact disc, is to isolate the resistor/resistors, as well as, the copper wires going to and from the resistor/resistors. The nylon disc will have channels cut in it so the resistor/resistors will sit in the middle of the disc, likewise, channels will be cut for the path of the copper wires. The top and bottom contact discs will most likely be made of copper.

 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budperm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2009 at 07:57
Looks nice, I see nothing wrong with the design.  Nice thing about it is it's totally reversible.
 
With the resistors you ordered, you should most likely need only one to accomplish your objective.  Note that the 1616 battery is only half the capacity of the 2016 and about 1/5th the capacity of the 2032.  You will gain some battery life from adding the resistor but I think you will eat a lot of the 1616s.   You might want to consider building a resistor disc the thickness of the difference between the 2032 and 2016.
 
I would place the resistor disc between the scope Negative contact and the battery.  this would protect the disc from all but compression stress and aleviate any torsional stress created while screwing the batery cap on and off.  It will also be easier to change batteries.
 
The whole disc could be made with just 30AWG wirewrap wire, the resistor and a couple of pieces of mylar sheet.  Cut two mylar circles 1-2mm smaller than diameter of the 2032.  strip off about 2" of insulation from some 30AWG wirewrap wire.  (WW wire is non-stranded solid tinned copper)  bend the wire into a flat coil to act as the batt contact.  The coil should be approxiamately the size of the negfative scope contact.  Center this coil on one of the mylar circles.  Punch a small hole just big enough to feed the WW wire thru.  Do this twice so that you have two mylar circles with coiled wire contacts centered on them and the wires going thru to the other side.  Solder the wires to the resistor and pancake everything together like a cookie.  You should be able to build this easily within the thickness of 2032 minus 2016.  Again I would place this under the battery not on top.  Once you have tested it and are happy with the intensity (resistor value selected) I would put a small spot of RTV in the middle of the sandwhich to secure the wires and resistor.  Screwing everything together in the scope to dry will force the disc to the correct thickness.  Just be sure not to add to much RTV or it will squeeze out into scope.  Again this is totaly reversible.


Edited by budperm - September/02/2009 at 08:04
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ti-force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2009 at 19:20
 Bud,
 
You're the MAN!! You're also an electronics geniusExcellent.
 
 
 
 
Something along these lines?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ti-force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2009 at 19:23
 Well, I guess that wouldn't really be a positive contact plate in the drawing. I guess I've been looking at batteries too much lately haha...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budperm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/03/2009 at 06:51
Good picture Ti, thats exactly what I am thinking of!  I was thinking that it would probably be best if when you are ready to glue everything together to not completely tighten the battery cap.  Leave it maybe 3/4 to one turn from tight so that you will get good contact after the RTV is cured.  The nice thing about RTV is that it is rubbery when cured and compresses without crushing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ti-force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/04/2009 at 10:58

 This is a small update, but I’m trying to keep everyone informed about what’s going on. The Hawke should be here Tuesday of next week (the guys in brown are getting a much deserved break on Monday). If all goes as planned, I’ll try to take some pictures of the different levels (settings) of brightness the scope has. If I’m not mistaken, the scope has 10 levels of brightness. To keep things simple, I will probably only take pictures of the lowest setting, middle setting and the highest setting.

 I also ordered some Mylar sheets today. They should be here, either Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. When they arrive I can start on the resistor sandwichBucky.

 As a side note, I will also try to take some pictures of the scope, like the box, packaging and everything else. If I can refrain from opening and unwrapping everything before I fetch the camera, I’ll take the pics as I open the box, so you can get an idea of exactly how everything is packaged. I’ll post these in the review section, not really as a review, but as eye candy. I’ve looked online and I can’t find much variety in the pictures that are available to view, so these will be for anyone who’s interested in seeing different views of this scope.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KarlHaemmerlein Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/05/2009 at 08:27
I'm really looking forward to your results.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/05/2009 at 09:02

Coffee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budperm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/05/2009 at 10:12
Mikey you sure are drinking a lot of coffee this morning!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/05/2009 at 13:02
Originally posted by budperm budperm wrote:

Mikey you sure are drinking a lot of coffee this morning!
 

Long week!!  Big Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ti-force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/06/2009 at 10:18
Originally posted by KarlHaemmerlein KarlHaemmerlein wrote:

I'm really looking forward to your results.
 
 
 Just to clear things up about my previous statement, (about the resistor sandwich build being more involved for your scope) this new design, (with the battery on top of the resistor sandwich) eliminates any problems. This resistor sandwich should work in any scope that's powered by (1) 2032 battery. Like I said though, if brightness varies between different manufacturers, the results of the resistor sandwich will most likely vary as well. The fix wouldn't be hard though. The fix, would be to make a new sandwich, using the resistor value required.
 
 
Casey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ti-force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/08/2009 at 21:16

 Okay, here are the pics of the illuminated reticle. These were difficult to take haha… These pics are with the 2032 battery and no resistor sandwich. I purchased a brand new, in the pack 2032 for these pics. I also have a brand new 2016 for the resistor sandwich pics. I’m trying to keep this comparison as equal and fair as possible. These pics were taken in my bathroom with no light.

 I’m also considering taking some outdoor pics with my flashlight (with a red filter). I think that would give a more realistic view through the scope, although, I’m not sure what I would aim the scope at. I wish I had one of those deer targets that people use to practice archery. If I decide to take outdoor shots, I’ll wait until I finish the resistor sandwich, so the outdoor lighting (moonlight) will be the same for the 2032 and the 2016 resistor sandwich shots.
 
 
 
 
 

 

 



Edited by ti-force - September/08/2009 at 21:39
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KarlHaemmerlein Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/09/2009 at 05:23

Taking a decent picture through a scope is very difficult when mounted on a rifle, not all that easy when it is not mounted either.  What camera were you using and the settings?  Are you overexposed some, or when looking through the scope with your eye is the light actually that bright on the highest setting?  This is about the best I could get of mine with my canon s2, I could not get the camera lined up with the scope in any position so this is the best I could get.  I had the objective cap on so I had a nice consistent background for the pic.  This is slightly underexposed, it looks much brighter than this in person, highest rheostat setting.  The fuzziness and curved lines are the result of not being able to get the camera lined up with the scope.

f2.7 1/8 sec iso 100
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