Visit the SWFA.com site to check out our current specials. |
glass bedding price? |
Post Reply |
Author | |
anweis
Optics Master Joined: January/29/2006 Status: Offline Points: 1148 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: September/21/2008 at 09:32 |
What should i expect to pay for glass bedding a rifle?
|
|
tahqua
MODERATOR Have You Driven A Ford Lately? Joined: March/27/2006 Location: Michigan, USA Status: Offline Points: 9042 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
cyborg
Optics God Gaseous Clay Joined: August/24/2007 Location: North Georgia Status: Offline Points: 12288 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Like anything else it is going to be dependent upon how many decent gunsmiths are in that area. The more that offer that service the less expensive (to an extent) the work that can be had.
|
|
With Freedom comes great responsibility, you cannot have one without the other
An armed public are citizens. A disarmed public are subjects. OATH KEEPER #8233 Support us, and join our cause. Cyborg |
|
Roy Finn
MODERATOR Steiner Junkie Joined: April/05/2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4856 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Wood stocked or synthetic???
|
|
anweis
Optics Master Joined: January/29/2006 Status: Offline Points: 1148 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Wood stock, light barrel. I had to decide whether to free float the barell or to fully bed it.
I found a smith who will do a good pillar bedding for $160. I suppose that is about the right price.
Thanks
|
|
RifleDude
MODERATOR EVIL OPPRESSOR Joined: October/13/2006 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 16337 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
$160 is a fairly reasonable charge for a pillar bedding job, provided the person doing the work knows how to do a proper, stress-free pillar bed.
|
|
Ted
Money can't buy happiness... but it's much more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle. |
|
anweis
Optics Master Joined: January/29/2006 Status: Offline Points: 1148 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The smith and is the only one within my driving distance, but he smokes like a chimney.
I am afraid that he will stink up my rifle and case. What do you think?
Maybe i should mail it somewhere?
|
|
Bigdaddy0381
MODERATOR Georgia peach Joined: February/27/2007 Location: Georgia Status: Offline Points: 13682 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
$140.00. This is for a pillar bedding job.
|
|
P&Z Firearms , Pro gun cleanings and gun repair and wood refinishing.
Ecclesiastes 10:2 |
|
Sgt. D
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: February/20/2008 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 4525 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I know how you feel, one item from that enviroment can be a stink bomb in the house.
But!
If you trust his work then pick up a cheap gun sock and when he is done trash the sock. Then give the gun a take down clean and you should be good to go. Good Luck! Edited by Sgt. D - September/24/2008 at 09:19 |
|
Take care of Soldiers, Show em how its done and do it with em, Run to the Fight & and hold your ground! I die my men go home! If you're a NCO and this ain't you. GET OUT! GOD BLESS AMERICA!
|
|
lucznik
Optics Master Joined: November/27/2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1436 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Or you could just do it yourself for around $30 - $40.
|
|
What if the hokey pokey really is what it's all about?
|
|
sakomato
Optics Master Joined: February/28/2008 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1166 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'm with lucznik. I bed the recoil lug and chamber area on my own guns and free float the barrel.
I'll post some pics but you guys have to promise not to badmouth my shadetree mechanic results.
I usually use the green box Acraglas and use Birchwood Casey gun stock wax as a release agent
This was a rebarrel to 338RUM in an HS Precision stock. The first thing is to remove the old bedding
then take the new barrel and see where it is hitting in the stock, you can see that the first place it is hitting is just forward of the chamber area
I found the best way to remove stock material, whether wood or synthetic, is with a Dremel tool and a coarse sanding wheel
it will make some dust so cover your bench with an old sheet. Keep putting the stock in and taking off material, including down in the recoil lug recess, until the barrel and action are only hitting behind the recoil lug and rearward
go slow and pay special attention to getting an even gap around the barrel
It is necessary to create a small gap on the front surface of the recoil lug in order to facilitate easier removal and reinsertion. I use 2 layers of masking tape
coat all surface that may come into contact with the bedding compound that you do not want it to stick to with the release agent, even the action screw and top edges and sides of the stock
Then mix the bedding compound. I usually mix too much but that is better than not having enough. This time I decided to use MarineTex since I had heard that it worked well. I put 2 packets of black dye in it (all that I had) but it still only turned it a light grey. Put the estimated amount in front of the recoil lug area and fill up the recoil lug recess about 1/2 full
Insert the stock and tighten the action screws and let sit 24 hours. Even after doing a dozen of these it is always a relief when the barrel and stock separate the next day. If you turn the rifle upside down and stick the plastic end of a screwdriver down through the mag well to the bolt and give it a good rap it will separate (if you got enough release agent spread around and didn't miss any areas ).
This action was pillar bedded so I torque the action screw down to 60#'s and I'm good to go.
Next time I'm going back to Acraglas though, it is easier to work with than MarineTex.
|
|
Guns only have 2 enemies, rust and politicians
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |