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Sighting in a scope

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bagger View Drop Down
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    Posted: April/13/2008 at 22:05

Questions on sighting a scope am I at the right place.

Thanks
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Roy Finn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roy Finn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/13/2008 at 22:21

Well you will proably get more hits here, but the shooting thead would proably be best.

 
Roy
 
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Edited by Roy Finn - April/13/2008 at 22:22
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bagger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/13/2008 at 22:27
I'll ask the question.
Alway shot open sight now I'm going for longer distance. Is it best to sight the scope in on the lowest power or does it matter.
 
Thanks for any help
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roy Finn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/13/2008 at 22:35
Personally I don't think it matters, however I usually set my variables at their highest setting. I don't think there is a point of impact shift with the variables made today like scopes made in the past suffered from.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sgt. D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/13/2008 at 23:24
You may likely receive a number of methods for a successful zero. I will out-line the method I use and you can choose the method that suits you.
Before leaving the house check everything on the rifle for alignment and that all screws are loc-ed tite. If you have a sturdy shooting bench thats great. If not try to put something together as best as you can, because if your rest isn't sturdy you'll burn alot of rounds and leave frustrated. Once you have a good bench you will need either some sand bags or if you can buy or borrow a shooting rest(ie. ledsled) do that. I have used a bag of corn to check for zero but thats not as good as sand. If you can manage some where to shoot
100 yds. I recommend it, because it is more realistic for most senerioes. Now set your target good and secure so the wind don't drive you crazy. I'll take for granted your knowledge of a good bullet stop behind the target. Then set your bench at the 100 yd. spot. Now wether using bags or a rest have something to strap the rifle down reasonably secure to the bench. Rubber bungi cords work good because you will need to be able to adjust the rifle to the target. As for the target all you need is a 20x20 blank card with a 1in. square or dot in the center. Take the bolt out of the rifle and sight through the bore and adjust until you have the target dot as well centered in the bore as you can. Now adjust the scope until the cross hair is on the dot. Spend as much time as you need because a good start helps for a good finish. Once you are satisified that the scope and bore are as close as you can get them, carefully slide the bolt in and chamber a round. Using the best shooting form you know hold dead center and squeeze one out. If you feel good about your form and shot you can go to the next step. If you think you messed up remember where that round hit or if you can't see it go mark it and send another one down.

Presuming you are good with the first round, adjust the rifle so that the cross hair is on the dot. The rifle needs to be good and stable so it doesn't move while you adjust the windage and elevation. Now if you want dead zero at 100 your are ready but if you want to be 1in. +/- at 100 then make a one inch horizontal line under the bullet hole at that measure with a standard black marker. Back to the rifle, It works best to have a friend help but with practice you can do it yourself. While sighting the rifle on the dot *don't let the rifle move but don't fight it either* have your friend dial the windage first if needed to the hole going one click past and back to the hole. Then if needed dial the elevation to the hole or the line you made. Using this method I have sighted countless rifles with two rounds. It took me a lot of words to out-line a simple way to zero. The thing I like is a couple rounds to zero and I have the rest to check the rifles grouping. The whole reason for bore sighting is to get you on paper so you can fine tune the zero. With a bolt rifle you really don't need a bore sight. If this method works for you, I will be pleased to have helped a fellow rifleman. I look forward to other ways being posted that you may prefer. Happy Shooting!   Sharp%20Shooter

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sgt. D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/13/2008 at 23:30
I usually sight on the high end for being able to see shot placement. And like Roy said the newer scopes are pretty reliable for holding throught the power range. Hope I didn't misread your question. Bucky
Take care of Soldiers, Show em how its done and do it with em, Run to the Fight & and hold your ground! I die my men go home! If you're a NCO and this ain't you. GET OUT! GOD BLESS AMERICA!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roy Finn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/13/2008 at 23:51
Sgt D's outline is very well stated and will work. The other option is to have your rifle bore sighted prior to range work. I have my own bore sighter cause they are kind of inexpensive, but any decent rifle shop/store can due this for you. The other option is to sight your rifle in closer, say at 50yrds, as Sgt D stated the main purpose is to get you on the paper with as little rounds downrange as possible. Without knowing what type of rifle you are using and the mounts, I think you should be off to a good start with the info supplied.
 
Roy


Edited by Roy Finn - April/13/2008 at 23:51
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cheaptrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 04:05
Originally posted by Sgt. D Sgt. D wrote:

Before leaving the house check everything on the rifle for alignment and that all screws are loc-ed tite.
 
Do you mean make sure all screws are tightened, or are you promoting the use of the product "Loc-tite"?
 
I would only Loc-Tite the base screws, not the ring cap screws. And I would only use BLUE Loc-Tite for that.


Edited by cheaptrick - April/14/2008 at 04:05
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sgt. D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 08:24
Good point Cheaptrick:
 
Trying to keep from being so wordy, I didn't think to be specific to the mounting or base screws. I would not want to suggest anyone loc the ring cap screws.
Thanks for catching that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PappaBear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 14:21
I have been very surprised how often I have been on paper without boresighting.  However, they are very cheap, and/or the good guys at Cabellas or your local gun shop  will usually do it.  Especially if you bought your  gun from them. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cheaptrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 14:53
I use the "PMBS" method that Sgt. D described.
(Poor Mans Bore Sighter) Bucky  Wink
 
The bungi cords are a neat idea. Never thought of that.
Thanks!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bagger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 18:16
Thanks for the help.
Just a little more information.
I purchased a Nikon 4 X 16 X 42 mounting on a flattop AR. I picked up a 20" Rock River upper at the gun show last weekend (they call it a coyote barrel). I got a set of Burris Xtreme Tactical rings for mounts. Had to give up the peep sights. My eyes are so bad I can't get a good look through the barrel to do a dry run. I'll head out to the range and waste some ammo. That's more fun anyway.
 
Once I get scope level with the rifle should I tighten the rings down even from front to rear to keep the scope from twisting off center. Maybe a torque setting?
 
Once I get it zero for 100 yrds. would it be best to pull the adj. knobs and reset for zero. The Monarch is a Mil-Dot, Side Focus so I have several things I'm learning at once. Got a Mil-Dot master with the scope, ranging seems fairly simple with the card. Just need to figure out bullet drops for 200 + yrds.
 
Thanks Again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pyro6999 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 20:10
Originally posted by Roy Finn Roy Finn wrote:

Personally I don't think it matters, however I usually set my variables at their highest setting. I don't think there is a point of impact shift with the variables made today like scopes made in the past suffered from.
i do that too roy im with you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bagger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 20:17
Why is 6.5 better than 6.8
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pyro6999 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 20:38
bullet selection sectional density ballistic coef, oh yeah i almost forgot, cause i say so!
They call me "Boots"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bagger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 21:02
Doesn't it take the 6.5 longer to stabilize, but I've read that it has a straighter trajectory over the long haul.
 
I have another lower I'm building and that was one of the rounds I was looking at.
 
Trying to learn something from someone who has shot both.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pyro6999 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 21:04
my reference is for hunting and its actually stuff like the 6.5x.284 and .260 and .264 win mag being better than a .270 win im not really talking about the 6.5 grendel or 6.5 creedmoor vs the 6.8spc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bagger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 21:11
I see, I would like to start hunting again, it's hard around here. Maybe one day I'll get out to West Texas or Panhandle for some of those little Prairie Dogs. I'm stuck to target for now, shot a lot of handgun .45 now I'm wanting to go for distance with the AR platform.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mercenary1947 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/14/2008 at 23:21
 As stated on the others ..... good info .... but I would consider one of the new laser bore sighting kits if I were you also. It will pay for itself down the line if you plan on owning more than one rifle or scope . Then you'll see how popular you become like I did a couple of years ago .... LOL ... Sharp%20Shooter  seems alot of your shooting buddies will want you to bore sight switches of hardware ..... pain in the butt ..... should charge them a buck to slow down their wants . Everytime we go to the range .... here they come .... switching multiple times right there sometimes .... saves ammo for those few first shots and ammo is going sky high anymore !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sgt. D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/15/2008 at 09:02
Good point merceanary1947,
 
If you were going to sight more than a couple rifles in a day, a bore sight would save some time.
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